Never even heard of anything like that, I think i have sold close to 300 sets of them and not one complaint??? send me a pic when you get a chance please.

I never did contact you Marcus but I did post on this thread way back in October of 2011. I used to use the user name ShortCourseOnly.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9845232-post9752.html

I think I should get a new 91092 Inner Slipper Hub bushing. In retrospect I should have called AE maybe.

Tom


Been using heavy duty pad for front drive & Ae Vts for rear drive.

Do have to clean , after many packs (30) or for big events.


Just so you know.

So you like that set-up? Are you using 4 pad VTS as you recommended to me?

used both, been able to compare and know the extra pad really helps smooth out the handling .

last past month been using 3, switching back to 4...

quiz: find a truck

lol. I was pretty amazed how well the outerwears filter kept things keep and let air in as well, you may find that useful

Yeah, Outwears have very useful things, but very expensive in my country. :/
I have AE over tray, but in this kind of weather is useless, esc is very hot after short run.

about to commence building a fresh ft kit for my summer assault on the outdoor tracks out here on the east coast.

any info on the lower front servo mount and feedback?

No info from me but I plan to do the modification myself. It looks simple really just need to dremel off the X on the lower assembly and position the FT Servo mounts from a B4/T4/SC10 and drill the holes and counter sink.

I am also planning an assault on the outdoor season with my SC10 4x4. I am going as far as I have to on this chassis to make it really run. The video's of Max Flurer show that the truck can fly if you have it set-up well.

So the photo above is Kinwalds SC10 4x4 at the Short Course Showdown. Notice the following:

1) Dual Shorty packs
2) Revised servo mount using B4 brackets
3) carbon fiber frame for stiffening.
4) No middle belt tunnel
5) Motor fan
6) a bunch of weight forward

I am planning to mod my Sc10 4x4 nearly as much but in a different way. I plan to push this chassis as close to 50/50 weight balance as possible while keeping the overall weight as low as possible. Mind you that I am starting with a stock kit with NovaK Ballistic 550 4.5t motor. I plan to install a fan and run tall gears on the motor.

So the photo above is Kinwalds SC10 4x4 at the Short Course Showdown. Notice the following:

1) Dual Shorty packs
2) Revised servo mount using B4 brackets
3) carbon fiber frame for stiffening.
4) No middle belt tunnel
5) Motor fan
6) a bunch of weight forward

I am planning to mod my Sc10 4x4 nearly as much but in a different way. I plan to push this chassis as close to 50/50 weight balance as possible while keeping the overall weight as low as possible. Mind you that I am starting with a stock kit with NovaK Ballistic 550 4.5t motor. I plan to install a fan and run tall gears on the motor.[/QUOTE]

Hope to see some pics soon

Tore my truck down to last screw last night. I bought one used, got a good price so i can sink plenty of $ in it and upgrade it to how i like it.

Anyway, i noticed the diffs and the interior of the case is all full of the diff grease. It really bogged down the rotation of the drive line. So is there anyway to keep the diff grease contained in the diff? or did they use to much and it bleeds out all over the place?

Thanks, Krom.

Hope to see some pics soon[/QUOTE]

I do plan to post photos and results. I cannot start the work until July so it will be a while cause I am in the middle of a move. So for now I can only plan what I will do.

That said, what I am planning is a sheet of carbon fiber sandwiched between the center chassis and front and rear sections. This will require milling on the interfaces so that I can insert the plate and cut everything correctly. I plan to buy a bench top drill press and a Mill adapter to cut accurately. I have always wanted these tools so why not!! I could get another chassis for the price of these tools so I must be crazy!!

Good job in tearing it down. Lots of people just run it at is, but its great to give anything you get in preassembled the full rebuild treatment.

I would say first confirm that the diffs have the the right shimming in them, AE's new standard is a 0.5mm shim under the sun gear, and NO shim between the diff outdrive cup and the diff case. Some setups people have used .4mm of shimming as well which I have heard works with that shim I mentioned that should be removed.

But if you diffs do not have this shimming, your best bet would be to email or call AE and get the right shims before doing a rebuild.

There is a nice video online on how to build the diffs. Me personally I usually run a nice bead of black grease anywhere the case will mate together or where the diff cup goes through.

I then fill the case with the applicable diff fluid, using the grease works to keep things in better than without it.

There is also a diff fluid that i have heard of that is more like grease, I think from Kyosho that stays in the diff better.

hope that info helps!