Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#4906
#4907
#4908
So I am pretty much against bashing. But I do sometimes run one of my buggies in the street to test electronics before I sell them on the forums. I never sell anything without testing it before I post the AD. So, I had this orion 6.5 laying around and i was never going to race with it. So i put it in my b4 and mounted old bald racing tires and went out to the street. Well after a couple of light passes in the street, I wanted to make sure it didnt act up at full speed. Sp I settup for a full speed run with a 6.5 and 24/78 gearing..... The damn front tire hit a pebble and immediatly flipped upside down onto the towers and it slid for like 30 feet on the towers..... I was supper pissed because I figured i just trashed my shock caps. But I only managed to shave the tower down about and 1/8-1/4 inch. So if you ever want to shave a little weight and dont have a dremel, you can use this method to shave off the tips of your towers. grrrrrr. next time I will test stuff in my short bus truck........
I managed to destroy 2 wings, scratch a motor, ruin towers like you did, break an arm on a mailbox, and rip off the front of the bumper from just a few runs on the street.
Ha, no more street driving for me.


#4909
#4910
Actually... Unless your diff is already way too tight or way too loose.. You should never. E adjusting a ball diff for handling... It's the wrong way to tune!!!
Let's say for example your diff is set at the "absolute ideal" setting. Then you go to a really high grip track like indoor clay running full slicks or cactus classic sugared track style... Then you might want to tighten your diff about a 1/16th at most.
Since the original poster said his car is sliding out and pushing through the corners... I highly doubt he should adjust his diff unless it's super tight already or super loose(which it should be barking..or it's totally gritty and needs rebuilt.
I suggest double checking the slipper setting/ ride height first. Then check the shocks to see if they've pulled air and are rebounding a lot.
Most of the time its too hard to diagnose this stuff on the Internet... When you see it first hand at the track it's easier to say: yeah that car is jacked up! Or... The driver is the problem... Or both!!!
Let's say for example your diff is set at the "absolute ideal" setting. Then you go to a really high grip track like indoor clay running full slicks or cactus classic sugared track style... Then you might want to tighten your diff about a 1/16th at most.
Since the original poster said his car is sliding out and pushing through the corners... I highly doubt he should adjust his diff unless it's super tight already or super loose(which it should be barking..or it's totally gritty and needs rebuilt.
I suggest double checking the slipper setting/ ride height first. Then check the shocks to see if they've pulled air and are rebounding a lot.
Most of the time its too hard to diagnose this stuff on the Internet... When you see it first hand at the track it's easier to say: yeah that car is jacked up! Or... The driver is the problem... Or both!!!
#4911
lol, I didnt have my wing on. I was in the middle of working on the buggy. I always remove the wing when I solder a motor in. i gives me more room to work. It was supposed to just be a simple 2 minute test, lol. Well it was 2 minutes. Just ended in fail. I normally use my SC for this stuff, but my kid bent the rear shock shaft, so I need to fix it before driving. Thus, the only reason my b4 touched the street, lol. The car is probably fine. I didnt need the outer holes anyway, lol.
#4912
Then go to the slipper and set it. Now that your diff is right. Do the hold the rear wheel test and blip the throttle. The front end shouldn't raise up more than 3 inches. Remember to give it and few try's too get the slipper warmed up.... Unless its totally way too loose or way too tight and tries to fly up and hit you in the mouth lol.
Then you want to move onto checking chassis adjustments:
Put it on a flat surface and check your cambers and ride height!!!
I do this entire setup process before every single race day!!!
#4914
Think if your new and are just starting with the B4 ?
Leave the diff alone if it is properly adjusted as the directions instruct..
Adjusting or tuning the diff is possible but mostly for the very experienced driver ..
Leave the diff alone if it is properly adjusted as the directions instruct..
Adjusting or tuning the diff is possible but mostly for the very experienced driver ..
#4915
Test the diff in your hand to find out wear you're at!!! Put the car on the work bench, hold the spur gear with one hand and "flick" one wheel with the other. You should get about 1 to 1.5 rotations out of the tires. If it spins more than that it's a touch too loose. If they spin less than 1 full rotations it's a touch too tight. Adjust in 1/16 turns at most.
Then go to the slipper and set it. Now that your diff is right. Do the hold the rear wheel test and blip the throttle. The front end shouldn't raise up more than 3 inches. Remember to give it and few try's too get the slipper warmed up.... Unless its totally way too loose or way too tight and tries to fly up and hit you in the mouth lol.
Then you want to move onto checking chassis adjustments:
Put it on a flat surface and check your cambers and ride height!!!
I do this entire setup process before every single race day!!!
Then go to the slipper and set it. Now that your diff is right. Do the hold the rear wheel test and blip the throttle. The front end shouldn't raise up more than 3 inches. Remember to give it and few try's too get the slipper warmed up.... Unless its totally way too loose or way too tight and tries to fly up and hit you in the mouth lol.
Then you want to move onto checking chassis adjustments:
Put it on a flat surface and check your cambers and ride height!!!
I do this entire setup process before every single race day!!!
Also, like he said Venom, it is very hard to fix most of the performance issues on the web. We can point you in a direction of a few things that "might" help. But most people here will give you the standard changes for the standard issues. The biggest factor that effects the car, is you. I have seen many novice and sportsman level drivers tell me that they are pushing or its too loose in the corner. I often ask them if they mind if I drive their car or watch them drive their car. In turn, when i think I am having issues, I find a better driver than me try my car out and give me feedback. We have a few helpful TLR guys locally that dont mind driving the B4 and giving generic handling feedback. I had a kid about 6 months ago that wanted to buy a new motor and esc because he could not make a jump that everyone was making. I asked him to let me drive it and I was easily able to clear the jump. Then, I gave him a little lesson on jumping, how to downside and a few tips. I worked with him for about 10 minutes until he finished the pack and he improved. So it was not that his car could not clear the jump, he just needed some pointers on driving. Most people ignore the guy behind the wheel. So, if you are able, find a local fast guy and have him drive your car or watch you drive it and get some feedback.
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 05-07-2013 at 09:31 AM.
#4916
I quoted this for absolute truth!!! WC is 100% correct on this one!
#4917
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
From: El Mirage, AZ, USA
WHAT?? adjusting diff settings is a GREAT way to tune for all aspects (entry, mid, exit) of handling through a corner...where do you come up with some of this stuff??
If it's spinning out in the corners, how will "lowering the car , stiffer springs, carbon arms." help at all??
I personally don't think the OP posted enough info to give him an accurate diagnosis/solution.
But I'm still baffled by some of your logic WC. Usually you seem to post pretty good info, but the last couple weeks your post's are rather strange lol
If it's spinning out in the corners, how will "lowering the car , stiffer springs, carbon arms." help at all??
I personally don't think the OP posted enough info to give him an accurate diagnosis/solution.
But I'm still baffled by some of your logic WC. Usually you seem to post pretty good info, but the last couple weeks your post's are rather strange lol
Hey if it makes you faster and you win cool.
I know the experts dont go for that first... Lets assume the diff is set perfect but it is still pushing. Tires, camber link locations, springs, spring hieght, tire toe are all the correct approach first before you get near touching the diff.
Im not saying what you said is wrong because if you win cool but if you take that approach your gonna be so far from center but believe what you like.
#4918
I think what Turbo is arguing is that the diff is a tuning feature of the car, whether it's a ball diff or gear diff. Given that, making any adjustments have a reaction and opposite reaction on the handling of the car. You're either going to get more of something, or less. Simply stating that the diff shouldn't be adjusted ever is false, given the right situation.
Personally, I don't touch the diff much at all, however I have before in the past when I feel the rest of the setup is about as good as it's going to get, and I don't want to adjust other things because I know I'll loose something I don't want to give up.
Diff adjustment is a helpful feature in some cases. The key is knowing when to use it to your advantage.
X, in a real race car, diffs can take hours to complete adjustments with. I know from experience. Your argument is invalid in this case.
Off-topic, we now know what kind of driver WC is.
Personally, I don't touch the diff much at all, however I have before in the past when I feel the rest of the setup is about as good as it's going to get, and I don't want to adjust other things because I know I'll loose something I don't want to give up.
Diff adjustment is a helpful feature in some cases. The key is knowing when to use it to your advantage.
X, in a real race car, diffs can take hours to complete adjustments with. I know from experience. Your argument is invalid in this case.
Off-topic, we now know what kind of driver WC is.



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