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Old 02-23-2014, 07:04 PM
  #12406  
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Don't forget RPM ball cups stock ones break
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcracing View Post
Don't forget RPM ball cups stock ones break
So standard to switch them out I forgot
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:54 AM
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While most people will swear by them, I find RPM cups wear out and become too loose too quickly, and while they may not break, some of them tend to pop off. This is why I changed all my hardware to TLR Cups and studs all around. They are much more precise than any other cups in the industry (same as the Kyosho I believe) and are extremely durable. They take a long time to develop any sort of slop and only then through repeated abuse. That is what I do on all my cars.
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:07 AM
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Just picked up a 4.2. Been away from RC for over 10 years and recently broke out the old XXX buggy and T3.

The 4.2 is setup with 1.6 pistons and front white and rear green springs. Our local track is an outdoor clay track with some fairly big jumps. Surface smooth to choppy that gets dusty (sandy) as it breaks down.

Can someone point me to a good starting setup? I'm a club hack until I get all my skills back meaning I'm not the best at hitting the down ramps of the jumps. The setups I see on RC10.com are almost all indoor high-bite.

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2014, 07:08 AM
  #12410  
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Just picked up a 4.2. Been away from RC for over 10 years and recently broke out the old XXX buggy and T3.

The 4.2 is setup with 1.6 pistons and front white and rear green springs. Our local track is an outdoor clay track with some fairly big jumps. Surface smooth to choppy that gets dusty (sandy) as it breaks down.

Can someone point me to a good starting setup? I'm a club hack until I get all my skills back meaning I'm not the best at hitting the down ramps of the jumps. The setups I see on RC10.com are almost all indoor high-bite.

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
Just picked up a 4.2. Been away from RC for over 10 years and recently broke out the old XXX buggy and T3.

The 4.2 is setup with 1.6 pistons and front white and rear green springs. Our local track is an outdoor clay track with some fairly big jumps. Surface smooth to choppy that gets dusty (sandy) as it breaks down.

Can someone point me to a good starting setup? I'm a club hack until I get all my skills back meaning I'm not the best at hitting the down ramps of the jumps. The setups I see on RC10.com are almost all indoor high-bite.

Thanks
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...dRC10B4.1.html
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
Just picked up a 4.2. Been away from RC for over 10 years and recently broke out the old XXX buggy and T3.

The 4.2 is setup with 1.6 pistons and front white and rear green springs. Our local track is an outdoor clay track with some fairly big jumps. Surface smooth to choppy that gets dusty (sandy) as it breaks down.

Can someone point me to a good starting setup? I'm a club hack until I get all my skills back meaning I'm not the best at hitting the down ramps of the jumps. The setups I see on RC10.com are almost all indoor high-bite.

Thanks
I would put "standard" setup from the Ray Munday setup chart.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...hart201401.pdf

This chart is worth printing out and putting in your toolbox, or saving to your smartphone. It is spot on.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:47 AM
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JeepnMike

That link leads to the 4.1 version. Do the same setups work between the 4.1 and the 4.2? I thought the 4.2 was unique with the new 12mm shocks.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
JeepnMike

That link leads to the 4.1 version. Do the same setups work between the 4.1 and the 4.2? I thought the 4.2 was unique with the new 12mm shocks.
Just use the chart I sent. It is made by a very, very knowledgeable racer and team driver for AE. That standard setup should be a VERY good starting setup for you.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:22 AM
  #12415  
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1967

I didn't understand the chart at first, I thought the standard seyup was the kit setup, not his evolved standard!

That's quite the chart, I can see why you'd just use it as a reference as track conditions change. Means a bunch of changes to what came in the mail. That's OK, I'd rather start at a known point and learn to drive from there.

When he states oil weight that's referenced to Lucas silicone, right?
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
When he states oil weight that's referenced to Lucas silicone, right?
He is using the Team Associated shock oil, available just about everywhere.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...k-Oil-30wt-2oz
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
JeepnMike

That link leads to the 4.1 version. Do the same setups work between the 4.1 and the 4.2? I thought the 4.2 was unique with the new 12mm shocks.
Sorry, 4.2 here as well as any other car really, this is the mecca for setups:

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sheet.php
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:21 AM
  #12418  
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Originally Posted by 1967Typhoon View Post
He is using the Team Associated shock oil, available just about everywhere.
Yup, I thought that was a Lucas product, my bad.

thanks
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by clw View Post
Yup, I thought that was a Lucas product, my bad.

thanks
The AE oils have the Lucas Oil logos on the bottle. I'm not 100% sure of the connection there but either way, its all the same oil
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:25 AM
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