Ugh I'm hoping this one lasts longer than my last rebuild... I had to press down on both washers while pressing on the outdrive to get the pin in, but it made a worlds difference when I got both the shims on both ends.

thanks for the info everyone i'm gonna pick up the long ones to.i got an order going in and i would like the parts on hand for testing got to find out what works best.

So had a pretty hard crash after bashing the other day hit a ramp at full speed to see if my truck can fly.....it can lol. Landings not so much
I bent both my rear shock tower 12mm ballstuds with 7mm of shim so badly it was fun unscrewing them out. My exotek hubs on the other hand nothing wrong with them what so ever unscrewed the 10mm ball studs on exoteks still perfectly straight. Guess that aluminum can take abuse.

I like these Associated 12mm TiNi ball studs. Kinda expensive but are lighter weight and tougher than stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballstud-Set-2

Some people are using wider washer material to help support the longer ball stud with the 7mm length. There is a lot of force on that ball stud so if you used normal AE blue washers and have hard hits they will bend.

So at the Cactus Classic we saw Kinwald's set-up using a carbon fiber plate which seems to hold the two 3.7v packs in but could they also be providing rigidity to the chassis? Also Greg Hodapp had some carbon fiber plates on his Teckno chassis as well that looked like for rigidity. I am thinking that there is something there. Do you think that there is a lot of benefit to add structural rigidity to the base chassis? I am running twin Shortly packs so I don't have a lot of room for this but would like to get some ideas on what to do. Anyone have ideas or even pics?

Dang, that was a hard crash. Im on my second sc10 4x4 and have never seen that after a ton of ridiculous crashes. Are you running the FT top brace? Where you running with no body on it? I never run my trucks on the street though.

I just bought the sc10 and already had to change ecu. My fault I think. I am wondering if I can use a 65c continues and 130 max c bust battery. I am using the xp digital 1200-bl ecu and ready 550 motor

Normally the higher C rating the better. The ESC would only fry if you over current it which is dependant on the draw of the motor. This can happen if you are running the stock RTR kit very hard full throttle on grass or other high load surface. You may want to reduce the size of the pinion gear. If you changed the ESC what new one did you get? I would recommend an 8th scale system ESC that can run well on 2S.

Holdapp

Those graphite pieces on the sides of his Tekno ?

Said they are for cover to help prevent parachuting ....

It's the stock ecu.

I don't want to wreck any thing. Here we have no stores to help us.

A 65c pack is fine for any esc. Worry more about gearing and heat

No graphite pieces on his sc10 4x4.

No graphite pieces on his sc10 4x4. As shown a couple pages back.