5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
03-26-2013 | 05:36 PM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
This is a great idea for those that don't want the front cover. I tried running with no front cover for a race or two but found that the belt started to come off at times and upon closer inspection I found that the front guide pulley flexes easily without the cover in place so I put it back on.
No belt cover
Helps it look like boss.
:cool
03-26-2013 | 05:46 PM
03-26-2013 | 07:23 PM
you still in Fargo?
on a 5.5 I would think you would want to be in the 13 - 15 range .
Kv if what I am looking at is right is about 3700Kv .
I see now, you are wanting gearing recommendation for the Motodome lol. Not sure on specifics, but you probably would want a range anyway.
Hoping to go myself to at least the heats on saturday.
As for a gear brand, I ran stuff from AE, novak, and I think even a traxxas, no issues.
on a 5.5 I would think you would want to be in the 13 - 15 range .
Kv if what I am looking at is right is about 3700Kv .
I see now, you are wanting gearing recommendation for the Motodome lol. Not sure on specifics, but you probably would want a range anyway.
Hoping to go myself to at least the heats on saturday.
As for a gear brand, I ran stuff from AE, novak, and I think even a traxxas, no issues.
03-26-2013 | 08:30 PM
you still in Fargo?
on a 5.5 I would think you would want to be in the 13 - 15 range .
Kv if what I am looking at is right is about 3700Kv .
I see now, you are wanting gearing recommendation for the Motodome lol. Not sure on specifics, but you probably would want a range anyway.
Hoping to go myself to at least the heats on saturday.
As for a gear brand, I ran stuff from AE, novak, and I think even a traxxas, no issues.
on a 5.5 I would think you would want to be in the 13 - 15 range .
Kv if what I am looking at is right is about 3700Kv .
I see now, you are wanting gearing recommendation for the Motodome lol. Not sure on specifics, but you probably would want a range anyway.
Hoping to go myself to at least the heats on saturday.
As for a gear brand, I ran stuff from AE, novak, and I think even a traxxas, no issues.
03-26-2013 | 10:15 PM
I stumbled on some of my calculations from last summer when I was doing my competitive survey of other trucks. What was striking was how balanced F/R every other truck was than the AE. And that got me thinking...I think it's been misinterpreted that the rear springs are too soft and are useless. Not so. The problem is they are not well matched to the fronts in the same colors.
If somebody absolutely can't stand their truck with the front springs in the rear, I would suggest running the front with greens ( blue rears) or whites (yellow rears). There is a pretty big window on how stiff/soft a combo one driver might like over another.
IMO when somebody says "I like this spring over that spring because this spring is more progressive" I think it's because one of those springs is measurable softer or stiffer, and the driver doesn't either have time or know how to measure it themselves. I say this with great restraint because there is no such thing as a progressive spring.
(If I'm wrong on the progressive spring thing, than every college physics text on the planet is also wrong. I used to believe the lie too. Reading it didn't prove it - but the results in the lab don't lie).
When I change springs anymore I change all four as a set. If I need to make a change at one end (I need the front to bite harder, or the truck to square up more off the corner) I change the sway bar.
If somebody absolutely can't stand their truck with the front springs in the rear, I would suggest running the front with greens ( blue rears) or whites (yellow rears). There is a pretty big window on how stiff/soft a combo one driver might like over another.
IMO when somebody says "I like this spring over that spring because this spring is more progressive" I think it's because one of those springs is measurable softer or stiffer, and the driver doesn't either have time or know how to measure it themselves. I say this with great restraint because there is no such thing as a progressive spring.
(If I'm wrong on the progressive spring thing, than every college physics text on the planet is also wrong. I used to believe the lie too. Reading it didn't prove it - but the results in the lab don't lie).
When I change springs anymore I change all four as a set. If I need to make a change at one end (I need the front to bite harder, or the truck to square up more off the corner) I change the sway bar.
03-27-2013 | 01:07 AM
http://tweakstation.wordpress.com/20...p-and-results/
here is some info. and my setup at the 2ed qual. for the 3rd qual i went to the outside hole on the rear arm.
here is some info. and my setup at the 2ed qual. for the 3rd qual i went to the outside hole on the rear arm.
Your truck looked absolutely bolted man. Great driving too. Were you running any up travel or down trave llimiters on the shocks, and what was the ride height F/R?
Thanks for sharing your setup,
Ken Swanson
03-27-2013 | 03:29 AM
This is something Anthony Honstain put together inbetween rounds.
http://tweakstation.wordpress.com/20...p-and-results/
03-27-2013 | 05:32 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 444
From: Sioux City, Iowa
Looks like I might be picking up a factory team sc10 4x4 for $125. I'm going to cannibalize the shocks and other factory team exclusive hardware. Put them on my sc10 4x4 with just rebuilt diffs making it a factory team but saving me the trouble of rebuilding unknown diffs. Also having to switch my rpm arms and exotek chassis/hub and other upgrades lol. Plus now I have a complete spare trucks.
03-27-2013 | 07:03 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
Looks like I might be picking up a factory team sc10 4x4 for $125. I'm going to cannibalize the shocks and other factory team exclusive hardware. Put them on my sc10 4x4 with just rebuilt diffs making it a factory team but saving me the trouble of rebuilding unknown diffs. Also having to switch my rpm arms and exotek chassis/hub and other upgrades lol. Plus now I have a complete spare trucks.
LMK if that deal doesn't work out (I saw the thread).
03-27-2013 | 07:53 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
Anyways, the deal I got on my new roller was ridiculous... Absurd even.. I had to buy it!
SC10 FT 4x4 Roller
Exotek Chassis (no scratches, looks brand new)
Saddle pack Exotek battery straps
Exotek thumb screws
FT blue screws for the shock pins
Spektrum 6020 servo
new hyperion swift 30c 6000mah saddle pack
a bunch of NIP spare parts
175$... seriously... I love this site. Dont get me started on the other deal I got for parts for it! hahaha I love that ppl hate these things, or are too lazy to learn to drive them.
03-27-2013 | 07:59 AM
Likewise lol! I'm getting rid of my b44 though for a Cougar Cat k1... but my LHS is running a special on the b44.2 trying to rebuild the class so I'm torn.. 340 NIB!!! :O:O:O
Anyways, the deal I got on my new roller was ridiculous... Absurd even.. I had to buy it!
SC10 FT 4x4 Roller
Exotek Chassis (no scratches, looks brand new)
Saddle pack Exotek battery straps
Exotek thumb screws
FT blue screws for the shock pins
Spektrum 6020 servo
new hyperion swift 30c 6000mah saddle pack
a bunch of NIP spare parts
175$... seriously... I love this site. Dont get me started on the other deal I got for parts for it! hahaha I love that ppl hate these things, or are too lazy to learn to drive them.
Anyways, the deal I got on my new roller was ridiculous... Absurd even.. I had to buy it!
SC10 FT 4x4 Roller
Exotek Chassis (no scratches, looks brand new)
Saddle pack Exotek battery straps
Exotek thumb screws
FT blue screws for the shock pins
Spektrum 6020 servo
new hyperion swift 30c 6000mah saddle pack
a bunch of NIP spare parts
175$... seriously... I love this site. Dont get me started on the other deal I got for parts for it! hahaha I love that ppl hate these things, or are too lazy to learn to drive them.