I dialed drag brake out and went faster.... drag brake is not for me. Never liked it even back in the brushed days but I was trying to learn to use it.

And for the record, I don't use a lot of brake. My epa is at 80 and my ESC is in the 70% range. I was worried I was using the brakes too often and playing it too safe. I guess that's a better way to describe it

I am new to racing and am struggling to use my brake effectively. I'm overshooting hairpin apexes and am inconsistent about how much I overshoot. I'm sure I don't have brakes mastered. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "after adjusting the brake"? Do you mean just adjusting the max brake? Using / not using drag braker? Other?

I've been playing with drag brake lately and it is helpful, but I know I'm not where I want to be. With a heavier drag brake, I feel like, in the slow corners, I steer with my trigger. It doesn't feel bad, just different.

I tried to play with the epa on throttle and it made things weird. Does the epa on the brakes work well? And my viper brakes are at 80% and I am thinking of going lower. Probably 60-70%.

I set my car up to barely lock up on the fastest portion of the track (usually the end of the straight). I also run a bit of negative expo on the brake only, and I have the initial brake on the ESC set very low.

Remember that it's almost always faster to brake before the turn. Once you start trying to brake in a turn, you've already missed the apex.

I set the brake on esc to where when I hit the brakes the tires will not lock up. That way if I give it to much brake during a turn the rear end doesn't slide out. It will basically pull the front end down giving me alot of steering. Then just whip around the corner and punch it. Brake is usually set at about 60-75% on Hobbyking 35a esc and tekin 17.5.

+1 that is what I mean by setting the car up for the turn. I will play with the radios trims/dr/epa for the brake. I hate to do it on the esc, because I cant quickly do it during the practice lap. Like I said, traction is constantly changing.

Interesting... I always do it on the esc, but this make a lot of sense.

After staring at the box for quite some time, due to other cars/races taking priority, I finally started and finished the build of my .2 last week.

Yesterday was it's maiden voyage and although I got a setup I liked, I cannot for the life of me figure out why the car wants to swap ends on 180 turns.

I loosened the diff a LOT, that didn't help. I loosened the slipper, that also didn't help.

Any ideas? Braking force on the speedo is at 70%, EPA on the radio is at 80%

Did you own a 4.1 wc? If so, Are you using the same setup? Are you using drag brake? My first guess would be wrong tires/inserts. My buggy is pretty well locked in unless I have the wrong tires, then it is fun just to keep it going straight. In any case, we would;d need to see your setup or did you do the box setup?

I did own a wc, this is the same setup as I ran on that car. Same tires/wheels, etc. Drag brake was at 20, took it to 10, then to 0 and it didn't help

What tires? Are they new? Front caster blocks the right way? What springs? Weight in the chassis?

Wow, same shocks as the b4.1 also? Did you have the BB shocks? In my personal experience the BB shocks make the buggy looser than the v2's did. I am sure someone will disagree, but that was my experience on my track. If you had the BB's on the old car, then I am confused. I am sure hexes, vts and alum rack would not cause you to spin out on a 180.

Same weight I had in the 4.1 which was ballast, 1/4oz in the rear tri and 1/2oz by the rx.

Tires are multiple runs old, and i did use them on my last car. Caster blocks ARE on the right way.

Springs are black ft, white rr

Literally, same EVERYTHING. Although I do remember the last time I ran the WC, I broke the u-brace and didn't have time to shave another one. Although between those two runs it really didn't make a difference at the same track.

What battery? Raise the front ride height. I run 23F/22R, and try a green spring up front (the white springs are pretty stiff as well).

Right now, I'm at the inner hole on the front tower with no washers. I'm on the inner hole in the rear as well, with 1mm washers on a shaved u-brace. I'm running the C hubs with the link as long as possible as well.