hey i have some question? i have the 2wd and just got this. since i got the 2wd hooked up at my main tracks i go to can i try those setup for this also. second is ty tessmen setup for real i know he run hotbodies cause i followo his set up for those cars lol and they never to far off my tracks. Second what is this clutch basket thing i was reading this thread and man there like a bunch of version of it. so im really confused i think the extoke is the newsest and best version of this from what i read doing my build now just got to get the rx and tran in this thing then wait till may. i will be running at two out door tracks. one is lose black dirt which is made for 1/10. the second is a large clay with some dust but it does grove up which is made for 1/8 scale track. im thinking try out the ty setup his track at that time kinda looks like mine but with smaaller jumps

Yup, the bumper after time flexes so much that it gets backed up, and eventually tucks under the hood of the body. It's just hard for some of the blind Ae purists to accept.

2wd. set ups don't really transfer to 4wd..way different..didn't seem to work for me anyways..

Don't try to apply other vehicles setups to the sc10 4x4, it is a Unique Whip! The box stock setup works pretty well in a variety of situations so start there then tweak from there. The correct tires will be crucial for where you run, see what the fast guys are running.

Cherry, the 6mm at hub worked well yesterday. The m2c toe block was dialed with low roll center and 3.5 deg toe. My truck was making the 3 other sc10 4x4 's look silly! There was another know it all there that was talking like a expert tuner/driver. His truck was so loose and his driving was terrible. I enjoyed lapping him twice in about 4min lol. He was running a scx4.5 and he said he couldn't clear the tripple no matter what and then I was watchig him full throttle the first jump and land on the face of the tripple then punch it and jump nose up in to a crash every lap lol. I told him to take the single slow then rail the tripple. All he said is I can't clear it. Then I watched him crash about 20 more times ignoring what I said.

I love this hobby!

Can't wait to switch and compare trucks ....

Not this week end , but maybe the next after ...
We are racing at BRCR this Saturday at the N/w Shoot Out .
Try to come by , even better join the fun ...

ok what about this extoke slipper is it needed for a large out door track to look down the one side or not. it might just be testing and finding out what works for you i guess.

I find all that is really needed is the exotek front lockout and vts slipper. I'm on pretty large 1/8 track. Oh yeah, sway bars!!. Check out Max Fleuer's setup for 2012 Psycho Nitro Blast might be a good place to start - worked for me.

ok sound good and im guessing your talking about version 4 of the vts slipper. i got sway bars already came with the used truck. im gonna pick up that new upgraded package comes with the saddle pack and the brace and the v4 vts slipper i think it $60 so i think it worth it. Somehow i missed max setup i watched a video trying to find out which was like my track for like all the set up took a long time too.

Hello,

I have bought a sc10 4x4 but now I search the best gearing

I driva with a traxxas motoro 3500kv and I search the best gearing to drive on a competition track,

Hi Gang,

New parts just came in




Happy Racing

start with a 14 or 15 pinion / 62 spur

Those are needed - the only parts I ever broke on this chassis is the spring bucket. But I only broke one. I guess I broke a sway bar end link once too.

Thinking back on this chassis, if I was to start over again I think I'd only change a couple of things right off the bat and really nothing else:

Slipper - the VTS is a huge upgrade over stock, but IMO it isn't as good as the OG Mac The Knife basket. It is good enough, particularly when combined with the garolite pads. I am a big fan of the Exotech front hub/inner slipper eliminator/whatever it is, but it does cost the truck some rotation getting into the corner. And because it doesn't slip the front but does allow the rear some, it takes the load off the rear idler.

Springs - IMO throw the long rears away right out of the box. My sedan uses the same springs on all four corners, there isn't a good reason to do otherwise on this chassis.

Motor selection - WAY MORE IMPORTANT on this chassis than on any other 4x because you need to balance weight against how much power you need in your local conditions. The Reedy 550 is a safe choice because its like 40 grams lighter than the next lightest 550 motor. I'm a big fan of my Hobbywing 4000kv four pole (same weight). The Tekin might be the best one.

So, in retrospect, were talking about $30 in parts and picking the right motor.

They are supposed to plant my 800 walnut trees this afternoon, hopefully I can start racing again here soon.

Shoot now I have to buy the Exotek spring perch set to complete my shocks. I got the tops and collars already. Why do they keep doing this to me? Lol! Im a sucker for pretty blue items!

Im just curious why none of the AE team drivers are listing front springs being used on the rear. Are you doing this to lower the ride height or just for more adjustment. I just put blue fronts and blue rears on my truck and it felt pretty dialed for indoor, my FT truck is as light as possible, I bought a extra 100 pack of AE aluminim screws and titanium top shock mounts etc....

I'll try yellow fronts and blue fronts on the rear just to check it out. Now im curious.