Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#2521
I do the same thing as well to check my slipper, but if I remember correctly some users have mentioned in the past its not the best way to check your slipper with a stock motor in which I'm running. And they've mentioned to run it on a straight to test it that way. So I was just wondering what you do and look for to test it that way.
. When i built my t4.1 with a reedy 17.5 i just looked in the manual and set the slipper to how much shaft is supposed to stick out from the slipper nut i believe since i am running the regular slipper on that truck for now atleast and all the parts were new so i started with that and hevent even touched it.
#2522
adjusting a 17.5 slipper is tricky, I loosen till I can hear it slip easily & cannot clear the jump .
Then tighten 1/4 turns till I clear the jump...
try to run it as loose as possible for best performance
Then tighten 1/4 turns till I clear the jump...
try to run it as loose as possible for best performance
#2523
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 192
From: S.C.O.R.E. Savannah, GA
My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
#2524
My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
back off a 1/2 turn or so....
#2526
My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.
Is there any reason I should be concerned?
Thanks guys!
#2527
Are you running them front and rear? and with what springs?
I put togeather another pair of shocks and had some avid 2+2 pistons (1.6x1.1) and ran 32/30 oil with the pink/gold x gear springs and it felt pretty good on our fresh layout but i think it might be better with the green/white ae springs.
#2528
To anyone that think the bulldog body is ugly, I have to disagree.
Paint it a good color that you like and go with it. I painted mine gold.
Maybe it was the Bulldog body for the T4.2 they said was ugly.
Lots of people at my local tracks like to run the kit included bodies.
I'm kinda the same way. Dont buy a new one usually until my old one gets broke. And that it's usually a Jconcepts body shell.
Paint it a good color that you like and go with it. I painted mine gold.
Maybe it was the Bulldog body for the T4.2 they said was ugly.
Lots of people at my local tracks like to run the kit included bodies.
I'm kinda the same way. Dont buy a new one usually until my old one gets broke. And that it's usually a Jconcepts body shell.
#2529
GOT TORQUE BABY!!!It's the way our Viper motors are designed.... Big Big Torque. When I put the HT rotor in, it was 40-69 and needed even more... I just didn't have anything bigger than that haha.
and almost everyone here runs 36-38 / 69 depending on their motor and car. Losi guys were a tooth lower than us. When I tried 34 69 my car topped out within the first 30 foot of the straight.......right now I fluctuate between 37 and 38. 37 has me top out about 20 feet before, 38 just as I'm about to enter the sweeper. They run oval on this track on other days of the week so it's wood jumps... that means layout changes every couple weeks.
#2530
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
If I run 17.5 more in the fall, I am going to look into the smaller high rpm rotors that we have and see if I like that powerband better or worse.
#2531
17.5 lasted about 3 months here and is now dead, lol. Everyone is going back to 13.5 for the next series. I dont really understand why. The 17.5 guys were putting down the same lap times as the 13.5 guys. I am just going to run my 17.5 in the 13.5 class. I am too cheap to buy a new motor whenever people change their minds. I kinda wish everyone would go mod and just be done with it. The all this temping and gearing to the sky would end. No issues with people boosting or whatever. Heck we run on an 8th scale track. Maybe we could create jumps that dont bore the 8th scale guys, lol.
#2532
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
17.5 lasted about 3 months here and is now dead, lol. Everyone is going back to 13.5 for the next series. I dont really understand why. The 17.5 guys were putting down the same lap times as the 13.5 guys. I am just going to run my 17.5 in the 13.5 class. I am too cheap to buy a new motor whenever people change their minds. I kinda wish everyone would go mod and just be done with it. The all this temping and gearing to the sky would end. No issues with people boosting or whatever. Heck we run on an 8th scale track. Maybe we could create jumps that dont bore the 8th scale guys, lol.
#2533
Yeah, that is fun racing. We had 4 in 17.5 last week and 8 in 13.5. 4 cars on an 8th scale track is a bit boring lol. 13 should be interesting. Most normal drivers are not any faster with a mod than not a mod. Most are slower. I just get tired of all the cheater drama. Or guys running their motors 160-170 deg, just to go fast and "keep" up.
#2534
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Yeah, that is fun racing. We had 4 in 17.5 last week and 8 in 13.5. 4 cars on an 8th scale track is a bit boring lol. 13 should be interesting. Most normal drivers are not any faster with a mod than not a mod. Most are slower. I just get tired of all the cheater drama. Or guys running their motors 160-170 deg, just to go fast and "keep" up.
On that note, if anyone is thinking about coming out to PA for that, stop by and say hi.



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