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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:13 PM
  #2521  
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
I do the same thing as well to check my slipper, but if I remember correctly some users have mentioned in the past its not the best way to check your slipper with a stock motor in which I'm running. And they've mentioned to run it on a straight to test it that way. So I was just wondering what you do and look for to test it that way.
Oh gotcha, well I would check it on some carpet since carpet has a good amount of grip and just make sure it slips for 2-3 feet id say, maybe a little less. Ive heard a guy say he sets them to slip more so the slipper can slip coming out of corners and let the motor spool up faster but i haven't experimented with that and it kinda leaves me with some questions plus he kinda smelled funny .
When i built my t4.1 with a reedy 17.5 i just looked in the manual and set the slipper to how much shaft is supposed to stick out from the slipper nut i believe since i am running the regular slipper on that truck for now atleast and all the parts were new so i started with that and hevent even touched it.
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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:15 PM
  #2522  
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adjusting a 17.5 slipper is tricky, I loosen till I can hear it slip easily & cannot clear the jump .
Then tighten 1/4 turns till I clear the jump...

try to run it as loose as possible for best performance
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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:16 PM
  #2523  
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My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.

I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.

Is there any reason I should be concerned?

Thanks guys!
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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:22 PM
  #2524  
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Originally Posted by DLF
My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.

I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.

Is there any reason I should be concerned?

Thanks guys!
sounds like your tightening down the bleed screw a bit to far..


back off a 1/2 turn or so....
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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:55 PM
  #2525  
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Has anyone else used the 1.4 AE taper shock pistons? I really like them so far. Just curious.
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Old 03-07-2013 | 08:59 PM
  #2526  
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Originally Posted by DLF
My apologies if this has already been asked and/or discussed.

I seem to recall sometime back about some possible issues with the o-ring on the shock bleeder screws. I'm building the car now and when I built the first shock, I tighened the screw and the o-ring popped out. I loosened and retightened to prevent that from happening but I'm a bit concerned it may not be tight enough.

Is there any reason I should be concerned?

Thanks guys!
i hear a lot of people are running the losi copper bleeder shim, i just got and installed mine today
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Old 03-07-2013 | 09:48 PM
  #2527  
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Originally Posted by BRSracing
Has anyone else used the 1.4 AE taper shock pistons? I really like them so far. Just curious.
I just ordered a set from amain since my track is lagging and i ordered a set of the 1.6's from rcplanet.

Are you running them front and rear? and with what springs?

I put togeather another pair of shocks and had some avid 2+2 pistons (1.6x1.1) and ran 32/30 oil with the pink/gold x gear springs and it felt pretty good on our fresh layout but i think it might be better with the green/white ae springs.
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Old 03-07-2013 | 11:18 PM
  #2528  
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
To anyone that think the bulldog body is ugly, I have to disagree.
Paint it a good color that you like and go with it. I painted mine gold.
Maybe it was the Bulldog body for the T4.2 they said was ugly.
Lots of people at my local tracks like to run the kit included bodies.
I'm kinda the same way. Dont buy a new one usually until my old one gets broke. And that it's usually a Jconcepts body shell.
I like the bulldog body I ran it on both my losi before I sold it and now my 4.2 live the body and how it looks totally agree that the right paint colors make it look even better to.
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Old 03-07-2013 | 11:21 PM
  #2529  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
GOT TORQUE BABY!!!

It's the way our Viper motors are designed.... Big Big Torque. When I put the HT rotor in, it was 40-69 and needed even more... I just didn't have anything bigger than that haha.

and almost everyone here runs 36-38 / 69 depending on their motor and car. Losi guys were a tooth lower than us. When I tried 34 69 my car topped out within the first 30 foot of the straight.......right now I fluctuate between 37 and 38. 37 has me top out about 20 feet before, 38 just as I'm about to enter the sweeper. They run oval on this track on other days of the week so it's wood jumps... that means layout changes every couple weeks.
Ok cool I just never heard of that gearing. I try to keep my motor cooler and have plenty of power, but whatever works go with it. My motor doesn't even get over 130 unless I run for a long time and its hard to get it that high on a regular run time.
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Old 03-08-2013 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by trit215
Ok cool I just never heard of that gearing. I try to keep my motor cooler and have plenty of power, but whatever works go with it. My motor doesn't even get over 130 unless I run for a long time and its hard to get it that high on a regular run time.
yeah back in October I was running EA's D3.5 and I ran that motor at 35-36 / 75 and that was about where it needed to be to be fast. Each motor is unique and they have different powerbands.

If I run 17.5 more in the fall, I am going to look into the smaller high rpm rotors that we have and see if I like that powerband better or worse.
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Old 03-08-2013 | 07:05 AM
  #2531  
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17.5 lasted about 3 months here and is now dead, lol. Everyone is going back to 13.5 for the next series. I dont really understand why. The 17.5 guys were putting down the same lap times as the 13.5 guys. I am just going to run my 17.5 in the 13.5 class. I am too cheap to buy a new motor whenever people change their minds. I kinda wish everyone would go mod and just be done with it. The all this temping and gearing to the sky would end. No issues with people boosting or whatever. Heck we run on an 8th scale track. Maybe we could create jumps that dont bore the 8th scale guys, lol.
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Old 03-08-2013 | 07:15 AM
  #2532  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
17.5 lasted about 3 months here and is now dead, lol. Everyone is going back to 13.5 for the next series. I dont really understand why. The 17.5 guys were putting down the same lap times as the 13.5 guys. I am just going to run my 17.5 in the 13.5 class. I am too cheap to buy a new motor whenever people change their minds. I kinda wish everyone would go mod and just be done with it. The all this temping and gearing to the sky would end. No issues with people boosting or whatever. Heck we run on an 8th scale track. Maybe we could create jumps that dont bore the 8th scale guys, lol.
I started running 17.5 because I needed to slow down some. Too rusty to have alot of motor. I can drive a 7.5 or 8.5 and not be all over the place, but I'm not fast. 17.5 is helping me be more consistent. I originally planned on only doing it a couple weeks to prepare for Motorama but the local track had a bunch of guys start running it. Some new, some seasoned Oval guys. So now there's 10-20 guys every week and it's a battle to make the A. Last time I was there, the entire A qualified within 10-12 seconds of each other... that makes for good racing!
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Old 03-08-2013 | 07:42 AM
  #2533  
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Yeah, that is fun racing. We had 4 in 17.5 last week and 8 in 13.5. 4 cars on an 8th scale track is a bit boring lol. 13 should be interesting. Most normal drivers are not any faster with a mod than not a mod. Most are slower. I just get tired of all the cheater drama. Or guys running their motors 160-170 deg, just to go fast and "keep" up.
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Old 03-08-2013 | 08:06 AM
  #2534  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Yeah, that is fun racing. We had 4 in 17.5 last week and 8 in 13.5. 4 cars on an 8th scale track is a bit boring lol. 13 should be interesting. Most normal drivers are not any faster with a mod than not a mod. Most are slower. I just get tired of all the cheater drama. Or guys running their motors 160-170 deg, just to go fast and "keep" up.
tbh, I probably wouldn't run 17.5 on an 8th scale track. In fact, I don't plan on running 17.5 outside at all. I am hoping we have a 10th scale class locally this summer. If not, I did get a Mugen MBX6ECO. I suspect E Buggy will be huge this summer here because the 8th scale Electric Nats are less than 3 hours away this year.

On that note, if anyone is thinking about coming out to PA for that, stop by and say hi.
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Old 03-08-2013 | 08:19 AM
  #2535  
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lol, the only thing 8th scale about our track is its size. 17.5 can clear every jump easy. No long quads, no rythm sections just easy doubles.
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