Losi & AE springs chart
http://xfactoryrc.com/rc/Tech/SpringConversion.php

These links also helpfu i think
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...pes-rates.html

http://www.mikeshobbyshop.com/phpBB3...hp?f=2&t=11677

I found those to but there all 10th scale.

Aluminum lower saver half, hubs, spindles...and also dog bones as an option on the drive shafts...a pillow ball setup...titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles...aluminum screw kit...carbon towers and top braces .there's always room for hop ups that make sense but nobody is doing it...also people may be wanting aftermarket lids for clearance?

These are just off the top of my head

Oh .. i thought it can be helpfull. Sorry i just tried to help.

These are the specs for the Radiopost servo I am getting:

Model: RP3009M (Torque-Type Servo)
Voltage: 4.8V ~ 8.4V
Operating: PWM
Torque:
@ 6.0V: 333 oz in
@ 7.4V: 419 oz in
Speed:
@ 6.0V: 0.10sec/60°
@ 7.4V: 0.09sec/60°

Looking around it says the amp draw is not high.

I really like what the Viper ESC is doing, the programming is good too and the BEC goes to 7v.

I didn't consider LRP at all.

Just for you to know I have a hitec 7955tg servo now at 6volt and 333oz of
torque it will drain at 4.2 amps, at lock up stall. now your servo running it at 7volts and close to 400oz of torque you may find that the current draw
might be more than 5amps this could cause issues with bec in the viper esc call radio post and ask what the current drain is at 7.4volt when at stall lock up point I know that some hitec servos draw 5.2 amps at lock up when run at 7.4volt and over 400oz be safe check it out so you don't damage esc if you go over current specs or servo If starved for current

Thanks tho !! I did search a bunch before i post normally i can find what i need.

I could not find the xtra tough front a arms in A Main the other day

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...sion-Arm-Set-2

Going back to balance, if both sides are as even as possible with the heavier battery rather than the lighter one?

Lighter makes sense to be better for speed etc but if the servo, Rx, ESC and motor etc weight more than the lighter battery wouldn't you want it be better for jumping if it was as balanced as possible?

On another note, what you do you guys think it would take to be able to do a 20min main, battery wise?

IMO the difference is not huge. An ounce difference on the corners is never going to be felt on a 7+ pound buggy. That's less than 1% of total weight. The advantage of running a lighter battery as long as you can make run time is a much larger difference.

To make 20 minutes on 4s with 1900 tekin you will need 7000 mah or larger battery. On 6s with 1400 tekin you will need a 5000 mah battery.

Depending on track I put in between 2700-2900 with a 1900kv motor over a 10 minute run with a couple of practice laps. I would say 6400 would keep you safe for 20 minutes. That being said I have a smooth trigger finger and avoid WOT.

-Kane

Try to put activ8 speedo in this buggy yet?

I'll be using the same Kv motor. If you're only using up that much mah in a 10min main, then this should be plenty:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved
Correct? I was going to go smc, but they're outta stock and 6500mah seems overkill if my track only has 10 min mains. I've heard 35C is enough with that Kv motor and the tekno drivetrain is a lot more efficient than traditional setups. Is my reasoning sound on all of this? Already on a tight budget, don't want to spend more on e-buggy then i have to.

I've been experimenting with batteries on my setup as I want to make a 30 minute nitro main for club racing.

I'm running a 1900kv T8, 18t pinion, RX8 with no timing and no current limit on 4s.

I've hit the 25 minute mark without much loss of power using a 6500mah pack (SMC).
I've hit the 17 minute mark without much loss of power using a 5000mah/5200mah pack (Gens Ace/GForce).
Both hit my LVC a couple minutes after that, with the power dropping very noticeably at those marks.
I need to rebuild my car now, and in another couple weeks we'll have a fresh track. Once the surface is done right again I plan to get some numbers from it with traction and then see if I can hit that 30 minutes by being smooth with 2x 2s 7200mah packs (SMC).

That being said, our track is washed out now and very loose, so a bunch of throttle drift is occurring. You can see the track back when it had traction here before we let it go over the winter:

+ YouTube Video

Note: If you recognize my car...it was my 2nd race ever with an 8th scale...so yeah...I sucked. LOL