SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 67
I think a lot of it has to do with the now motor. Just like when the scte came out everyone dumped there scrt10 and sc10 4x4. Same with the new tekno, every losi pony dropped there "nothing better" scte.for the sct410. Wait till the scte 2.0 comes out you'll see the sct410's on the f/s. The pro4 are the now motor. Everyone wants one. Wait till the pro4 HD comes out the pro4 will hit the f/s. I bought my ballistic 5.5 after a basher had it over a year in a heavy scrt10. I cleansed it out and it runs like.a champ. Keeps up with the rest no problem.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 154
From: Alabaster, AL
Khshapiro I saw you mentioned turbos earlier. Does Shapiro and drag racing go together? I used to go to a lot of nmra and orsca races is there a connection there? I know the name just don't remember from where.
I recently switched from 550 can motors to a pro4 4000kv and I couldn't be happier. I started out with ballistic 5.5 550 then got a 4.5 550 and the power was good but on the small tracks I run on in the NW the weight of the 550 had a negative effect on handleing for me, pendulum effect.
My truck handled best, frankly with a 5.5 540 motor but it didn't have enough torque to jump the some of the big timing jumps that were around a year ago.
The Ballistic 550 was fine in a straight line and had enough torque to jump anything, but it over-rotated IMO without adding a ridiculous amount of weight to the front of the truck - like 8 oz. I use a plastic chassis.
The Hobbywing four pole is the first non Novak motor I ever bought.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 99
Finally got some scales to determine front/rear, left/right and cross weight ratios. L/R is pretty close already but front rear was way off. In order to get it close to 50/50 I have to put almost 8oz up front. So my question is, does the benefit of 50/50 front to back weight ratio outweigh the negative effects of adding that much mass? Curious if anyone else had a similar situation and how it worked out or whether they ended up with a compromise of less weight added and not having exactly 50/50 ratio.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 444
From: Sioux City, Iowa
I broke a rpm rear arm tonite where the hinge pin goes thru 1 of 2 holes, not sure how as I didn't hit anything too hard. Its cold outside with snow so maybe the cold made the plastic brittle.
I just noticed that my rear tires spin but my front don't and my belt seems to be slipping or at least it has no tension or pull when I hold it. Any ideas before I break it down? The belt is not stripped and it looks good, pinion and spur are meshed well. So its somewhere else in the drive train.
I just noticed that my rear tires spin but my front don't and my belt seems to be slipping or at least it has no tension or pull when I hold it. Any ideas before I break it down? The belt is not stripped and it looks good, pinion and spur are meshed well. So its somewhere else in the drive train.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 67
I am originally from the south east , and yes I have done quite a bit in nmra and scca . recently with late models GM LS series and vvt systems and the possibility of using compressed air in place of camshafts.
I broke a rpm rear arm tonite where the hinge pin goes thru 1 of 2 holes, not sure how as I didn't hit anything too hard. Its cold outside with snow so maybe the cold made the plastic brittle.
I just noticed that my rear tires spin but my front don't and my belt seems to be slipping or at least it has no tension or pull when I hold it. Any ideas before I break it down? The belt is not stripped and it looks good, pinion and spur are meshed well. So its somewhere else in the drive train.
I just noticed that my rear tires spin but my front don't and my belt seems to be slipping or at least it has no tension or pull when I hold it. Any ideas before I break it down? The belt is not stripped and it looks good, pinion and spur are meshed well. So its somewhere else in the drive train.
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 621

guys, I have been asked by the Losi guys to make a set of 17mm adaptors
so they can run the 1/8 scales buggy tires as well as the sct tires.
I think both the losi and associated run the same axle size which is 5mm on the Losi.
I am not sure that the associated is the same size and would like some
feed back from you guys on the sc10 axle size and if you are also interested
in have the same options.
these adaptors will be made to quickly change from the stock hubs to the
17mm adaptors so you can have the choices with out having to do major changes to your vehicles.
The adaptors will have a side load for the pins and a set screw to hold the pins in place as well as being able to still thread a special nut into the end
of the shaft to capture the hubs(which I haven't got made as yet.
but it will be a simple process and still use a 7mm wrench to tighten to
retainer nut.
let me know your thoughts on this.
you can pm me here on the site or
send me an email to
[email protected]
mitch
Finally got some scales to determine front/rear, left/right and cross weight ratios. L/R is pretty close already but front rear was way off. In order to get it close to 50/50 I have to put almost 8oz up front. So my question is, does the benefit of 50/50 front to back weight ratio outweigh the negative effects of adding that much mass? Curious if anyone else had a similar situation and how it worked out or whether they ended up with a compromise of less weight added and not having exactly 50/50 ratio.
http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...39;s_SC10_4x4/
Myself really like the truck with no ballast, jumps & lands better and the truck is easier to drive.
Adding ballast on the front like BK uses fits higher traction conditions very well.
So there's track conditions where ballast can help performance
Just feel on low to med grip zero weight drives great.
Adding ballast on the front like BK uses fits higher traction conditions very well.
So there's track conditions where ballast can help performance
Just feel on low to med grip zero weight drives great.
Hey cherry, I'm wondering if you have tested the ball diff yet or seen it in action, I used the exotek front locker and forward traction is significantly improved but the truck doesn't turn as tight. Could just be my setup. Just curious, because people are giving the ball diff positive reviews. Maybe I still need to tweak my rear links some more. Or go to a lighter swaybar in front.
Hey cherry, I'm wondering if you have tested the ball diff yet or seen it in action, I used the exotek front locker and forward traction is significantly improved but the truck doesn't turn as tight. Could just be my setup. Just curious, because people are giving the ball diff positive reviews. Maybe I still need to tweak my rear links some more. Or go to a lighter swaybar in front.
Helped out a couple with already.
Myself feel a slipper is far less expensive and easier to set up & adjust....
When guys with bring to me everyone was adjusted way tight offering very little performance....
I take it apart clean,adjust by adding or removing the pins...
Then it Imo at least slips a little offering decent performance.
A VTS just needs a 1/4 driver and a couple minutes to adjust and brings more traction..



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