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Old 02-18-2013 | 08:17 AM
  #32701  
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Originally Posted by peter george
Do you race with the belt exposed like that ? I once did not have the time to put everything back together and ran it like that ......nothing catastrophic happened so .....what you think?
Yes , No need for on indoor clay ...

I get a little dirt on one two clogs on the pulley's after many battery's .


I ck for and dust off...
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Old 02-18-2013 | 08:19 AM
  #32702  
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Originally Posted by peter george
I once saw a post where someone was using the old LRP Sphere ''competition'' ecs (pre-SXX) on their sc104x4. Has anyone tried it here ? And would that set up work with a 550 can Tekin 5.5 motor ? I am also gonna give my center diff another go....I had originally only four of the pins in it along with all the balls ....but up front I had 30.000 diff oil.This time around I did not have seven to go down to but found 5000 for front and 10.000 for rear. I am going to try again cause the first time out with center diff....I almost saw no true difference.After reading many of the posts regarding the center diff....I realized I needed to go down in diff oil. The track I run at is a medium size indoor clay track with tons of traction.
Is that correct that you are running 5K up front and 10K in the rear Or did you mean 10K up front and 5K in the rear? In general, 5K in the rear seems like a very popular setting. 10K isn't bad up front, though 7K or even 5K up front you may like better.

When the traction is really high, you may not see too much of a difference when set right between the center diff and a clutch basket setup like the MTK one or VTS setup. On carpet I was running 8 pins and really liked it. You may find 6 pins a good starting point.

As for that ESC, I have heard the same thing, heck, I have one of the older Sphere competitions TC spec sitting here that if anyone wants feel free to pm me.

Some recent experience by an owner here with the center diff for those curious about it:

Originally Posted by petr
Just tried the center diff at our indoor track last night and WOW....this thing is sooooo radical!!! I can't get the back to break loose without trying real hard, this thing is like a QUATTRO for an SC-10. I complemented it with the Exotech metal chassis (for the LOSIs) and TenShock 5200Kv 550 can 4-pole motor (to keep things moving), and the truck is really impressive. Marcus, thank you for putting your time and energy into this, it is a pretty ingenious solution. I already recommended this to more of my friends and will to anyone with an SC10 4WD-this mod is a no-brainer!!! I wish the truck came like this out of the box. Thank you for a Great Product.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:00 AM
  #32703  
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Peter George


Scott & I had to set-up one for a customer just the other day .
After we were done can only say the VTS performance is better and a lot easier to make adjustments...
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:08 AM
  #32704  
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Please have Scott post his own assessment. I'd be curious to hear what he has to say first hand.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:13 AM
  #32705  
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I'm really happy now with this set up esp with the smaller tires. I have another sc10 4x4 that I'm wanting to change up and do something wild with as well. Nothing a dremal and panel bond can't fix . Making new clutchs again is going to be a pain in the ass so maybe I will try the vts first.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:16 AM
  #32706  
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FT SC10 4x4 for sale
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:17 AM
  #32707  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Is that correct that you are running 5K up front and 10K in the rear Or did you mean 10K up front and 5K in the rear? In general, 5K in the rear seems like a very popular setting. 10K isn't bad up front, though 7K or even 5K up front you may like better.

When the traction is really high, you may not see too much of a difference when set right between the center diff and a clutch basket setup like the MTK one or VTS setup. On carpet I was running 8 pins and really liked it. You may find 6 pins a good starting point.

As for that ESC, I have heard the same thing, heck, I have one of the older Sphere competitions TC spec sitting here that if anyone wants feel free to pm me.

Some recent experience by an owner here with the center diff for those curious about it:
I wanted to use 7000 up front but did not have it in my pit bag. I have 10.000 and 5000 so I filled the diff with 10K but have not yet re installed the diff assembly back in the truck... Should I place that diff in rear instead by placing it in the rear diff assembly? Or should I just get the 7 K oil ? Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:26 AM
  #32708  
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I also put 8 pins now. Originally I started with only four but had no noticeable benefit. I will run the truck with new changes this coming Sunday , hope to have good news to report after then. The truck is pretty good and by far my best 4x4 sc ...I selfishly want it to be better ( wanna open a can of wool-ass ) if you know what I mean. Thanks to all who take the time to test and report.....all the info here is most helpful.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 09:27 AM
  #32709  
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Originally Posted by peter george
I wanted to use 7000 up front but did not have it in my pit bag. I have 10.000 and 5000 so I filled the diff with 10K but have not yet re installed the diff assembly back in the truck... Should I place that diff in rear instead by placing it in the rear diff assembly? Or should I just get the 7 K oil ? Thanks again for all the help.
No prob. Happy to help. You still have that mid motor PSI conversion?

I would by all means have no problem trying out 10K up front and 5K in the rear. If the truck wasn't as involved to get to the diffs with hand tools, I would have been more inclined to try a variety of diff oil settings but, for me at least 7K front and 5K rear felt great, but I like a high initial steering feeling car too, especially on the small carpet track I ran it on.

Please post the setup you are using, as well as track conditions as well.

Originally Posted by peter george
I also put 8 pins now. Originally I started with only four but had no noticeable benefit. I will run the truck with new changes this coming Sunday , hope to have good news to report after then. The truck is pretty good and by far my best 4x4 sc ...I selfishly want it to be better ( wanna open a can of wool-ass ) if you know what I mean. Thanks to all who take the time to test and report.....all the info here is most helpful.
Its amazing how much the feel changes as you add or subtract more or less pins. On carpet with stock AE tires I could pop up the front end with 8 pins. Easily punch over any jump with no run up for the jam sessions we had. I would say you may find 6 pins a better setting if you need more front end pull, but its fun to play around with, and fairly simple change relative to the benefit a center ball diff provides.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 10:30 AM
  #32710  
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looking for a good base set up for small tight dirt meduim traction track for my sc10 we use soft to super soft barcodes .its just the base kit right now im using blue springs all around 10k front 10 rear .front shocks center top outer arms,rear center top inner arm after reading the last few pages im thinking about trying the 7/5 cause as of right now im having a hard time with tight turns .
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Old 02-18-2013 | 10:42 AM
  #32711  
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A excellent set-up for indoor clay liquid G


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Ae Sc 10 4x4 Set up !!!!


Intended for Scotty Ernst Show Down next week at TRCR ...
Of interest is the lack of ballast weight being used ...

Shocks used are Ae Team edition 13mm

front
1.2 piston , Ae 32.5W oil ,yellow spring , zero internal limiter

Location Middle on tower, outside on arm
Camber location =inside on shock tower 2mm spacer under stud
zero unscrew shock eyelet
8mm external limiter, emulsion bladder
rear hole on steering rack
yellow sway bar


rear

1.2 piston , Ae 30W oil, zero internal limiter, Yellow spring, zero internal limiter, emulsion bladder

Location = middle on tower , inside on arm
Camber location = inside on tower
7mm spacers under stud, C-Hub mod..
zero unscrew shock eyelet
8mm external limiter
3+2 Toe block
Blue sway bar

saddle packs Reedy 60C
zero ballast weight
30K front diff
7K rear diff

20T pulley Front & Rear


Track Conditions
Indoor clay , med high traction , smooth

Lrp FLOW ESC
Reedy 4.5 550 Sonic, 12T pinion
Clicker locked
Ae Vts slipper
JConcept Bar Codes (Gold)

24mm ride height , 23 mm if traction is high or rolling over...

Post # 324

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-18-2013 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 10:44 AM
  #32712  
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Sphere competitions Is grate I had a first gen with a 3 star the truck was fast but the motor would over heat I used the pro4 with it and ran hot but ok with fan just as good as my mm if not better but no tuning I love motor limiter better than the rx8 but the tekin runs colder how much u won't cane
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Old 02-18-2013 | 11:19 AM
  #32713  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
A excellent set-up for indoor clay liquid G
awesome thanks
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Old 02-18-2013 | 05:41 PM
  #32714  
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Has anyone ever come up with a better solution than the blue fronts mounted in back with the spacer clips under the spring collar to take up the slack? I tried this out today only got a couple packs in but the spring collars eventually slipped over the c-clip spacers. There has to be another brand spring out there that is the proper length and spring rate.

Also just curious what type of tire wear you guys see. My fronts wear way quicker than my rears, is this normal or just due to running the exotek front locker and spinning the fronts too hard? When do you consider the tires scrap and toss em' (bald, just about bald, 25%, 50%?)

Lastly, I am running the 19t pulley up front with clicker locked down. What effect will it have running the clicker loosened up. I run on a small very tight high grip indoor track (technical) and you can never have enough off power steering so just wondering if running the clicker loose will help.
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Old 02-18-2013 | 06:53 PM
  #32715  
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anyone currently using mip's bypass system for shocks on this truck. had to go to a softer spring combo to soak up all of the bumps/ruts on a huge 1/8 track this weekend (motorama). went from the std yellow fronts/ blue fronts in rear combo with 32.5/27.5 oils. it worked okay, but wondering if there's a better system.

fyi: 3.5 degrees of toe (via strc hubs or m2c toe block is a must!).

thanks.
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