Yes those are the correct ones. And yes these work with scte wheels.

I think what it really is ,is when its turned that far the turnbuckle isn't really holding the hub from turning left or right it's more like parallel pulling on the end. I don't think with all the time invested in the design of the techno chassis's that is going to really be an issue. I doubt the force angle on the tires when its driving is the same as twisting it with yoyr hand.

Had a good run with the 410 last night finished 2nd all night behind a mugen would of took
1st in the last main but got hacked in the first turn and had to come from the back of the pack ended up taken 2nd right behind the leader.

Hoped that made sense. I banged it out real fast on my phone. LoL

EPA should not be at wheel lock for this truck. Tekno recommends to set your steering EPA as normal then back down your dual-rate some. This truck has a TON of steering and that last %3-5 won't make a difference.

It's all posted "officially" in this thread from the Tekno guys.

Thank it does except the last sentence, the inside wheel is very loose and doesn't take but a finger to wobble it that 20mm.
Try it on yours, turn off truck and turn wheel all the way and see how much it wobbles. It is like a physical point it hits before it does this and you can feel it when turning by hand and see it kind of jerk past that point. In 20 plus XRAYs and Losi trucks and buggys I've never seen this

That's what I'm hoping for. I want to make sure others trucks are same way and not my build. I've never seen a vehicle with end point so far from anything actually physically hitting something like the chub or arm

Hi, send us some pics of your setup. This has never been reported before and we're confident that the steering block bottoms on the c-hub or the wheel firmly rests on the arm at full lock. Sounds like something is amiss on your setup. Thanks.

Well thinking on getting the bad boy or the losi scte what do you guys think and as for motor recomendation what do you guys recomend and what gearing?

Thanx, I've had great luck with everything Hobbywing that I've bought. I PM'ed you on the batteries

Anybody tried,or is running limiting in there shocks,especialy the fronts?....seems like theres way too much up travel in these shocks,doesnt really seem needed for indoor clay racing..... maybe outdoor

There are limit screws on the control arms

I ordered mine Friday night after hearing nothing but positive things about it. After racing was done at the end of the night, a guy at the track let me drive his tekno and even though I already ordered it, driving one totally confirmed my decision! It was a dream to drive! I was going to wait until the losi 2.0 comes out to see how it compares to the tekno but the one thing I don't like is that the front and rear clips will be the same as the 1.0. There's just way too much slop for my taste. I'm sure it will be an awesome truck but the tekno is awesome too.

Another TQ and win at Newred Hobbies last night (high bite, small, clay indoor track 18+ sec laps).

To start, I was still running stock shock oils/springs/positions, stock diff oils, 100mm front & 120mm rear droop, 26mm front 25mm rear height, no center/rear brace, and hubs forward one thick spacer. This is the setup I used at the medium indoor track. I replaced the front tires due to excessive wear and left the slightly worn rears on.

Truck slid out through the high speed turns. The only changes I made before racing started was moving the hubs forward to two thick spacers and replacing the one race old tires in the rear with fresh tires.

The truck still slid out slightly in a high speed curve. I just applied more throttle and it pulled through every time without the rear stepping out.

I had the SSC Traxxas developer Mark hot on my heals in qualifying only 2 seconds behind. The truck was excellent all day and pushed it in the main to a sizeable lead. I think it's level jumping and controlled breaking really made the difference.

At the end of the day the front tires were toast again. It's clear a thicker oil is needed in the center diff. My question for you guys is how even do you think the front/rear tire wear should be?

I've been using the HB horn in my v4 d8 for several years of hard racing on a big outdoor track with zero problems. As Matt suggests I do have the horn level.