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Old 03-05-2014 | 11:35 AM
  #19921  
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Originally Posted by fq06
This wrench is about bullet proof... no, bomb proof.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...nbuckle-Wrench

Put some chap-stick on the threads and it will be easier to adjust.
chapstick or just run the threads across a bar of soap.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 11:36 AM
  #19922  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I have the Black Front Spring , 32w/1.3 and Rear Pink springs / 30w/1.3 . Im going to get the Green Springs . I did notice that the Pink Springs on the Rear must be a little to soft. Because on the bottom of the arms its ingraveing into them but the truck is not bottoming out the Front alum outer suspension block also. I did however use some middle hole pills on the inner block for more Anti squat .



I do have the ride height even Front and Rear its low enough for indoor but than again with the body on it may be lower. I was thinking about the HD saver spring with that very high torque servo it could be better.
Pink springs are too soft unless your running fiorini pistons IMO. Tekno pistons, green springs.

For the regular servo saver spring run it tighter than the HD... maybe 10mm? Or get the HD one.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 11:42 AM
  #19923  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Pink springs are too soft unless your running fiorini pistons IMO. Tekno pistons, green springs.

For the regular servo saver spring run it tighter than the HD... maybe 10mm? Or get the HD one.


Ok got you yea most guys at the track were not using the Pink rear springs i know why now. Yea im likely just going to get the HD spring its cheap anyways.

I have the Xray X89 pistons 1.2 and 1.3 .

But only 8 hole pistons . If i have enough cash il get the Tekno ones.

Its funny the guys i was running with the scte,s were getting mad that i was out turning there is most corners expect one pretty tight corner that i always had trouble with.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 11:49 AM
  #19924  
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Originally Posted by fq06
This wrench is about bullet proof... no, bomb proof.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...nbuckle-Wrench

Put some chap-stick on the threads and it will be easier to adjust.
Damn, wish I could have remembered that any time I ordered from A-Main. My solution was more of a "I'm sick of this sh*t, and I need something now!!"
If I had the receipt and a do-over, I would get this wrench. Thank you.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 12:07 PM
  #19925  
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Truck is near finished... Now I need to solder the motor and ESC. Great. I've soldered before. But never with RC stuff. What advice can I get from you guys? Do you mount the ESC and motor and solder it while it's on the truck? Or do you estimated how long the wire length will be and do it off the truck? I got the RX8 gen 2 and tekin HD 4300. I'm a little nervous doing this. Ha. I don't wanna mess something up
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Old 03-05-2014 | 12:39 PM
  #19926  
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Originally Posted by Racerz27
Truck is near finished... Now I need to solder the motor and ESC. Great. I've soldered before. But never with RC stuff. What advice can I get from you guys? Do you mount the ESC and motor and solder it while it's on the truck? Or do you estimated how long the wire length will be and do it off the truck? I got the RX8 gen 2 and tekin HD 4300. I'm a little nervous doing this. Ha. I don't wanna mess something up
Make the wires longer than you expect to need. Double side tape the ESC to your bench so it stays still while your working on it and solder it up.

Then you can put everything on the chassis, cut wires to length and solder to the motor tabs that are really easy to get to and easy to solder.

Search YouTube for Randy Pike and watch his video, you don't want to keep the iron on the ESC posts for more than a couple seconds. The heat can transfer to the board and start unsoldering things starting with the post and continuing to other stuff.

If you didn't get it right, give the post a minute to cool down before you try again.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 01:20 PM
  #19927  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Make the wires longer than you expect to need. Double side tape the ESC to your bench so it stays still while your working on it and solder it up.

Then you can put everything on the chassis, cut wires to length and solder to the motor tabs that are really easy to get to and easy to solder.

Search YouTube for Randy Pike and watch his video, you don't want to keep the iron on the ESC posts for more than a couple seconds. The heat can transfer to the board and start unsoldering things starting with the post and continuing to other stuff.

If you didn't get it right, give the post a minute to cool down before you try again.

Sweet thanks. I got the ESC all soldered up. Went good. Until I realized the dumb mistake I made... I had a deans plug already on a wire so all I had to do was solder it on the ESC. Didn't notice it at first, but it's 16AWG... The motor wires are 12AWG... Is this really a huge deal or can I leave it?
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Old 03-05-2014 | 01:45 PM
  #19928  
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You could probably get away with 16g in a stock buggy but no way in a amp hungry 4x SCT.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 01:46 PM
  #19929  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
chapstick or just run the threads across a bar of soap.
I found out that a thin layer of Teflon tape makes the threads buttery smooth it's non stick right?
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Old 03-05-2014 | 01:47 PM
  #19930  
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on my tracks current layout we are running 8 x1.4 tekno cnc pistons 35 32 weight oil with pink fronts and grey rears. Track is rather run look up the jconcepts 2014 winternationals and we are running 13.6 hero fast laps and low 14 to high 13 on laps.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 02:14 PM
  #19931  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Ok got you yea most guys at the track were not using the Pink rear springs i know why now. Yea im likely just going to get the HD spring its cheap anyways.

I have the Xray X89 pistons 1.2 and 1.3 .

But only 8 hole pistons . If i have enough cash il get the Tekno ones.

Its funny the guys i was running with the scte,s were getting mad that i was out turning there is most corners expect one pretty tight corner that i always had trouble with.
I liked the staggered piston setup I was running with Tekno 1.3r & 1.4f.
The xray pistons came with a couple other hole sizes right? Try what you've got.
If you want to go Tekno, I tried 1.3's and wasn't very happy with them. Bought 1.4's to use in the rear and it was much better. Used 37/35 oil with green springs.

That took $40 to get the two sizes wait...
If you don't find a good tune with the xrays, let me know and I'll mail a set of 1.3 & 1.4's to you for $15... I have two sets doing nothing in my pit box.

Last edited by fq06; 03-05-2014 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 02:57 PM
  #19932  
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Originally Posted by fq06
I liked the staggered piston setup I was running with Tekno 1.3r & 1.4f.
The xray pistons came with a couple other hole sizes right? Try what you've got.
If you want to go Tekno, I tried 1.3's and wasn't very happy with them. Bought 1.4's to use in the rear and it was much better. Used 37/35 oil with green springs.

That took $40 to get the two sizes wait...
If you don't find a good tune with the xrays, let me know and I'll mail a set of 1.3 & 1.4's to you for $15... I have two sets doing nothing in my pit box.



Yea i mean i did notice more pack with the Rear shocks with the 1.3/30w Pink springs but them springs are still to soft . The xray ones are 8x1.2 , 8x1.3, 10x1 .

How would doing something like 32w in the Rear shocks work on low grip with stiffer springs ? I know i lot of guys run 30w in the rear shocks at the tracks here .

The outdoor tracks here in the Northeast are the same most of the time its usually loose/dry/rutted/Hardpacked.
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Old 03-05-2014 | 03:12 PM
  #19933  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Yea i mean i did notice more pack with the Rear shocks with the 1.3/30w Pink springs but them springs are still to soft . The xray ones are 8x1.2 , 8x1.3, 10x1 .

How would doing something like 32w in the Rear shocks work on low grip with stiffer springs ? I know i lot of guys run 30w in the rear shocks at the tracks here .

The outdoor tracks here in the Northeast are the same most of the time its usually loose/dry/rutted/Hardpacked.
I am running the stock 10x1.2 pistons flipped emulsion style with green springs 45f 40r and it is sweet, I could probably go down to 42.5 or 40 in front and step the rear down respectively but i haven't tried it yet because its so nice right where its at
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Old 03-05-2014 | 03:31 PM
  #19934  
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So I can't get away with using 16awg for the battery to ESC? What will happen if I use that instead of 12awg?
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Old 03-05-2014 | 03:37 PM
  #19935  
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Originally Posted by Racerz27
So I can't get away with using 16awg for the battery to ESC? What will happen if I use that instead of 12awg?
Worst case scenario? The wire will overheat to the point of melting the insulation and burn your car down.

Don't skimp where it counts. There's a racer at our track who uses 10awg for battery to ESC connection. Probably a little bit of overkill, but better safe than sorry. I wouldn't use anything lighter than 12awg.
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