Man I just mucking around I do like the sc10 4x4 but it's not suited

I would agree with most all of that. This is the only rig I have ever driven for a year and didn't break one single arm. From memory the list of broken parts is very short.

Rear hinge pin holder and front bumper... that's it.

No maintenance? Every kit has maintenance if you want to be in top running condition for TQ

Personally just wanted to drive something different.

hey fq06, sent you pm.

Replied, and for others wondering...

Why so often?
I rebuilt my shocks every other day, I just like a fresh build to drive on.

You will more than likely see oil seeping out where the diff drives are for an indicator.

There will be less diff resistance when you turn one wheel as the oil has leaked out.

Won't get crunchy like a ball diff... opposite, it will feel smoother, less resistance.
Like a ball diff that's too loose.

To add to that, once you get to the point where it feels like a loose ball diff most all of the oil has seeped out and your way late on the rebuild and would have probably been faster the last couple days you drove it.

TSR orings extend rebuild frequency.

[QUOTE=Jstall7543;11804961]I still love how people come In to the sc10 4x4 thread saying the truck sucks at this or that and how much better brand x is.

Hmmm was that Mike's pro lite by any chance? He's a beast out there. His driving and tuning skills blow me away.[/QUOTE

I love telling everyone those guys were beat by a Sc10 again ...


Yes, It was Mike Browns Ae Pro-Lite setting the pace at the Sc Show Down this weekend ...

I been telling you guys straight all along bout what is fast ...

Those other's that quit ? Owell ...

I won't come in here and bash the sc10 4x4 because its a great truck. However, I had a very hard time getting it to fit my driving style so I went with another brand. It's all preference, I'd say all the current race kits are competitive if you're comfortable with your setup.

Yeah that was the prolite. It was a close race right down to the end.

Sorry was traveling. No I guess my setup is not exactly like his. I have the exotek front lockout and running the 20T (stock) setup in front. Have not tried the 19T but was told with the lockout that I don't need it.

I was going to try it and all the guys at my local track said to stick with the 20T.

I chose the SC10 4wd because I can run it on carpet or dirt.
It comes with carpet tires in the box so I will be driving 45 mins away
alot next winter season. I wanted a carpet truck and the SC10 4wd is it.
But yet not many people run the truck on a huge outdoor track.
I dont see why because I know it's competitive like the others.
We will just have to see because I plan on doing both. I put 30 wt oil in the rear
and 35 wt in the front like Cain, and Wild Cherry suggested. *Knock on Wood*

the main issue people see on large outdoor tracks are:

- If loose conditions, rear comes around on you
FIX: M2C rear toe in block at 3.5 degrees

- Air control in comparison to the 3 diff vehicles is not as precise
FIX: nothing exact, but improvements scene with RC Shox Center Diff

- Gets kick around on rough 1/8 tracks
FIX: RC Shox 2 Stage pistons, combined with proper springs To give fast action
FIX: Exotek chassis for more weight down low at the lowest point


Some of these fixes can be applied to the other areas I mentioned, but I tried to list what I saw the most benefit from as outdoors I ran on extremely loose conditions.

Hope that helps someone.

Indoors, car is a beast for sure, seems it was made for those conditions specifically.

I actually found that my truck was easier to drive hard outdoor than indoor. I changed nothing but tires from indoor to outdoor and was shocked at how hooked up it was. I have none of the options Cain mentioned(not knocking them, I just don't have them). Only option I was running was an Exotek front clutch locker. I'm also running a center stick pack mod that puts more weight on the rear so maybe that is the difference.

I don't know, I've read this thread from the start, mostly run indoors too so when a 5 race series came up on a very large outdoor track(it ran 8th and 5th scale too) I didn't have high expectations because of all the outdoor complaints. I entered 2 of the 5 races and was Q2 twice and finished 3rd twice. Only area I felt I was lacking was motor. Running a Castle 1410 and just needed a little bit more.

If I were out door's

would set-up almost as it comes RTR ..
1.2 pistons
lightest sway bars ,maybe no bar on rear
blue springs
standard kit hub
add 3oz to 4oz ballast
Ae VTS

No need to fix something that's not broke ....

True wc if this tekno ant good then back too sc10 4wd for me

Running mine stock too. I have blue springs on the front and yellows on the rear. Dont fix something that isnt broke. I have a feeling it's gonna be hooked up with the tires I have on it. Bowfighters all 4 corners.
The track is tacky when it's wet like I said before. At nighttime during the mains
were gonna have alot of traction because that's when that track is at it's best.

Running SS Enduros on mine. Yellow front spring, blue front spring on rear, yellow front bar, blue rear bar, shortest rear camber link at stock height and no belt tunnel brace(my center stick pack mod provides the brace). I finished only 5 seconds behind the 2 leading losi's after an 8 min main.