I had the same experiance with the 4.5, I have one in my scte and it's a beast, mild in the sc10. My truck has way more drag then any shaft drive I have. I swear its the diff cases or that flange they leave on the idler and diff rub if the cases are to tight. The belt drive is smooth turning with no diffs installed. I might grind the flanges off to see what it does. I tried flipping the gears and it still does it. I'll figure it out soon. I'm waisting power with all that drag.

Fixed the SC10 4wd this morning. The screws on the steering assembly
were hitting the gearbox, so removing the bottom screw and dremeling
some of the gearbox enabled me to have steering. I have 2 screws instead
of 3 holding the front pulley mechanical parts in place. The super long screws
holding the gearbox and pulley mechanical parts in place. I can put that
screw back in but I wouldnt have any steering, so I might as well leave it out.
I just made sure the other 2 screws were screwed in pretty good, and that solved my steering issue.

Suggest using the proper size screws =M3x12mm #89454 on the bottom chassis to mount front transmission.

#89223 3 x 8mm to mount Front skid plate


Use too long and the screw will bind the steering ....

"SoCal" First be sure to check out the "steering bearings" (91002) they are the 3x8x4mm bearings that are installed inside the servo saver/bellcrank..... if they are shot, then most likely it will bind up the steering and wont steer properly. 2nd check to make sure that the bellcrank hardware (91001) sits inside the bearings (91002) of the front chassie plate (91014) when you press the 2 together, and before tightening the screws.... because if there not, and sitting on top of the bearing, it will bind up... check those key tips out and im sure youll figure it out... and btw yes its much better to have the aluminum strc bellcrank upgrade... no plastic, the plastic ones break often

If you tighten the screws on the diff housing when putting it all back together. the diff case screws run thru the diff housing and into the slipper assembly. if they are tightened to tight they will rub on the on the "Slipper Hub" (91092) and it will bind, creating friction, and causing the belt to have drag in it, creating loss of power.

If it felt like a drag wouldent it feel like a drag break whale your driving? I have yet to pull my diffs apart after about 4 good race nights and still no issues. No leaks or anything. But ever since I installed the vts slipper from the factory team kit it has been starting to make noise. Does the vts just make its own sound BC before I put it in when the car was coming down the front straight the only thing I could hear was the quiet ballistic 5.5 and it ran.smoothe as glass. Even with the noise however it still ran great. Main reason I haven't wanted to pull it apart.

I could feel the friction before assembly if I put the 3 screws in the diff then squeeze together the front bumper mount holes on the diff case and turn the input shaft by hand. Something is rubbing inside and I think its the flange they leave on one side of the idler gear and the flange on the diff gear. I used digital calipers to measure screw length. My original sc10 4x4 kit felt the same way as my new FT kit. I wonder why they put that flat at the very edge of the idler gear teeth and diff teeth, this is the only truck I've seen with this and also the only truck with a drag problem. This isn't a huge issue, I just seek perfection. Zero resistances. The truck works great either way.

I don't have any steering problems. Stick to the correct screws and I have zero bind and shouldn't require grinding.

So you guys don't like the exotek hubs? I ordered the exotek hubs and steering rack and front slipper lock thingy the other night. Are the buggy hubs better? I didnt really understand the posts with all of the arguing.

Seen another metal hub , it has the standard ears like the kit's plastic hub.
The advantage would be it accepts the 8mm C hub mod perfectly.

Not sure who the company is who makes the hub.

I love my exotek hubs, steering rack and chassis.

Nice wiring job too buddy

My AE is in the FS thread, everything you would want to add to your kit and maybe more.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ng-spares.html

hahah look at fg comming to the dark side and getting a tekno lol

Me? I've had a Mugen SCT for about 6 months now. B44.2 is my new passion

how you liking that mugen i was looking at the b.44 too but dont have class here for it

Great truck for big tracks. Had it for 10+ years (mbx5 buggy)

There were a couple 4wd buggies at our track, I brought out my xxx4 and more started joining in. Got a B44.2 the week it came out.
Now there's a class... ask your rack to start promoting it and maybe it will catch on