Actually, oil pan drain plugs DO use washers, at least mine, and most I've owned. It uses an M14 aluminum crush washer. Others use things like fiber washers or rubber coated copper washers. I have one that does leak in fact, from the plug threads, slowly. I started using rubber coated washers and using my own "torque spec" because I stripped an aluminum pan out using a torque wrench and new alu crush washer as specified and now I don't trust honda's manuals at all. I had to throw a single oversized plug in there and a nylon washer. It still leaks a few drops a week.

Really depends on the threads and the case. I want nylon screws

"Think its rather important to make clear" that this is YOUR opinion...not FACT.

Either way, I'm leaving work to go pick up my B4.2 right now, so keep on keepin on rctech lol

some say they leak, some say they don't. Can't prove one or the other wrong over the web.

Posting ones personal experience doesn't mean it will be the same for everyone else.

I heard Olestra used to cause that ...

Turbo post some pics of the new towers, curious on the finish work.

My families business does literally thousands upon thousands of oil changes on honda\acura's. Using an alum. crush washer on each one. no rubber grommet, no fibers, no nothing...why? because its a CRUSH washer. not a grommet or a seal...a washer.

If you stripped it when tq'ing to factory spec....odds are it was fubared before you got to it...yes?

The factory sells each and every car this way, and assembles, and maintains them all this way....just sayin'

Will do!

The picture posted shows the leak in question ...

The oil leaking from the bleed screw is proof ...


Also have two other sets of 12mm shocks with copper seals that have stayed dry & never leak a drop ....


I can't do anymore then post pictures of and inform the results .....
Have zero intentions to be here call-n out others about ...

Good lord I hated the Lays chips with Olestra...

Ahhh..the wait is over, now the build begins!



and the front shock towers....

I just happened to have a NIB b4.1 front shock tower, so I took some crappy cell pictures of the new vs old.

New B4.2 on the left, old B4.1 on the right.
Only difference I see visually and dimensionally, is the "pad" where the upper shock mount holes are, is thicker on the B4.2.

B4.2 = .283"
vs
B4.1 = .204"

So basically B4.2 tower is the same as having a 2mm spacer on a B4.1 tower.

Nothing is shaved, or changed for added clearance, the ONLY change I see is the pad being thicker by .079 (2mm) and the pad is thicker on the inside of the tower (shock mount side)

Again, B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right.

Maybe you just didnt clean them up properly after removing washers and re-bleed? Here is a pic I just took of my son's B44.1 which has a practice day, and a full race day (with both of us driving it, in 2 different classes) and I built them with NO O-RINGS and as you can see...NO LEAKS.

All four of them are identical..I can post pics of all 4 now that I have the car in front of me.

Just because yours failed to seal, doesn't mean that they ALL are that way. Operator error is what I would chaulk this up too...but thats just me.

rear tower pics pleasors

Nope. I've done nearly every oil change on this car and used a new crush washer and torque wrench. It was good. Just an aluminum pan. Sometimes it happens. Every oil change since 30k. Car's at 111k now--single oversized plug, drip drip

I feel dumb. I forgot the c clips in the front axles so how in the world do I disassemble them to put them in? To clarify, the front knuckles have the bearings and axle installed, without the c clips. I can't figure out how to take the axle out without damaging the knuckle!

1) remove the hex
2) take out the axle pin
3) push the axle out.
4) remove the inside bearing.
5) put the bearing on the axle and push it all the way on
6) install the c clip
7) line up the c clip with the "D" shape inside the hub adn press the axle through
8) insert the axle pin and the hex