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Old 01-16-2013 | 08:15 AM
  #2491  
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Originally Posted by Dehydrated
Do I need to run the ballstud foam covers? I usually run on outdoor 1/8 size tracks. Wanted to know if it is worth replacing the damaged ones.

Cheers.
If your running dusty outdoors I would,I run indoors so my truck is spotless after I run so I don't really need to
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Old 01-16-2013 | 09:44 AM
  #2492  
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I honestly have never run them myself. I hate when they get all dingy and I just keep an eye on my ballstuds. If they EVER pop, I replace them
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Old 01-16-2013 | 09:44 AM
  #2493  
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I wish they would pop off. All I do is break studs off.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:26 AM
  #2494  
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When ever I turn my differential outdrives I opposite directions, they "click" into place. Is this normal? I think I have an MIP ball differential.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:27 AM
  #2495  
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click? That does not sound right.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:30 AM
  #2496  
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That's what I thought too. On all my other cars the differential turn smoothly.

Anyone know how to fix this?
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:34 AM
  #2497  
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Now that I feel it again, its more of a rough feeling, like turning 2 pieces of very rough sandpaper together.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:34 AM
  #2498  
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take it a part and check all of the parts.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:36 AM
  #2499  
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you might have worn out ring and/or balls. you could replace the balls and flip the rings over. Then make sure you properly break it in.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:43 AM
  #2500  
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That's what I was afraid of. I just got this car used and am going to race it, so I guess it would be best if everything was working great. I already had to disasseble a dogbone assembly because they were the ones from the FT kit and they were rusted over. Got one of those done, went to the other side to get the hex off, and there was hex wrench head stuck in the set screw. So now Im waiting on left hand drill bits for that, then Im going to ruin the set screw, then Im going to have to order a dozen differnet set screws to get on eot fit because I don't know brand hexes they are....what a mess.

At least I'll have time to take it apart.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:53 AM
  #2501  
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yep, that can happen when buying used. The rust would have been a big indicator that the truck was poorly maintained. I am preparing a truck for sale now. I spent 3 hours last night going over it. Most people do not do that, they abuse them and then dump them.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 08:10 AM
  #2502  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yep, that can happen when buying used. The rust would have been a big indicator that the truck was poorly maintained. I am preparing a truck for sale now. I spent 3 hours last night going over it. Most people do not do that, they abuse them and then dump them.
I don't mind rust- I got it off with vingear. this is the second time though that I got more than I asked for. I bought a TMAXX last year only to find it had a bum engine.

Im still happy with SC10 because it has threaded shocks and alot of other upgrades though.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 08:56 AM
  #2503  
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Originally Posted by Icero
I don't mind rust- I got it off with vingear. this is the second time though that I got more than I asked for. I bought a TMAXX last year only to find it had a bum engine.

Im still happy with SC10 because it has threaded shocks and alot of other upgrades though.
My friend got a used sc10 which supposedly had a newly rebuilt diff and it was terrible feeling.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 04:49 PM
  #2504  
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There is rebuilding a diff and there is rebuilding a diff. The phrase itself covers a pretty wide swath.
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Old 01-17-2013 | 05:31 PM
  #2505  
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I recently just put in a DuraTrax DE10 ESC and a TrakPower 8.5t motor in my SC10. Taking it to the track this weekend. So far I have to admit, I'm impressed with the amount of power the two have compared to my LRP SXX-TC and Ballistic 8.5 I had in it. So far I'm happy, I'll see how well it does this weekend during a race.
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