Presumptuous. I had an Orion VDS-1007 which is sorely missed. It's absolutely NOTHING like the Savox crap. It actually looks more like older Futaba digitals (S9452).

The new ones may be from the same manufacturer as Savox, but the one I had was not.

Pass on the MMP, I made that mistake before. Then bought Tekins RS and loved it. As far as the servo, as long as you don't use a Spektrum radio ,you should be fine!

Took a mamba max pro out of my sc10 and put in a $50 eBay special original gtb and went 1.5 seconds a lap faster with no other changes. Never again. Castle blames everything else when you have a problem. Their bec is garbage. Go with an lrp flow and at least if you have an issue, it's fixed, no questions asked.

You really want those weights as low as possible. You can simply buy the normal square / rectangle type weights and they fit well in between the battery cells. You can stack 2 rows and end up with the amount of weight you're looking for. A lot of AE team drivers try to get somewhere around 50g to 65g of weight it seems.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-16-Black

I currently switched everything to tekin but I ran Viper esc's for 2 years without a single issue. I would highly recommend the VTX10R or RS Pro

I love my Orion 1007 and still going strong. Great servos!

I'm just back from the track and for the first time today ( 7th time at the track since I drive a B44 ), I was able to enjoy my B44.2 without any issues. Why? I got rid of the Mamba Max Pro piece of cr*p and replaced it with a Tekin RS pro. I'm running a Tekin 5.5

You can see in this thread why I do not recommend the MMP:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...l#post11599951


And for the Savox servo... If you have it, use it...

No metal blade. However, now that I think about it, I have a sawsall with metal blades. Sigh.

What's nuts is that I didn't break a single cut-off wheel. I mean, that wheel was in ALL the way to reach the center of the ballast. Normally when you cut something where the wheel is deep, it catches and the wheel grenades. Achievement unlocked.

Ehhh... wanted to take a break from 4wd. .1 wasn't that huge of a change for when I just brought out my 4wd from time to time.

+1
Best Esc I've ha yet and the programmer is so convenient

Forgive me for not getting to the glue part. I have a set of rebars to glue but have a set glued already. Seems how I am going to revisit the pro set ups I wanted to pick up a set of barcodes. Now that I have a set I will get it up Tuesday. Pitdaddy racing is going to bring his pro vid set up.

I run 95% of the time Rebars with red AKA the only insert I will buy. They last better than any other I have tried. The primary track is top soil. Super soft is all I buy for rears. But on the fronts I like to have soft and super soft.

The Orion VDS-1007 is the same as the Savox SC-1257

Build report time.

I found that I needed to remove a little material at the bottom edge of the rear upper deck to facilitate running zero ball stud washers without hitting the edge of the upper deck. My standard B44 setup ran no ball stud washers in the rear, and a recent b44.1 I dialed in that had big bores was also was way better with zero, so I'm starting there.

I also found I had to shim the left rear axle out 2 shims (remove two shims from inside) so the bone would not bind at full suspension compression against the t-nut. Didn't push the hex out any further and the bearings are still snug. Perhaps removing t-nut material is a better option? Whatever the case, that was an issue I spotted on my kit.

Front spindles are pretty tight on the hats and will need to wear in.

I actually really like the new battery hold-down.

Had to remove some material from the inside of the diff cases to get the pinion to spin free. Also found I needed to shim one more shim behind the diff gear to get zero play between the gears, but that's to be expected (that shimming may be different.

Other than that, dialed.

Wayne

i had the same issues with my t nuts, after diff breakin and a few races, I had to tighten the diff and the binding wasn't an issue anymore

"I am only an egg", but is this the issue described above by UN4RACING as "CVD Plunge"?

I'm using a Savox with a Tekin RS Pro and Futaba TX/Rx with no issues.