very nice paint job!

Has anyone had problems the rear turnbuckle hitting the new BB shock body's with the recommended spacers? I do have my rear hub forward but I still can't beleave my rear flexes 3/8" to hit the shock body.

I took out top spaces and shaved shock tower and seemed to fix this issue.

Yes we do have one bigger jump at my track and when over jumping it can be a harsh landing. Just shave the top tower and save you some problems.

Put the hurt on um ...

Losi you still need to install 2 x .030 washers on the bottom shock eyelet before installing so that rub won't happen ...

yeah, a local here had the same thing happen in one night. He didnt shave and used the spacers. I shaved mine a little, hopefully not too much. If I see mine rubbing, I will pull it off the track and rethink how to fix it. I dont wanna make the shocks look ugly in 1 night of racing.

Yes I have the 2x .030 washers between the arm and eyelet. I think it's just from over jumping but like a stated, I have good clearance between shock and turnbuckle. 3/8" about. My spring just barely touched the turnbuckle with the factory spacing. Maybe you can't run hub forward With out shaving tower???

Just a heads up for some people doing a install to keep an eye out.

I email AE to see if they seen this happen in testing but no word back yet.

If you space the shock correctly the rub will not occur...
you have the rear hub all the way forward , is why it is rubbing.

Move hub or add more spacers

nm

That's pretty normal, you should grab the rear arm and flex it front/rear. You can see that the turnbuckle easily moves into the shock.

Not meaning to be a troll! I am a little disappionted someone doesn't make an "ultimate" kit to keep me from making part choices mistakes. The FT kit plus the bb shocks, plus the hex's is like a $450 kit. 80% of the local racers are losi now. If there was a set date on th .2 I'd be all over it...I was looking at the schumacher too, and durango. I like the schu, but idk how good of a car it really is. Seems like all the kits have a little give and take. AE has ti turnbuckles, schu, durango, and losi are steel, bb shcks come on everything except AE, 13mm's on the schu. Big bearings on some, small on others...I would just like a finished kit.

rant...sorry

Matt,
Are you running the b44 rear arms? The are a little stiffer right? Or would it not even help?

C-yeah later troll...

nobody has a "finished kit" the money is made in the add on parts. Its the same in any motorsport. Motocross is another good example. Low margins on kit sells, margins are in parts.

no such thing. The RB6 is $450 and still requires upgrades. Same with the Durango. Most other car require durability upgrades. Like alum parts to replace plastic. The B4 does not really require anything to make it stronger. No special mods or custom parts. All of the current FT option are just that. Not required. Some people dont even like the BB shocks and run the v2's. Hexes are not really an upgrade, they are just a bling upgrade. I was looking at the 2011 worlds A main results yesterday and some Japanese guy made the A with the short chassis. I think he finished 5th. He lost by less than 5 seconds i think. Would the +8 have gotten him the extra 5 seconds? Doubtful.

Things you need to get fast.
1) Time
2) Lots of tires
3) A consistent track environment, so you can see if the changes were good and not just a track change.
4) a crap ton of laps
5) a transponder system where you can retrieve your times
6) A friend to run laps. to push each other.
7) A capable car (most any of the major brands)
8) RCtech (lol)
9) $$$$$

I agree...I make my living selling "consumables" and parts too. I am having a very hard time deciding on which buggy I want. I have had an RC-10, 10T, rc12lss, RB5 (worlds, then sp upgrades), ZX5, T4, SC10, and MBX6 eco. Of all of them the Mugen is something I like left alone.

Im using the regular b4.1 arms, the stiffest carbon arms would help the most but then you will begin to lose rear bite. Not really recommended for where you race.