I am fairly sure you will hear something official about the .2 within a month or so. But like wildcat said...you dont 'need' any of the stuff for the car to be good.

cool. I just thought they would be better off making money of the complete kit rather than lundsford, jconcepts, or some other aftermarket selling hop ups for the cars. I think the aftermarket might be in the backfire stage and sometime soon we might see "ultimate" kits

The .2 kit should have most all the new AE stuff on it. AE could have put out the new kits with the big bores on them at the release of the big bores, but from a company stand point, release the big bores sell sell sell then make a kit with them. For the most part its the nature of the hobby, and how they make their money. It does suck if your looking at a new car and in the back of your mind you know a new car is due out. I bought a TLR 22 when they came out, and in the first six months spent a decent amount of money in upgrades released by TLR.

Just purchased a b4.1 Worlds

what are some of the first mods you guys would suggest?
I am running Tekin Gen2 10.5T, Tekin RS esc, and Losi Excelorin 2s 60C 6000mah battery.

Letting you know the carbon arms will rub also ...

Agreed, but they will flex the least.

maybe I should wrap the bodies in a vinyl sticker to protect them, lol. J/K

I have the proper spacing, shaved towers, and carbon rear arms and they still rub. The only solution I have found to work is the C towers on the back of the hubs, but that only works if you run those and not the A's or B's

The Car is very good without any extra parts! im not a big fan of all the aluminum parts.

-RPM BALL CUPS!
-Carbon front Arms
-B44 rear arms -Its a Stiffer plastic
-FT Soild rear Axle pin.
-FT Carbon C-hub Top
-Carbon U-brace Shaved flat, then add washers to your liking.
-Big bore shocks, if anything i think are the best investment.

If your just starting out maybe the Hex upgrade on all fours but i dont mind the stock axles.

Only part i broke was Front A-arms from bad landings off jumps.

Long or short rpm ball cups?

Glad im not the only one that has seen this happen.

Team Associated make us a new rear Shock tower or better yet..... B5

I Shaved my shock tower and put one silver washer behind the Blue shock cap peice. Then 2 silver washers between the Rear arm and shock eyelet. Seems to be ok for me now. Yes i run B44 arms too.

I have the FT carbon C-hub tops and shave U brace.

Long and for the Steering sevor just Cut them short to fit.

You don't have big bores, front hexes, a cab forward body and a clear
scotch brite-ed rear wing ??

Man, are you behind the times and latest trends !

Nice paint job

Lots of guys are leaving the blue film on their jconcepts wings here. Then pull it off when it's gets torn up.

All the cool kids do it. What's next?

Been assembling the 4.1 recently and had a couple of questions:

*I seem to be having difficulty aligning the stock ball cups on the tie rods. They appear centered, based upon an equal gap between the rod and plastic, when looking into the threaded side. Though several still appear cockeyed when looking from a horizontal view. Anyone else had this issue and know of a 'fix' beyond changing to another brands (RPM) cup?

*Regarding RPM cups, I actually did go ahead and buy a pack (black, short). There seems to be a fairly significant amount of bind in them. Is this normal and does anyone have any suggestions for expediting a break-in process beyond 'just running them'?

*On the diff, it feels like I have high/low spots. I'm using Acer ceramic balls (both 3/32 and 5/64) and lightly sanded both the diff and thrust rings with 1500 grit on top of a grinding stone surface and using the female outdrive to hold the larger rings. Initially, it appears the outer edges of the diff rings were 'higher' than the inner edges as evidenced by the sanding/polishing. The thrust screw appears true. Any known issues here? I'm kicking around just buying all new rings and thrust bolt/nut/spring.

Thanks in advance.