RC10T4.1 Thread.
#2641
#2642
Yeah short pack only works on a high bite track anything else the long pack is better. Big bores make the car feel almost too plush though. The car still works awesome with small bores and small springs.
#2644
Im waiting on some shortys to experiment with in both my Sc10 and my T4.1 for blinky 17.5 racing. Im sure the car as to be faster with that much weight cut. How much are your setups changed from running full stick? I've tried the AE BB's but find myself always going back to V2's with bb springs. I need to test some more with them but have'nt had the time.
#2645
I have now put the SC10 rear hex on my T4. Guess ill just be a "cheater" when I run my DE wheels
#2646
I have had a T4.1 for a while. I did get it used and i am finaly a a point that I got the suspention where i am happy with it. I am running the same power system I had in my t3, and I have noticed for a while, ever since I got the 4.1 is that it was not as snappy or had the power of the t3.
Well this got me looking closely at the 4.1 last night. Pulled the motor and tires and started feeling everything. There was a lot of tention in the trans. T3 had the motor out and all the drivetrain and trans spins free for like 3-4 seconds after you spin it. the 4.1 is harder to spin and stops right away.
Pulled the trans out and opened it up. It has a gear diff(even though it is a factory team). pulled the idler gear and put the cases together and the diff spins nice and smooth...till you just barely snug the trans up and it starts to bind.
OK...got or had a new case and another used gear diff. No matter what I tried diff one way and the other on both, bearings, old and new cases togher it still binds when you try to tighten. If I left out one bearing it would spin free, but that aint going to work. Who has had an issue like this?
Well this got me looking closely at the 4.1 last night. Pulled the motor and tires and started feeling everything. There was a lot of tention in the trans. T3 had the motor out and all the drivetrain and trans spins free for like 3-4 seconds after you spin it. the 4.1 is harder to spin and stops right away.
Pulled the trans out and opened it up. It has a gear diff(even though it is a factory team). pulled the idler gear and put the cases together and the diff spins nice and smooth...till you just barely snug the trans up and it starts to bind.
OK...got or had a new case and another used gear diff. No matter what I tried diff one way and the other on both, bearings, old and new cases togher it still binds when you try to tighten. If I left out one bearing it would spin free, but that aint going to work. Who has had an issue like this?
#2647
how tight are you screwing the case to the plate? No need to crank on it. Put locktite on the and of the screw. And just snug it. I have never tried to crank mine down hard to see what would happen.
#2648
If i did tighted it down it would get very very tight...no wonder I lost power
#2650
I would think a bad idlers or top shaft would bind all the time. Not just once you snug it. Did you try to remove the top shaft and screw it together? I know you removed the idler. The top shaft has a spacer, I am wondering if it is your issue.
#2651
Yea I think I did but will try it agin
#2652
which case is it:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Case-B4-T4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case
One is meant for the gear diff and one is not. I dont think the old case will even work with a gear diff but just checking. Other than that, maybe the top shaft needs to be replaced, does it have the top shaft spacer on it?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Case-B4-T4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case
One is meant for the gear diff and one is not. I dont think the old case will even work with a gear diff but just checking. Other than that, maybe the top shaft needs to be replaced, does it have the top shaft spacer on it?
#2654
It sounds like you need a new case or...the diff is not properly built, maybe the previous owner doubled up the seals that go on it and made it too wide and now it rubs..? without seeing it first hand i have no clue
#2655
all I can come up with is this,
I see no rubbing on the inside of the case. I am thinking that the bearing on the back side of the gear diff(the side without the screws) is binding on the diff when you tighten it. the bearings when pulled out and slid onto the output shafts, one side(with the bolts) leaves a small tiny gap between the cases that I can get a small knife blade in there to pop it off, the other side is tight up against the diff and is a pain to try to get off, thinking the outer race of the bearing might be binding with the diff.
I see no rubbing on the inside of the case. I am thinking that the bearing on the back side of the gear diff(the side without the screws) is binding on the diff when you tighten it. the bearings when pulled out and slid onto the output shafts, one side(with the bolts) leaves a small tiny gap between the cases that I can get a small knife blade in there to pop it off, the other side is tight up against the diff and is a pain to try to get off, thinking the outer race of the bearing might be binding with the diff.



