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Old 12-17-2012 | 10:09 AM
  #2641  
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Originally Posted by gguertin145
I just bought the jconcepts hex adapter conversion. Does anyone know if the all 4 hexes are just the rear sc10 hexes? I like the avid hexes better but dont want to order the wrong ones.

Thanks!
Yes all 4 corners need to be the SC10 rears when using the JC wheels.
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Old 12-17-2012 | 10:37 AM
  #2642  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I run on a low bite, and the shorty blew chunks. I could not get any power down with 13.5. Many people here assume your running on medium to high bite. So it is often best to tell us about your track.
Yeah short pack only works on a high bite track anything else the long pack is better. Big bores make the car feel almost too plush though. The car still works awesome with small bores and small springs.
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Old 12-17-2012 | 10:50 AM
  #2643  
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sc10 hexes front and rear wit hthe JC axles
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Old 12-17-2012 | 06:52 PM
  #2644  
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Originally Posted by MRCCC
Are you placing the Shorty towards the front or using spacers in front and rear to center it?
Mine is mostly toward the rear to help with traction. And because my local track doesn't currently need a ton of steering.

Originally Posted by elex300
Im waiting on some shortys to experiment with in both my Sc10 and my T4.1 for blinky 17.5 racing. Im sure the car as to be faster with that much weight cut. How much are your setups changed from running full stick? I've tried the AE BB's but find myself always going back to V2's with bb springs. I need to test some more with them but have'nt had the time.
All I did going from full to shorty was readjust camber and ride height.
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Old 12-17-2012 | 08:33 PM
  #2645  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Yes all 4 corners need to be the SC10 rears when using the JC wheels.
Very interesting. I was trying to figure out why my JC wheels were so "wobbly" last Friday night. I didnt realize that they designed them for use with the SC10 rear hexes. I have both DE and JC hex wheels and the DE uses the B4.1 rear hex.

I have now put the SC10 rear hex on my T4. Guess ill just be a "cheater" when I run my DE wheels
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:29 AM
  #2646  
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I have had a T4.1 for a while. I did get it used and i am finaly a a point that I got the suspention where i am happy with it. I am running the same power system I had in my t3, and I have noticed for a while, ever since I got the 4.1 is that it was not as snappy or had the power of the t3.

Well this got me looking closely at the 4.1 last night. Pulled the motor and tires and started feeling everything. There was a lot of tention in the trans. T3 had the motor out and all the drivetrain and trans spins free for like 3-4 seconds after you spin it. the 4.1 is harder to spin and stops right away.

Pulled the trans out and opened it up. It has a gear diff(even though it is a factory team). pulled the idler gear and put the cases together and the diff spins nice and smooth...till you just barely snug the trans up and it starts to bind.
OK...got or had a new case and another used gear diff. No matter what I tried diff one way and the other on both, bearings, old and new cases togher it still binds when you try to tighten. If I left out one bearing it would spin free, but that aint going to work. Who has had an issue like this?
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:39 AM
  #2647  
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how tight are you screwing the case to the plate? No need to crank on it. Put locktite on the and of the screw. And just snug it. I have never tried to crank mine down hard to see what would happen.
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:51 AM
  #2648  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
how tight are you screwing the case to the plate? No need to crank on it. Put locktite on the and of the screw. And just snug it. I have never tried to crank mine down hard to see what would happen.
that is the thing as soon as it even gets snug it binds...not tight at all. the new case felt different, it would spin free and bind, spin free and bind, like something was warped
If i did tighted it down it would get very very tight...no wonder I lost power
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:54 AM
  #2649  
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If it was just the one diff I would just try a new diff, but 2 diffs and 2 cases and 4 bearings? I must be missing something here, i just dont know what
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:56 AM
  #2650  
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I would think a bad idlers or top shaft would bind all the time. Not just once you snug it. Did you try to remove the top shaft and screw it together? I know you removed the idler. The top shaft has a spacer, I am wondering if it is your issue.
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:58 AM
  #2651  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I would think a bad idlers or top shaft would bind all the time. Not just once you snug it. Did you try to remove the top shaft and screw it together? I know you removed the idler. The top shaft has a spacer, I am wondering if it is your issue.
Yea I think I did but will try it agin
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Old 12-18-2012 | 09:59 AM
  #2652  
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which case is it:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ion-Case-B4-T4

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case

One is meant for the gear diff and one is not. I dont think the old case will even work with a gear diff but just checking. Other than that, maybe the top shaft needs to be replaced, does it have the top shaft spacer on it?
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Old 12-18-2012 | 10:10 AM
  #2653  
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I dont know...no top shaft, no iddler, no idler shaft, with the idler shaft....why is the diff rubbing on the cases? LOL is all I can do now
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Old 12-18-2012 | 10:13 AM
  #2654  
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Originally Posted by dirtman71
I dont know...no top shaft, no iddler, no idler shaft, with the idler shaft....why is the diff rubbing on the cases? LOL is all I can do now
It sounds like you need a new case or...the diff is not properly built, maybe the previous owner doubled up the seals that go on it and made it too wide and now it rubs..? without seeing it first hand i have no clue
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Old 12-18-2012 | 10:19 AM
  #2655  
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all I can come up with is this,
I see no rubbing on the inside of the case. I am thinking that the bearing on the back side of the gear diff(the side without the screws) is binding on the diff when you tighten it. the bearings when pulled out and slid onto the output shafts, one side(with the bolts) leaves a small tiny gap between the cases that I can get a small knife blade in there to pop it off, the other side is tight up against the diff and is a pain to try to get off, thinking the outer race of the bearing might be binding with the diff.
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