Would it be a bad idea to add weight in the last cut out closest to the tires on the SC10 4x4 RPM a-arms? I think I can fabricate something and pour my own lead piece to fit perfectly and screw in with out damaging the A-arms or rubbing. I’m looking for others thoughts before I go threw the process if this has been done or would hinder and not help with me adding weight.

Add weight to the chassis (sprung weight) not the suspension arms (unsprung weight).

so are you guys running the exotek chassis or is this to much weight on the sc10. Im close to mayfileds setup with only 1/2oz on each side of my servo. I now fell more planted and showing quicker and more consistent times. But i fell like im missing something to compete with the losi tanks. Indoor 10th scale track medium grip. TQspeedway Idaho gridirons super soft, 3mm wheels, FT Truck

Pakk, yes he is, but like I stated before that was a good starting point. Then you can fine tune the setup to fit your driving style. I did the hub mod, but I also got new rear hubs from Hot Racing that looks like hub that comes in the AE kits and made my own C hubs. Remember that these setups are there to help you get close and then you can mode it into your own from there.

You can get that chassis, or just add more weight thru out the chassis. Next time you can get to the track to practice, bring extra weight and add more to your truck and run a pack. Then determine where or not + or - weight. I drove a FT truck with that chassis, felt really good, but I didn't want to get it if all I had to do is add weight. I also run the locker for the front. May later get that exotek chassis.

Why are you guys even adding weight to the ExoTek ?


I'm with the Limit man ..


just add weight to the standard chassis and your good to go with some extra traction & stability ..

Im not running the ExoTek. How much weight and in what places. I think i may need more motor to support the extra weight. so i have a idea + or - what i want to try and hit.

Just check www.rc10.com for Bk's Sc10- 4x4 set-up , all listed there ...

The only place I recall weight being added after having the exotek is to the nose area. I haven't found the need, yet.

As for adding extra weight in general, the exotek adds it at the lowest point in comparison to adding weight to the stock chassis which a variety of people feel is ideal, especially in low traction conditions.


Update on some carpet practice:

3 SC10 4x4s went out to do some carpet practice along with some onroad cars. There were no jumps, so this was mainly to see how turn handing and power delivery would be as well as tire selection.

As it sits, the stock AE tires look like the hot ticket again or some barcode style clays compounds.

The RC Shox center diff with 8 pins was able to almost cause the car to wheelie with my Tekin Pro4 4000K motor and Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC. Very impressive, don't see a need now for the slipper setups at all if you already have the V2 Center diff, just add the pins you need and go. (tires were gumballs, M4s which were a joke test to see what it would do, back to AE stockers after lol)

Worked on tuning the M2C toe in blocks to see how I could affect rotation but still maintain the stability I was used to. Initially went with 3.5 degrees, and of course lacked rotation needed. Went to 3 and stock and it was okay, still had to slow down more than I liked for rotation compared to what I wanted. On a whim I also tried the 3-3 setup using the AE block but wasn't too big on how it felt in comparison to stock antisquat so went back to 3-2. I may give more antisquat a look again.

Finally got a chance to try the 2.5 degree setting and oh boy was there rotation, very fast like a touring car, almost too much with the higher CG than a touring car and caused it to over-rotate when pushed hard.

Went up to 2.75 degrees and it feels great now. Faster rotation than stock but controllable.

Unfortunately we didn't get a chance to test the 8mm mod on its own, but one of my driving buddies has the exotek carriers so we will test next time.

For the vehicles we brought with, they were basically a range of SC10 4x4 configurations:

- RC Shox Center Diff
- Exotek Locker setup (whatever else that entails, don't know)
- STock VTS Slipper

From what we could tell, the center diff and exotek locker seemed to perform similar on these carpet conditions.

All in all, other than changing my under the ball stud settings to 5mm up front, 6mm in the rear and going with the 2.75 degree rear toe, my carpet setup stayed basically the same. I may try going down to 5mm in the rear but I am thinking once the season gets underway, traction may come up too much for that.

I bet if you could reduce kick up, you'd have a great steering carpet rocket with added anti squat. Can't do that unfortunately.

yeah, that would be cool. The car's really good right now. Did a few rumble jumps (hitting the barriers lol) and it went through them like they weren't there and there was 1 jump on the edge of the track that I tried a few times, went good. Cool to see what it does when the track is fully setup.

You could try running the rear camber link shorter. I know when I switched up from the longest setting to the shortest setting the truck rotated much quicker.

gave that a try before last indoor season and it felt inconsistent on the sweeper. Almost like I wanted an in-between setting. One thing for sure, the car does respond to changes, even very subtle ones. I wonder with the exotek carriers and how raising the outer stud on the rear hub seems to increase traction from what we have seen independent of raising the inner ballstud if playing with that in combination with moving the link could fine tune the grip?

All in all though, its pretty much just getting that last bit out of the vehicle right now. like 95 out of 100.

savox 1258 with no glitch since I run a cap.

I raced today again and switched out the swaybars to the white smallest size, I also had a local racer lend me a set of track recommended tires.
What a difference!!!!!
Truck was planted, and all of the feeling of being on ice previously dissapeared. I was able to take the corners quickly by letting off the throttle and bleeding off speed and turn in sharply power right out, the same ones that I was wide arcing on friday because I couldn't get my truck to turn. It turned sharply so well today I adjusted my expo so it wasn't to sharp. I actually finished my race today and more importantly I didn't finish last.......second to last but still not last lol

I now know why people say tires are so important.

This is the second time I've ever raced, Friday night was my first. I see that the truck is waiting for my skill to develop so it can really come to life. I was beating out other trucks on the straightway but its on the turns where I need to learn to follow the race line and get better at my throttle so I don't gun my throttle off the jump and end up going nose high and land on my rear bumper almost standing up lol. I just need alot of track practice because I know I can get better at driving just need practice.
I had a few moments where I was hitting the jumps and remembered to let off my throttle right as went off the jump, and it looked like I knew what I was doing and even passed a couple trucks then my nervousness got the best of me.

^I was wrong. That was measured with no oil in the shocks-- I guess the nut was contacting the bladder. With oil (and bladder being forced up), truck lays frame right as shock is done. Which is pretty much exactly how I had it limited before...

Went 35/30 on the oils, feels very similar to 13mm set up. Hoping to test it out soon...

LRP Tc spec v2 with new lower board/Reedy Sonic 4.5 550/exotek front clutch locker/STRC .5 hubs/CF hub extenders, 3mm under the ballstuds f/r/barcodes on F11 +3's/other crud...