SC10 4x4 Thread
Hi guys, I'm still busy reading the entire thread from the start, I am currently on page 1346 so more than halfway home 
I have a quick question I have the chance to buy a used exotech chassis for $70 its the Exotek LCG Chassis (version 2) is this a good deal as I thought I read you can buy them new for $99? My only hesitation about buying it is theres a screw hole that is damaged for the nerf bars.

I have a quick question I have the chance to buy a used exotech chassis for $70 its the Exotek LCG Chassis (version 2) is this a good deal as I thought I read you can buy them new for $99? My only hesitation about buying it is theres a screw hole that is damaged for the nerf bars.
Anyway, I'd say thats not a bad price, $50 - $60 is better though

I know alot of guys switch to saddle packs when they get the exotech but I wanted to know is there any issue with swapping over my receiver box, and esc tray to run the stock chassis configuration on the exotech and can I do it with existing hardware without buying anything else?
heres a list of stuff out there that I might want to get, but feel free to chime in and tell me if any of this isn't really needed
I know mantis makes some good stuff and tests it rigourously before it gets sold
So his stuff goes to the top of the wish list. I might want to even send my truck to him like jeffsc10 did
to have the Mantis touch 
RC Shox garodisc
RC Shox ackerman bar,
RC Shox Center Ball Diff (version 2)
RC Shox 2 Stage Pistons
RC Shox Drill Set
VTS basket or MTK Basket?
Coyote Tech Diff with bearing
Coyote Tech Chassis Brace
STRC Aluminum Rear Hubs
STRC Aluminum Front Caster Block Set
STRC Aluminum Steering Bellcrank System
STRC Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulleys
STRC Aluminum Front A-Arm Mount
STRC Aluminum Rear Arm Mount (3-2) w/ Delrin inserts
STRC Aluminum Heat Sink Motor Plate
Heres a pic of my progress so far lol
Its not pretty or the best wiring job but its mine
I know mantis makes some good stuff and tests it rigourously before it gets sold
So his stuff goes to the top of the wish list. I might want to even send my truck to him like jeffsc10 did
to have the Mantis touch 
RC Shox garodisc
RC Shox ackerman bar,
RC Shox Center Ball Diff (version 2)
RC Shox 2 Stage Pistons
RC Shox Drill Set
VTS basket or MTK Basket?

Coyote Tech Diff with bearing

Coyote Tech Chassis Brace
STRC Aluminum Rear Hubs
STRC Aluminum Front Caster Block Set
STRC Aluminum Steering Bellcrank System
STRC Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulleys
STRC Aluminum Front A-Arm Mount
STRC Aluminum Rear Arm Mount (3-2) w/ Delrin inserts
STRC Aluminum Heat Sink Motor Plate
Heres a pic of my progress so far lol
Its not pretty or the best wiring job but its mine

- Front spring kit
- RC Shox Pistons, dual stage if outdoor loose and rough.
- M2C Toe in block, especially for loose stuff. locks in the rear end with more toe.
- AE or RC Shox ackerman bar. You will need shorter ball studs with the AE one. Krio's website is a great plate to get the part (AE) cheap
- Ball diff (get extra pins, they are cheap), excellent on loose stuff from what I have seen. Look forward to seeing how it goes on carpet this weekend.
- If you want to do the 8mm mod, I would get the Exotek Rear carriers
- Get the 12mm ball studs, doesn't have to be the FT kind
- Weights
That would be at a minimum what I would get.

If I were you, I'd buy the FT upgrade kit (w/ a chassis brace, gear cover, VTS slipper, and a new Ackerman bar) and the Exotec clutch/hub whatever and just run that. Between these parts and a 540 can motor (I use a 4kv Hobbywing) I think the truck is competitive in most situations. If you want to do saddle packs, go for it, but stick packs and the extra weight you need in the front is about the same.
The truck is hyper durable outside of the brass diff inserts and the a arms. Wish it had droop screws.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 444
From: Sioux City, Iowa
Anyway, I'd say thats not a bad price, $50 - $60 is better though 
I would say I would purchase the following next personally:
- Front spring kit
- RC Shox Pistons, dual stage if outdoor loose and rough.
- M2C Toe in block, especially for loose stuff. locks in the rear end with more toe.
- AE or RC Shox ackerman bar. You will need shorter ball studs with the AE one. Krio's website is a great plate to get the part (AE) cheap
- Ball diff (get extra pins, they are cheap), excellent on loose stuff from what I have seen. Look forward to seeing how it goes on carpet this weekend.
- If you want to do the 8mm mod, I would get the Exotek Rear carriers
- Get the 12mm ball studs, doesn't have to be the FT kind
- Weights
That would be at a minimum what I would get.

I would say I would purchase the following next personally:
- Front spring kit
- RC Shox Pistons, dual stage if outdoor loose and rough.
- M2C Toe in block, especially for loose stuff. locks in the rear end with more toe.
- AE or RC Shox ackerman bar. You will need shorter ball studs with the AE one. Krio's website is a great plate to get the part (AE) cheap
- Ball diff (get extra pins, they are cheap), excellent on loose stuff from what I have seen. Look forward to seeing how it goes on carpet this weekend.
- If you want to do the 8mm mod, I would get the Exotek Rear carriers
- Get the 12mm ball studs, doesn't have to be the FT kind
- Weights
That would be at a minimum what I would get.
Thanks for the helpful list
I didn't even think about weights 
8mm mod? Don't tell me I'll use the search box

No really if its in the thread I'll get to it soon

I was waiting to read more before I decide if I was going garodisk or ball diff
but I might just pick it up off the seller as he has a pretty good amount of hop ups for this truck and I'm a sucker for a deal 
Got the exotech chassis

He sold me a front spring kit and the total was $70 shipped so I still feel good


If I were you, I'd buy the FT upgrade kit (w/ a chassis brace, gear cover, VTS slipper, and a new Ackerman bar) and the Exotec clutch/hub whatever and just run that. Between these parts and a 540 can motor (I use a 4kv Hobbywing) I think the truck is competitive in most situations. If you want to do saddle packs, go for it, but stick packs and the extra weight you need in the front is about the same.
The truck is hyper durable outside of the brass diff inserts and the a arms. Wish it had droop screws.
FT upgrade kit is $40 on ebay.I really have enjoyed reading your posts and agree with your stance on people being able to do their own research

Now to only get someone to sell me a ball bearing diff or make one if coyote is still making them
Last edited by AE SC10 4X4; 11-29-2012 at 10:55 PM.
Sc104x4
*Ae factory upgrade kit
*8mm C brace mod for indoor clay
*team set-up , www.rc10.com
*sway bars
*double up .2mm shims under sun gear for front & rear diff
*Li-po saddle packs
all U need .....
*Ae factory upgrade kit
*8mm C brace mod for indoor clay
*team set-up , www.rc10.com
*sway bars
*double up .2mm shims under sun gear for front & rear diff
*Li-po saddle packs
all U need .....
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 444
From: Sioux City, Iowa
Sc104x4
*Ae factory upgrade kit
*8mm C brace mod for indoor clay
*team set-up , www.rc10.com
*sway bars
*double up .2mm shims under sun gear for front & rear diff
*Li-po saddle packs
all U need .....
*Ae factory upgrade kit
*8mm C brace mod for indoor clay
*team set-up , www.rc10.com
*sway bars
*double up .2mm shims under sun gear for front & rear diff
*Li-po saddle packs
all U need .....

jkI'm running Ryan M's current setup sheet off teams website
Thanks for the help will be getting more into the diff problems like the phantom clicking and noises but so far my truck is really quiet and I want to keep that way
so really want a ball bearing diff but will shim my sun gears soon. I think I might just get the mantis touch full detail LOL
Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4
Now to only get someone to sell me a ball bearing diff or make one if coyote is still making them 

Measure the bearing, measure the housing, lay the sandpaper on something flat, and sand away till you get the housing reduced by the width of the bearing.
I advise you start with new housings.
You will find I'm a max performance/minimum bucks kind of guy.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 622
From: San Diego
Thanks for the helpful list
I didn't even think about weights 
8mm mod? Don't tell me I'll use the search box
No really if its in the thread I'll get to it soon
I was waiting to read more before I decide if I was going garodisk or ball diff
but I might just pick it up off the seller as he has a pretty good amount of hop ups for this truck and I'm a sucker for a deal 
Got the exotech chassis
He sold me a front spring kit and the total was $70 shipped so I still feel good
I like how you think most bang for my buck
FT upgrade kit is $40 on ebay.
I really have enjoyed reading your posts and agree with your stance on people being able to do their own research
Now to only get someone to sell me a ball bearing diff or make one if coyote is still making them
I didn't even think about weights 
8mm mod? Don't tell me I'll use the search box

No really if its in the thread I'll get to it soon

I was waiting to read more before I decide if I was going garodisk or ball diff
but I might just pick it up off the seller as he has a pretty good amount of hop ups for this truck and I'm a sucker for a deal 
Got the exotech chassis

He sold me a front spring kit and the total was $70 shipped so I still feel good

I like how you think most bang for my buck
FT upgrade kit is $40 on ebay.I really have enjoyed reading your posts and agree with your stance on people being able to do their own research

Now to only get someone to sell me a ball bearing diff or make one if coyote is still making them

As for the exotek chassis, yes the radio box and all other pieces for the stock chassis fit into it. And yes the nerf bar screw holes on the exotek chassi are to shallow so you will need 4 3x10 cap head screws. Also the 3x14 chassis screw holes are too shallow as well so use the 3x12s from the nerf bars for them instead.
Anyone interested in a v1 exotek chassis? Let me know
I made mine on a mill, but if you have a have a caliper you can make yours easy enough with 80'grit sandpaper.
Measure the bearing, measure the housing, lay the sandpaper on something flat, and sand away till you get the housing reduced by the width of the bearing.
I advise you start with new housings.
You will find I'm a max performance/minimum bucks kind of guy.
Measure the bearing, measure the housing, lay the sandpaper on something flat, and sand away till you get the housing reduced by the width of the bearing.
I advise you start with new housings.
You will find I'm a max performance/minimum bucks kind of guy.



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