i run the red losi pistons. they feel very very nice. slightly more pack and smoother feel.

ik one guy was trying gheas and they were sooo smooth and had even more pack then the losi pistons. Those pistons and avid springs are sweet but im on stock springs for now. My car did feel very good first night out with stockers. Im the red b4.1 in the video =[ lol

thanks. thats all i wanted to know.

Here is what you need to do. Pick a setup that is for similar conditions as where you race. Get the springs for that setup, and the next softest and next stiffest pair. If you regularly run at a couple different tracks and the conditions are very different (outdoor, bumpy, and loose vs. indoor, smooth, and high bite) you might want to find a couple different setups for those conditions. Basically pick a setup, get the springs. Really not as complex as you are making it. The other option is to just get all the springs and be covered no matter what.

Has anybody found a good setup for the big bores on astro turf tracks ?.

I have a question for you guys. I have a b4.1 converted to the worlds car. I run chad dues setup for the big bores. I am having a issue with the car spinning out when I get on the brakes. I am to the point where I basically have no brakes in it right now. I have tried different settings on my ball diff. Nothing has seemed to make it better. I even just installed a gear diff just to try and eliminate any possibilities. Everything is free in the rear new bearing eft. Nothing binding. I have ran other cars with the exact setup and they are much more forgiving. I have also tried different motors ect. I just want to see if anyone else has had issues under braking and what they have found. I run on a extremely high bite clay track. Everyone is running full slicks in clay compound. Thanks in advance. - Tim




Anyone?

Have you turned down your brake strength in the speedo or radio? It sounds like your brakes are just engaging too hard at the start and causing the car to spin out, this is a major issue in 2wd. It is nothing with the car setup and everything to do with your electronics setup. Plenty of people are running that setup with no issues so it has to be something with your electronics as I mentioned.

Any 2wd car will spin out if you are locking up the rear tires too hard.

Here's a picture of a project I've been working on. Think Tessman b4, but a little more streamlined...

If this is not your ESC brake settings, I would say check weight transfer while braking, if the front end dives too much, you'll lost rear traction quickly.

When you say you run the exact same setup, does it include tires, battery size and position?

Tim, it's your setup, not the car. Why are you using the brakes? There's no need for them on this layout. ESC or radio settings maybe? Too much rear droop compared to the front? Chad Due runs on a small, low traction, small jump track, which is nothing like what you're driving on.

Like others have suggested play with the brake adjustments in your esc and transmitter. Dial down the brake strength a little and add some negative exponential. This will make the brakes less sensitive right off neutral. The other thing you can do is add some spacers inside the shocks to limit the up travel. This will reduce the amount of weight transfered off throttle.

False. If he adds some droop limiters less weight will transfer forward off throttle.

Nice. It gives me a glimmer of hope that not everyone on here is a complete idiot who can't even manage to figure out the most simple of things.

I use the brakes at the end of the straight going into the sharp right hand turn. I know many people are using the chad due setup. The only thing I can think of is the speed controller. Maybe I will try more neg expo next practice.

Tim, I just checked "the Due setup". Go to heavier oils and up on the rear spring. Move the hubs back, and stop using the brakes. The car is reacting too quickly to the mega traction and spinning out.

For what its worth there are no track in the US that I am aware of where people are making the changes you suggested. The people running at OC/RC and WCRC out in Cali, which is regarded as some of the highest grip in the US, are still running basically the same setup as Due is running. They are NOT going up in spring weight and NOT going to a long hub.

I do not suggest you make these changes, you should change your speedo settings which is where the brake settings reside and then you should go talk to some of the AE drivers at the track and see what they are doing but I am about 100% sure they are not going to tell you to go up on your rear spring and move your hubs back.

There will be plenty of AE guys there this weekend for the state race, if you don't have a chance to talk to anyone before then come see us this weekend.

I drive a B4.1 with big bores, at THAT TRACK. Super tacky, soft, leaving footprints in the clay. If I had nothing useful to offer I wouldn't have said anything. Try it.

Which esc are you using? I have a tekin rs in both my b4.1 worlds and t4.1 and i had the same problem. Where i had my brake set on the esc the car didn't have much braking at all, if i adjusted it one level higher on the esc, the car would spin out.

The solution was to hook it up to the tekin hotwire to fine tune the braking. It was explained to me that the settings on the esc are in 10% increments where as changing the values with the hotwire are in 1% increments.

My car is finally dialed and it is perfect. If you don't have a tekin, check to see if you can hook up your esc to the computer using esc software made for your esc.