I rebuilt my BB shocks I kept getting them sucking back in towards shock bodies, no matter how many times I built them. I even tried the spring trick someone mentioned earlier. Still same issue no matter what, so finally, I just pulled down shaft unscrewed bottem shock body screwed it back on and it stopped doing it??? It no longer sucking in and when you pushed in it pushed back with normal rebound

LOL

Those having the shaft suck back in. After bleeding them do they still suck in after you "pump" them 10-15 times emulsifying the air/oil?

I would suggest building your kit, driving the buggy, and then make adjustments depending on the track(s) you will race at and your driving style. Just because the avid hexes, big bores, or steering rack are popular upgrades, does not mean they are needed to be competitive.

A 6.5 in a 2wd buggy is a handful. If you have to ask, and unless you are experienced running 2wd mod, i would suggest no more than a 10.5.

I have found when i get negative rebound, i pump the shock shafts vigorously a couple of times and gets rid of the negative rebound. If that does not work, i extend the shaft, remove the bleed screw, and slowly compress the shock, rethread the bleed screw and you are done.

Same for me, that's why I asked the above question..

I have ran some wild cars in my past but it has been awhile I'm leaning now toward the 8.5t from tekin which would probably be perfect for my indoor clay track. Thanks for the help

Gonna have to try this. I redid my shocks several times using different techniques to get rid of the sucking in and couldn't. If all of them rebound and suck in the same will this still be an issue with the handling of the car?

I made the little carbon shelf that fit under the U-brace last night to mount the esc on. Looks pretty factory if I say so myself. I'll snap some pictures once I get home from work today. The only issue I see with mounting the ESC in the middle is that I am pretty locked in with the location of the shorty other then moving it forward, but it would be the same if the esc was mounted down inside the tray.

When converting to hexes how are the quality of the JC hexes?

I really want only JC parts on my buggy.

Also what allows the wheels to spin with hexes?

Do the bearing that I used to use in the wheels go in the steering blocks with hexes?

Also I am guessing I need axle pins up front too?

What is the part # for the lock nuts that go in the hex steering blocks?

Thanks and sorry for so many questions.

if i purchased a set of team associated big bore springs would i be safe with getting the soft set or are you guys getting into the medium set as well. I will have them on a b4.1 and a b44.1

Depends on you, your track, and the tires.

all the tracks are hard packed indoor medium bite. i usaully go with a barcode or something like that. i purchased some v2 shocks with losi big bore springs but only have a single set so looking for something that i can change and adjust with.

LOL you are worse than me..... Put the ESC where it's supposed to go.

You may have run some "pretty wild" cars before, but have you ever run them on a track? Driving on a track is much more difficult than you think. Here is the thing. If you have no clue what you are doing, it is best to copy those who do. The top drivers in the WORLD don't run 6.5 turn motors in 2wd buggies for a reason. It is just too much power for a 2wd buggy on a track. If you want to do it right from the start, get a 17.5 and run it with no timing. In about a year when you can make it more than a couple laps without crashing, turn the timing up. If you get a mod motor you will just get frustrated, trust me, I have been in this hobby for 20+ years, and have seen this happen more times than I care to keep count. Especially with the guys that started with SC trucks.

Was it not possible to mount the shelf you made high enough to allow the battery to fit underneath it?

There were some issues with the JC hexes stripping out where the little screw for the clamp went. I think the fix was a slightly longer screw. I don't know if the longer screws are included, or if you have to buy your own. You will need front wheels with a hex pattern instead of the bearings. The locknuts for the hex front axles are the same as the rear axle. Really?