The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
11-22-2012 | 12:48 AM
#812
No. That would be a disaster trying to be certain you got it on perfectly at the start and ended up precise on all corners / turns by the end. The glue/adhesive on the film is crazy strong; you wouldn't get it off w/o damaging it. Simply apply and then take a blade to the edges along the chassis and you're done. It's quite easy that way to be honest.
11-22-2012 | 12:51 AM
#813
You should consider an SX3 also. I've done side-by-side comparisons lately against the B44 my daughter used to drive (a buddy owns it now) and the 44 is harder to drive by far. BUT, the 44.2 looks like a much improved upon version that should be easier to control... like my SX3.
Anyways.... carry on
.
Anyways.... carry on
.EDIT: Ok I now see Schumacher in your signature area. Glad to hear you like it. I don't think either of my regular tracks (West Coast Raceway and OC_RC) even sell Schumacher stuff, and the hobby shops at these facilities are stacked.
Last edited by rigor; 11-22-2012 at 01:20 AM.
11-22-2012 | 03:42 AM
#815
Regarding your Tekin motor mounting, since the chassis plate heights hasn't changed, you'll probably find the answer in the B44.1 thread. You can use any 2 opposite holes on your motor for mounting, but like you said, it's all about the angle of those circuit board tabs coming off your motor and fitting. I wouldn't say it's so much about being below the top chassis plate (despite what AE states) but more about it fitting in there between the body. I've snapped a quick phone pic to give you an idea of how much clear area there is around the motor tabs / body on my build. This is the included Jconcepts body. I also have a ProLine Bulldog body that I could check out to see if there is more clearance room (or not).
Get some rest, search the B44.1 thread for "Tekin", and work on the motor install tomorrow. It can't be coincidence that most build / maintenance mistakes I've made on RC cars is late at night when I've been going at it for a while, or just flat out mentally tired.
11-22-2012 | 06:19 AM
#816
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 399
You should consider an SX3 also. I've done side-by-side comparisons lately against the B44 my daughter used to drive (a buddy owns it now) and the 44 is harder to drive by far. BUT, the 44.2 looks like a much improved upon version that should be easier to control... like my SX3.
11-22-2012 | 06:38 AM
#817
Yes, I was also looking at the Cat, forgot to mention... people have great things to say about this car also. From the reading I have been doing it really sounds lke the B44.2 is a much improved car over the B44. How durable is the B44.2 compared to the 410 and the SX3? I don't really crash that much, but, we have alot of out of control SC trucks at my track..they will randomly come flying at you no matter where your at(kids).
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
11-22-2012 | 07:00 AM
#818
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 399
So far I've found it not to be that durable. I agree with you about SCTs acting like it's a demolition Derby. In two outings I have had the following breakages:
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
11-22-2012 | 07:26 AM
#819
So far I've found it not to be that durable. I agree with you about SCTs acting like it's a demolition Derby. In two outings I have had the following breakages:
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
11-22-2012 | 07:34 AM
#820
So far I've found it not to be that durable. I agree with you about SCTs acting like it's a demolition Derby. In two outings I have had the following breakages:
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
Day one broken Rod End as the result of nothing special. It split along the seam. My day was saved because the track had RPM's in stock.
Day 2 - Ball end broke off inside the caster block after what I would call an ordinary jump. I resorted to using block B only to have the front left "A" arm break in half. This was a pretty hard hit though.
Take away for me was to stock up on spares.
11-22-2012 | 08:03 AM
#821
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 336
From: Denmark
1. Yes, I was also looking at the Cat, forgot to mention... people have great things to say about this car also. From the reading I have been doing it really sounds lke the B44.2 is a much improved car over the B44. How durable is the B44.2 compared to the 410 and the SX3? I don't really crash that much, but, we have alot of out of control SC trucks at my track..they will randomly come flying at you no matter where your at(kids).
2. On the other side of the coin, I have had great luck with the cars durability. I have put about four race days and a couple of practice days and have yet to break anything or have any real issues. With that being said, I have kept a very close eye on things and I ditched the stock ball cups and turnbuckles before I even started running the car to Lunsfords (the stock ballcups are not the best IMO). I came from a durnago 410 which I also had great luck with.
2. So what do you thing B44.2 vs Durango DEX410? (v3?) i was looking at the DEX410v3 because of the gear diff but didt end up buying the B44.2.
but im still not sure if i would have bin better of with the TD410v3 (because i know the gear diff and the work with it and the Durango is easyer to get here in Denmark than the AE that's what make me second guessing)
Best Regards.
11-22-2012 | 09:31 AM
#823
Page 19 states to offset the servo horn by about 5-10 degrees, and page 20 shows the servo link to be about 20.5mm. I used a digital caliper to ballpark set all my links throughout the car initially. However, I did find I needed to remove my servo horn and pop it over 1 more setting on the servo gear teeth (probably ended up more in the range of 10-20 degrees), as well as slightly adjust the servo link so the steering rack was centered perfectly. From there it was very minor adjustments on my radio system.
11-22-2012 | 09:37 AM
#824
So, Last night I went to leisure last night and found a pretty upsetting problem. My car has an extremely hard on power push, on one of the highest traction tracks in the midwest. Not to mention the car feels like it doesn't want to steer....AT ALL
I built the car to kit specs, with the only deviation being to run the black sway bar. I keep bleeding the shocks..and nothing is helping. Anyone have any ideas?
I will say almost EVERYONE is running ghost pins, and a team driver I talked to pretty much said a lot of my problem was the tires. However, I get a little of the same problem at my "home" track.
I built the car to kit specs, with the only deviation being to run the black sway bar. I keep bleeding the shocks..and nothing is helping. Anyone have any ideas?
I will say almost EVERYONE is running ghost pins, and a team driver I talked to pretty much said a lot of my problem was the tires. However, I get a little of the same problem at my "home" track.
11-22-2012 | 09:39 AM
#825
