You mean B44.1. Buy 'em and put 'em in... get extra thumbscrews though .

Ran mine tonight with the .2 set up. I am going to try my .1 set up Saturday. The .2 stock set up was loose on our track. Moved the upper rear shocks in and added the full ballast weight. Felt better but was pushing. By the end of the night on a dry track I was running with out the ballast and super soft rebars on all fours. I had trouble getting a rhythm going till I took the ballast out. Then it felt linear in the turns.

The kit felt pretty good box stock when I first got there but then the line dried out and was a bit loose in the rear so I put on the B option hubs and then moved the inner front ball stud in then the black anti roll bar. It got better. Then I added the weight and it started pushing, then moved the rear upper shocks in. Moving the rear shocks in really helped still kinda pushing. Drag brake may have been a good option at this point. So then removed the weight and the kit just felt like I could put it any where I wanted. The quick change battery holder was awesome with about 10 packs ran tonight. The slipper is dialed. Not sold on the shocks yet though. I didn't play with pistons or oils at all. I do however have the suspension working pretty good with the stock 35 weight oil in all four shocks and 1.6 front piston and 1.7 rear.

There not interchangeable... The .2 is wider due it has room to move the battery forward or back. It would be a good option but I will be sticking with the current battery holder. It is great for practice nights.

yea my bad lol

BTW if you guys try moving the the upper rear shocks in? You have to be sure the shock eyelets are all the way screwed on. The dog bones will pop out and its a good idea to add a limit shim in the shock as well.

Do you have a picture?

Thanks for all your input, sounds like ill try my .1 setup for starters.

Of the kit?
Yeah I would start with that. In hindsight I wish I would have started with my .1 set up. The kit all and all is not any faster than the .1. The new features are a huge improvement but it did not feel any faster, maybe after I start playing with the shock it will feel different. In my opinion if the oil in the stock set up could be a 30 weight in the rear then the kit would be more universal.

It does feel longer though. The slipper is a huge benefit and the +8 I am still on the fence with that . Our track is not real smooth and it did absorb the track even with the 35 weight oils. I have high hopes when I start working with the oils. The wasn't much more room for electronics though. I guess the slipper and battery holder took up the space. I was happy to see it still has a ton of steering.
The one thing they did not address and that is the pinion is still a bite to change. Getting to the set screw with out modding a hole in the eccentric. To get the pinion center with the spur you have to take the motor out so I just let it hang out a bit.
Parts are a still hard to get at our shop but they are coming. The shock towers and top plates are all you will have to worry about though. Everything else is common .1 parts.

I was getting bored with my .1 I could set it up and build it blind folded. This kit has definitely Got me tinkering again nice work.

I wont say its faster than the .1 yet. But it is better any many ways.

What backup parts are handy to have around?

Preparing for the reedy race next year.

Car should be fairly solid as long as you aren't running into something every 3 seconds

I just built the .2 but have ran the .1 forever. I'd say the same items apply from my experience.

Grab a few Diff Ring and Pinion gear sets just in case
Caster blocks
Steering blocks
Front and rear arms should be obvious
wing mounts

Everything else is pretty stout but you could pick up F/R bulkheads as well if you wanted.

^ solid recommendation.

:thumbup:

Sorry if this has been discussed in detail aready, but what glue are you guys using to seal the carbon fiber edes? I used some tire glue but it did not come out like i expected and left some white residue behind. Im thinking the green zap-a-gap stuff would be the stuff to use since i think thats what i have used in the past. Its been a while since i have sealed a cf chassis.

wipe the white residue off with Acetone.

I used thin Losi tire glue on mine. Their medium seems to leave more residue on tires as well compared to the thin.

Hello there.

can you put a link up for me on F/R bulkheads? ore is it AS9709 & AS9713?
if so, why ekstra of thoes?

Best Regards.

I have used both aka tire glue and mercury adhesives medium with great results. I know if you were to cure it with kicker it will turn white. Just sand it down with some 600-800 grit sand paper till its smooth again and use a different glue and let it dry naturally.

cf chassis prep link:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0