There were some issues w/ people having leaky diffs. The gaskets are tight, so make sure they are fully seated around the outer edge. The plastic diff case also seems to have the smallest little flash around the base of it (surface where it mounts to gasket), this could keep it from fully seating against the gear/gasket. I took some fine sandpaper and put a slight chamfer on it to get rid of the flash, solid and leak free! If using the plastic spur make sure cases are flat and there is a nice chamfer on the screw holes so it doesn't wobble.

No shims under spider gears as mentioned, no o-rings under shock caps. Download latest instruction manual changes from tekno website and you will be good to go.

Enjoy!

Has anyone owned and raced either a rc8.2e or a mugen eco before buying and racing an eb48. Comparison notes if possible

I owned an rc8.2e and a nitro Mugen MBX6R. Sold them both to go with Kyosho and Tekno. Don't regret a thing. I love my Kyoshos and my eb48.

The rc8.2e was actually a very fast buggy. Much better than the rc8 geometry. I liked it a lot. But, I am faster and more consistent with the eb48. Also the parts are generally stronger on the eb48. As long as you have the updated ackerman plate and the updated outdrives, the eb48 is pretty much bomb proof.

I only had the nitro mbx6r, but I have driven a standard eco. Setup was a little difficult with the 6r. I was faster with the mbx6. The rear end was way too loose with the 6r and it took a lot of setup work to get it under control.

Some say the eb48 rear is loose as well with the stock setup (I agree), but it was very easy to get rear traction with only a few minor changes.

I HAD Associated, Losi, and Mugen. Now I have Kyosho and Tekno, and I don't see myself changing cars any time soon

Anyone try the competition suspension shock pistons? The black, blue, or red ones or shoukd i just run the kyosho 1.3x8

A quick comment on that. I can see why people would say that, as the typical 4wd way to drive is to brake hard and power out hard after corner rotation, in which case the rear often broke loose in both cases. However, I found that once I started driving it more like a 2wd buggy, I was able to hold tons of corner speed and go fast even with stock setup in looser sections of the track.

I'm waiting for my local track to not have lakes in it on the weekend so I can go tune a bit more and see if I can increase on power rear stability while I also try to tune out some of the rear chassis slap that happens with several of the jump sections of the track.

I have an RC8.2E and love the hell out of this buggy. Fast, and IMO has the best steering on the market. But the Tekno is better, wears a lot slower, reacts to setup changes, durable, I really love the straight line layout of this buggy not to mention the body reminds me of a fighter jet

My only complaint so far with the EB48 is that....

1. I would like to see the buggy a little bit wider than it is. I like the fat look like the RC8.2E.

Really hoping that Tekno comes out with a Truggy and SC.

A few people have said the rear is a little loose, but easy to get locked-in. So what is it most of you are doing to get the rear of the car hooked up? Springs, diffs, sway bars or camber location?

I went hubs forward, moved camber link in on hub and smaller rear swaybar. Mine was loose on exit and these changes fixed it but I think I went a little too far. Going to try moving hubs back to get a little more on power steering.

Good info thanks....like I said before new to Buggies and course racing so I might have random questions every now and then..thanks to everyone that responded

On mine I took out the anti squat and moved the top of the rear shocks one hole inward on the tower.

I have been thinking about getting the EB48 all the time since I first heard of it last winter Tower Hobbies just got a new shipment of the car. Do you know if it includes the changes mentioned above?

Yes.

How do we get our parts revised? Wait until they wear out or break or send them back now?

We are still waiting on the new parts to arrive (in spare parts packaging). Once they arrive, you will need your kit receipt (dated before November 1st, 2012) to obtain a coupon good on our site for 50% off the replacement parts. You will need to have a registered account on the Tekno RC website so we can assign the coupon to your email address (we won't put you on any mailing lists, don't worry).

We should have the parts soon, so if you want to get in on the replacement discount, have your receipt ready (i.e. scanned and ready to send to us). We'll let you know as soon as we get them in. Thanks.

I've searched and looked through the entire thread. I found someone stated they are now running a Hot Bodies metal servo arm.

Wondering what other people are using for a servo arm or are you all just staying with stock?