I made this template tool to check the front suspension droop on my SC10.



I found that the new big bore shocks differ in length slightly than my standard shocks, therefore the droop angle changed. Have any of you seen or used a tool like this?

Seems to me this is a good checker when making changes to shock limiter spacers, shock positions (both top and bottom). For example, how many spacers should I add if I move the lower shock to the outer holes for the same droop angle?

This template is 9 deg and matched perfectly to my current droop setting without deflecting the suspension (resting on shock limiter stops)

If you're talking about streamwood, nobody uses sways.

Yes, I'm talking about Streamwood, and I used one when I ran at the Breast Cancer Awareness Race and my truck handled well and I know Steve D. used one when he was there.

That's a pretty slick idea. I've used tools similar to the one below but its pretty clunky to try to hold it up under the car. This is the first I have heard anyone mention the droop changing with the big bores.

I didn't even know people checked the droop on short course trucks. Also hello everyone my names Scott. I just read this whole thread because i recently came across a FT SC10 which i am hoping to race.

A question I have is when is avid coming out with the batch 2 for the front truck big bores?
I see that they have the rears and their products are now even available at AMain (where I buy most of my stuff since it gets here in 2 days with free shipping).

Are the BB avids worth upgrading to even for a beginner i notice the stock springs i am running rub on the shock body?

also Ive been to the indoor track 3 times so far. was wondering if people had any advice as to when I should start racing...

If you are a new racer save your money for tires and practice time. Getting the right tire is 90% of the tuning battle. Should have listened to my own advice last weekend. Its never too early to start racing if there is a sportsman class available. You might feel a bit like a dork swerving from one side of the track to the other but you will be surrounded by others that are doing the same thing. You will quickly learn to control the car well enough to get around the track. From there its just more practice, practice, practice. Before you start putting money into the car you will need to be ready to know what needs to be upgraded. In order to get to that stage you need to be able to feel what's wrong with the car. Again, more practice. The springs rubbing drives me nuts too and the big bore spring upgrade is pretty cheap and easy to do. However, at this stage you aren't going to notice a huge difference by doing it. My $0.02...

Awesome. Ill wait to do the BB spring upgrade than because when I do I have decided to go with the ghea shock collars losi cups and both avid kits so for 80 bucks out the door I can get more tires.

One thing I do not fully understand is the electronical adjustments people make. For example the EPA, Drake brake and Brake%.

I have a futaba 3PL just ended up getting something cheap that is 2.4ghz. Figured itd be fine and I can always upgrade down the road. I have a 13.5t motor, started with a 17.5 but the tracks jumps are too big for that and Ill be starting in the rookie class anyway. Need to focus on gearing and tires next time I go cause it seems I have to single too many jumps that I wish i could double.

The track is indoor dirt about medium bite with my guess is a 50 foot straight. I am running some panther raptor tires atm not sure compound because I bought about 5 sets of tires used for 70 bucks. Didnt want to only have 1 new pair. plus all on +3mm hazards.

Evening fellas!
New guy on the block and have a question....I bought a used SC10 and Blitz from a fella...all is good but one thing I notice is the play in the front end of these trucks.
I see that the steering racks on both trucks have major play...I have new metal ones coming for that.

The problem seems to be where the tire meets the hex or behind the the hex...it seems to have play there. I grab the tire and it wiggles. A fella had a brand new tean edition SC10 and his does the same thing.
we tried to put a washer behind the tire and the hex and the hex and spindle...but the washer was just to thick and it did not work.
Any help on this?? Is this the way it was designed?

Dan

Maybe Bearings or a crush tube? is the the front or the rear?

Both

I will check again but spindle seems solid.

Are the hex's plastic or aluminum? I upgraded to the aluminim hex's and they not only feel more sturdy because they clamp better but the wheels also do not get stuck on them either.

They are plastic...I also have new metal ones coming. The only thing I wander is why the fella at the track Sunday has a brand new team edition and the also winggles. Not as much as mine but they did
wiggle.

Hey guys, a few quick questions. I spent the summer focusing on my RC8 nitro buggy. I raced my SC10, but I didn't really focus on it much, I just ran it as is with the few upgrades I did in the spring. Now that winter is knocking, I plan on racing at a local indoor track. I started throwing a few more upgrades at my SC10 and I was wondering if I am missing any essential upgrades. I started with an SC10RS. I have an arsenal of wheels and tires. I put in a Brushless Hobbies 120a esc and Tekin Redline 7.5t 6100kv sensored motor. J Concepts aluminum steering rack, and rear aluminum hubs. Milled aluminum motor plate. Spring kits front and rear. Solar D770 servo. (I have a Savox 1256TG in my buggy that I am considering stealing for the winter). I have a handful of spur gears and pinions. I have a few different bodies. Am I missing anything essential? Thanks guys.

you bought a used truck and we have no idea what the overall condition is. A worn sc10 will have slop in it. If you have a lot of slop in the rear check the bearing and make sure the crush tube is in there. Make sure the wheels are tight but still spin freely. I would assume that the truck is well worn, and I doubt the alum rack or hexes will help much. It is in your best interest to break down the truck. Download the manual from AE and break it down. Check for stripped screws, missing parts, bad bearings, broken parts and ensure the truck is properly assembled. I do this with every used truck I buy. Unless you bought it from a racer that kept it well maintained, chances are it is all jacked up.