Oops

What's up rc tech lookin at all these great maxx's makes me wanna post these.
Os21 maxx, 2.5r maxx (current project) and maxx pro 15 (unstarted project)

Nice trucks!

Hey, does anyone else's truck torque to the left under hard acceleration? Sometimes its hard to keep the truck straight and that can be a problem at 40mph. Ran into my foot and it almost took both feet out from under me.....

IIRC the truck will torque in the direction your motor or driveline spins.. I forget which, actually.

Nice center driveline carnage, too. Time for steel centers!

The way it spins, it lifts the right side of the truck in the air. I am guessing that the side in the air unloads and when the truck settles down that tire is spinning faster so it shoots the truck to the other side.

I thought about center CVDs but I think I will keep it stock plastic. I have a TON of those U joints layin around from the stock 3908 roller I bought on ebay. If I upgrade the center shafts, the diffs will be next. Instead of spending the money right now, Ill keep replacing the U joints. It takes me 5 mins to pull the skid off and get a new one installed. It lasted quite a few runs. I think an E-clip popped off and the pin slid to one side, then the motor finished the job and completely ripped it out.

You can put some thicker fluid in the diffs to help alleviate the drifting problem. Just don't expect it to completely go away. There is a gyroscopic effect going on between the center shafts and the mass of the rotor in the motor. Brushless just has so much instant torque that puts the tires on the edge of traction and allows it to come to light. It's why touring cars went to belt drive. I saw it with my 1520 powered Emaxx also, even on asphalt.

Thanks Overdrive

Asphalt is where it is most appearant (sp? I tried to spell that 8 million different ways and I cant get it right.... appearantly) On other surfaces it doesnt seem to have the grip to do it, it just drifts whichever way I toss it.

Just got my first tmaxx and I hit a mailbox I'm fixing it now and I got
The rpm arms One of the guys that works at superior hobbies said these will
Fit with no problem and they are stronger

They told me about this site and you guys would be helpful
Anything I should know or look out for

Thanks

Well the arms went on with no problems now it's time to go and see if I can drive it to and from myself without hitting another mailbox

Emaxx Brushless: love the truck but it does break...bulkheads all the time, stock shocks all the time. Have RPM installed everywhere and emotionally cannot go thru another set of bulks/skid plates. Now my truck does work for a living but I should I go for ally skid plate and stock bulks or ally bulkheads with rpm plastic braces and plastic skids with rpm skids on top or just ally ally ally.
I'll do the big bore shocks my rear keep separating on a fast run. Thoughts pls

i have the t maxx pro .15, all stock apart from the forward only conversion kit, recently acquired a fairly new 3.3 and resonator out of the new maxxes with the idea of swapping out the old, tired .15 for this new one for a bit more power. do i need to mod / upgrade anything to take the power increase? i had look at my mates maxx 3.3 and it is a lot bigger and wider than my little maxx and the driveshafts are twice the size on his one. any thoughts would be ace. ive really enjoyed driving my maxx and really dont want this engine to chew it up lol

The stock shocks stop breaking if you install aluminum shock caps. They won't explode anymore after you do that.

The plastic skidplates suck, and one failing can cause your chassis to crack. Get Integy Titanium ones, they are around $35/each. I have them on my 14+lb E-Maxx, great stuff.

Similarly, your rear bulkheads will never break with metal skidplates. However, your front ones will. Integy makes a set of 7075 Forged Aluminum bulkheads for around $30 (They are hard gunmetal anodized.) This will fix that issue.

With aluminum bulks, the braces don't matter much, however the RPM front brace is longer and will keep crap out from between the bulkheads, which is nice.

Similarly, don't trash your titanium skidplates with concrete rash and rocks. Just bolt the RPM Protectors over the top of them.

Where should I start??? You'll definitely need new diffs in no time since the old 2 screws can't take the tourq of the 3.3. Your drive shafts all around and down the center will twist and break rather quickly. The only part that will be able to take the heat is the FOC black trans. I did the same thing with my 2.5, I thought "hey ill get the 3.3 and drop it in with no problems"... Wrong. Needless to say that same 2.5 is now a fully spec'd out 3.3 4907 with every nut and bolt replaced with the 3.3 parts. The only part that lasted and was just replaced two days ago with the gray 3.3 trans was the FOC black trans which now lives in my parts bin 2.5 that I built from all my spares from building the 4907! If you take it easy and don't hammer on the truck I'm sure you'll get some use, just be ready to pull out your wallet as stuff breaks. Good luck bud!

So I'm slowly building an E-Maxx. I won the front/rear sections of a T-Maxx on eBay and already had some E-Maxx diffs which I've fitted instead of the T-Maxx diffs (incase it made any difference). Also have a chassis coming in the mail which should arrive sometime within the next week but I have a question about the center transmission/diff.
I see the transmissions on eBay go for around $50 and the center diff for $30. If I got a center diff, what else do I need? I'm trying to go the cheapest route possible.

Emaxx 3903/5/8 diffs are the strongest due to the metal inserts they put in the diff cup for the spider gears to ride on. Emaxx 3906 diffs aren't any stronger than a Tmaxx diff.

As for center diffs, do you mean the Traxxas cd or a 1/8 buggy type cd? The Traxxas cd installs into the stock transmission. A 1/8 buggy/truggy cd installs fairly easily but there's some special considerations. Number 1, you need a nitro cd assembly with 46t spur and a metal center skid plate. 46t is the largest spur that will fit between the chassis rails and raising it up is not really an option due to driveshaft angles. Now you will need to make a motor mount, a simple plate that attaches to the cd mount will work or you can go with something like this http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm
A typical electric cd buggy mount won't work since they mount the motor on the side of the cd and you need it up top. The stock plastic sliders won't attach to the cd without additional parts and cvd's or dog bones are easier, either way more cost.
That takes care of mounting and brings us to another issue, gearing. Maxx diffs are 2.85:1 while typical Truggy diffs are 4.3:1 ratio. The Maxx gets away with this ratio and it's big tires due to the additional gear reduction of the transmission. I'm not going to run the numbers but you could probably get away with small MT tires and 2200kv on 4s with a cd but you'd need a small 10t pinion. Forget about 6s or 6" and taller tires, the speed will be too high and the motor will overheat. The only way to prevent this is with a lower Kv motor or replacing the Maxx diffs with Truggy ratio ones.

Short answer, Emaxx trans is cheaper and easier.