Cain & Wild Cherry, appreciate the valuable info. I had the chance to drive a friends one time in a race and realy liked it...on an outdoor loose surface track. I hear it's even much better indoors. Again, thank you.

No prob rangerjkb. If you don't mind, can you get the setup info on the truck from your friend and post or have him post? Also, the name of the track? Would be cool to see what others have found for setups, etc. on things that we currently do have from AE as far as official team driver setups for given conditions.

yeah, I knew you were doing well with it, but you mentioned One Hobbies in your text, so I was not sure. I am glad you are doing well. Have any of the team drivers showed up at glitch? I know kinwald still drives down for CH on friday nights. Saw him there last week. I think Ryan m likes in PHX also.

I think acii posted a few pages back his setup for the sc10 with cdiff. Not sure how close it is to yours cain.

cool will go and see if I can find it.

Just for the record, I made a V2 ball diff using a drill press, dremal and a (very small) file, made the pins from cut down wheel pins.
Took about an hour of work to get it perfect, worked fine.
I could have made a jig to drill them in about five minutes if I was still running the truck.

Anybody can build anything if you set your mind to it and take your time, and have the patience.

I'm sure the real V2 would have had better testing and would work better, cost aside.

Even for outdoor loose stuff I ended up going back to the VTS, it seems smoother and put less stress on the top shaft As they tend to bend the threads thru all the pressure of a ball diff.

Just my 2 cents worth.

FYI the pin holes are not on the same BC as the ball holes, one of the reasons it works the way it does! Cameron and I tested 20 different pin positions before coming up with what is in the design. No way you can duplicate without a CNC mill! If your holes were not at the right location the VTS would work better. I have been a machinist for over 25 years hard to argue with experience! I do what you do but with more precision, same thing. Most people dont even bother trying to make their own so i applaud you for that!

I had a Sc104x4 when it came out. I sold it because i couldnt get it to handle the way i liked it. I just picked up another to run this winter. I understand the c diff. but what is this 8mm mod. confused and interested. My plan mods are the Ft upgrade kit for now, then the C-diff later. Whats a good gearing for a 4.5 550 novak on a medium size clay track. Whats a good diff fluid to run in the diffs?

You will probably get a variety of people telling you to use the search function. To be honest when I did I got a variety of different assumptions on the 8mm mod. So I went and tried it. Basically you are adding a riser to the rear hub that raises the position of the ball stud height. Using the B4 carbon risers, the "stock" positions available if you look at pics become the inner ball stud position on the hub (as far as position goes) and even 1 spot inside more.

From what I saw by trying it, it appears to generate more rear traction, this was with an inner 5mm to 7mm ball stud height position and the outer location on the hub riser.

From what I have heard, people who use it on higher traction conditions had traction roll issues.

what I didn't like about the way I did it was that the position of the ball stud on the hub is more inside that I wanted, shortening the length of rear link. This seemed to make the vehicle square up a bit more than I wanted.

i think the exotek setup may be a better way to go if you really want to use that kind of mod.

Personally, since I would have gone to this mod for more grip in the rear, the M2C toe in blocks in the 3.5 degree setting gave me exactly what I wanted for grip.

No, it's not the radio gear. My servo (hitec 7940) is fresh and has no slop or centering issues. My Ko propo Helios is working properly as well, since I run 4 other classes and none of those cars have the same problem. Something is not right on the truck but I'm still trying to find what it is.

Does anyone make a-arms for our truck other than rpm and stockers? As most guys know the stockers flex too much. The rpm ones I have only ran 7-8 battery packs and then the inner hinge pin holes wallowed out. Don't really think I should have to replace my a-arms every 2-3 race days.

Is there any diff without slidebearing that fits in the sc10 4x4?

8mm rear camber mod is great for med to high traction conditions .

Reduces chassis roll & less rear grip .....

Way it works /....

Helps the truck stay flat in the sweeper & slide a bit instead of digging in & traction rolling over.....


550 Novak 4.5 = 15t or 16t

recommend Ae diff oil

ft diff oil = 25,000k

rear diff = 7000k

hey wc my novak 550 4.5 dont like a 15 tooth it ran ok but the gtb2 esc was hot iam at 12 62 and it ok now

Vito I use a 16t myself with the Novak 550 , maybe you have the timing boosted way up ?


12 T way to slow

I do use a 12T on my Reedy 550 4.5 however ..