RC10B4.1 FT/WC
you will not want a wide washer. as it might hit the shock cap. the ball stud washers are probably a good diameter. I would assume the best size would be about the same width as the aluminum shock bushings.
There will be constant questions about:
1) Springs. Still the springs. Which brand, what rate, mine are better, no they're not, ad nauseam.
2) Which offset spring cups you'll be using (I just threw up in my mouth a little thinking about the questions/answers/debates about this one)
3) The new hat bushings. They're great. They're crap. You have to sand 0.004 mm off the top. I hope so-and-so makes some for $18 a pair because that'll be way better. Blah blah blah blah blah
4) There aren't as good as/these are better than all the other BB shocks out there. Also, V2s are better. V1s are better.
5) The springs are rubbing! No they're not! What shims do I get, how do I shave the tower, is there a new tower, when is a new tower coming, I can't believe there's no new tower, these shims change the roll center or something...
6) I like the collars. I don't. Ghea collars are still better. Avid spring cups are better. No they're not. Ugh.
7) Please release some Proline black shock shafts so I can spend another seventy bucks! Please!! SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!!!
8) How do I anodize the blue parts on these things? I like gold. I don't. Mine are red. Blue is fast. Blue is slow.
And, of course:
9) When are the BB V2's coming out?
The problem is the top cap is bigger than the V2s. I only had to shave a little off the front B4.1 tower to prevent the Ghea collars from rubbing and nothing had to be done on the B44.1 towers. To do the same for these new shocks will require more material to be removed and/or the use of spacers. Most (if not all) the pictures I've seen of BBs on pro cars show mods to the tower(s). That tells me there is something they don't like about using the spacers. Either way, I'll wait and see what the masses experience.
Hello???? The washer goes on B4 the bushing does. The cap won't go past the upper bushing.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 298
From: Redmond, WA
You want them wider due to force on your shock mount, which will now have more leverage than it did before. You want to transfer energy into the tower.*
Last edited by EricJ; 09-14-2012 at 10:24 AM. Reason: *I'm trying really hard to explain this in layman's terms...
even better lol.
Robinson Racing. I have been running there pinions for years and they have been really good.
I know guys like to run pinions for a whole year or some even longer but if I run the same gears I will change them out and throw them away after 5-6 races. Same goes for the spur. It is a couple $$'s to spend but it is better then going to a big race or even a club race and having a DNF in a main.
I know guys like to run pinions for a whole year or some even longer but if I run the same gears I will change them out and throw them away after 5-6 races. Same goes for the spur. It is a couple $$'s to spend but it is better then going to a big race or even a club race and having a DNF in a main.
I am confused as to why you would need to toss pinions and/or spurs away after so few runs ? If you mesh properly, have your gears covered, and inspect them each day you run and clean with an exacto blade or ultra fine sandpaper (if need be), they should last a very long time.
I like the Robinson aluminum "silent" pinions. They are only like $1-$2 more than standard ones.
I am confused as to why you would need to toss pinions and/or spurs away after so few runs ? If you mesh properly, have your gears covered, and inspect them each day you run and clean with an exacto blade or ultra fine sandpaper (if need be), they should last a very long time.
I am confused as to why you would need to toss pinions and/or spurs away after so few runs ? If you mesh properly, have your gears covered, and inspect them each day you run and clean with an exacto blade or ultra fine sandpaper (if need be), they should last a very long time.



