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Old 08-25-2012 | 06:18 PM
  #8041  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
How do u like that eb48 compared to the losi??? But yes I just can't see getting rid of them and I will be going nitro also.
I haven't finished building it yet....I have to wait for a couple of special parts to show up before I can finish it. So far it looks real nice
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Old 08-26-2012 | 09:27 AM
  #8042  
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Default Diff Oil Question

Need some advise here please. I changed my setup to the Mike Truhe Saugus (Hot Rod Hobbies) setup - that is the same track I go to so I thought why not see how it works. That setup calls for 7 front, 10 center and 3 rear diff oil. Now the track was pretty dry and loamy and my tires were not great, but even so with this setup I had trouble keeping the rear end from sliding around.

It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2012 | 11:34 AM
  #8043  
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Just wanted to give a little shout out to rcrenew for their drive pin tool, I bought it last week after hearing about here with good reviews, it works easier than I thought it would, took about 5 or 10 minutes tops, thanks for the tip guys. http://www.rcrenew.com/tools.html
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Old 08-26-2012 | 12:17 PM
  #8044  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
Need some advise here please. I changed my setup to the Mike Truhe Saugus (Hot Rod Hobbies) setup - that is the same track I go to so I thought why not see how it works. That setup calls for 7 front, 10 center and 3 rear diff oil. Now the track was pretty dry and loamy and my tires were not great, but even so with this setup I had trouble keeping the rear end from sliding around.

It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!



Tires are the first thing you need to have for a setup and most important. A bad setup with good tires is better to have. Find out what tires top guys running and go from there. If rear end sliding out on you i would run 7k center and 2k in rear be easier to dive and have more rear side bite.
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Old 08-26-2012 | 01:15 PM
  #8045  
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Originally Posted by 84 GT 5.0
I can say the BCE pro chassis is worth every cent, I was/am a tester and the fit and finish of the chassis is outstanding
Hey Losi E Guys Thank you for the nice words We will have more of the L20 E
Chassis available this upcoming week We do appreciate all of you guys that jumped on board , If you guys get a chance do you mind posting up a good
base set up with Batt info and gearing etc,(track type)
We do not have much in our data base for the E car at this time,
and have been getting many request for set ups ,
I will have the info posted on our new site soon..
BCESPEED L20 E PRO
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Old 08-26-2012 | 02:32 PM
  #8046  
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Originally Posted by rcguy76559
Tires are the first thing you need to have for a setup and most important. A bad setup with good tires is better to have. Find out what tires top guys running and go from there. If rear end sliding out on you i would run 7k center and 2k in rear be easier to dive and have more rear side bite.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the tires were not great but the track was so abrasive you would not want to run new tires for practice or they would be toast real quick. I feel it has to be the new diff oil combo because with similar tires on the same track with the old combo the rear never slid around like that. I'll try the 7k in the middle like you suggested and see how that changes things. Thanks again for taking the time to help me out.
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Old 08-26-2012 | 02:44 PM
  #8047  
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Originally Posted by NITROALM
Hey Losi E Guys Thank you for the nice words We will have more of the L20 E
Chassis available this upcoming week We do appreciate all of you guys that jumped on board , If you guys get a chance do you mind posting up a good
base set up with Batt info and gearing etc,(track type)
We do not have much in our data base for the E car at this time,
and have been getting many request for set ups ,
I will have the info posted on our new site soon..
BCESPEED L20 E PRO
Hey Bill,

Here is my basic setup for my Losi EP buggy with the BCE chassis:

Diff fluids: 5-7-2
Shocks pistons: Blue CSI
Shock fluids: Losi 60wt front, Losi 50wt rear
Shock springs: Green fronts, Black rears
Battery: Maxamps 4S soft packs
Battery location: All the way forward
Motor: Tekin 1900Kv
Gearing: 15/44t

I use this basic setup for our large outdoor Nitro tracks here in CO. The remainder of my settings are from the Drake Std. setup sheet for this buggy (camber, toe, etc.). I have everything on the market to keep the weight down from titanium tie rods, aluminum CVD axles, lightened/hardened outdrives, etc.
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Old 08-26-2012 | 07:45 PM
  #8048  
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Any one know if the FTW night fox body will fit this buggy nicely?
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Old 08-27-2012 | 08:29 PM
  #8049  
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58
Thanks a ton i look forward to it!
Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread-bull-dog-3.jpg

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread-bull-dog-2.jpg Here's that picture, I can't paint so no laughing, lol, 2012 bull dog.
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Old 08-27-2012 | 11:59 PM
  #8050  
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white border around windows would look really good nice body. I cant paint ether
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Old 08-28-2012 | 08:06 AM
  #8051  
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Just picked up a 8ight 2.0 I still got to pick up the elec. conversion but what othe MUST hop ups are needed to have a race winning 8ight-e 2.0
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Old 08-28-2012 | 12:07 PM
  #8052  
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I picked up this RTR 8ight E 2.0 for $200 today with a few 4S packs, extra tires, and a 2 extra bodies.


8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr

Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!

Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.

Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!
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Old 08-28-2012 | 01:47 PM
  #8053  
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Exclamation Send the Tekin in right away

Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
I picked up this RTR 8ight E 2.0 for $200 today with a few 4S packs, extra tires, and a 2 extra bodies.


8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr

Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!

Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.

Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!
DONT USE THAT TEKIN COMMING APART......it will fail . Send it in .. before you have a fire. Just my 2 cents. Tekin will treat you right! Congrads on that killer deal!
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Old 08-29-2012 | 10:41 AM
  #8054  
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Originally Posted by dangerwr
Hey Bill,

Here is my basic setup for my Losi EP buggy with the BCE chassis:

Diff fluids: 5-7-2
Shocks pistons: Blue CSI
Shock fluids: Losi 60wt front, Losi 50wt rear
Shock springs: Green fronts, Black rears
Battery: Maxamps 4S soft packs
Battery location: All the way forward
Motor: Tekin 1900Kv
Gearing: 15/44t

I use this basic setup for our large outdoor Nitro tracks here in CO. The remainder of my settings are from the Drake Std. setup sheet for this buggy (camber, toe, etc.). I have everything on the market to keep the weight down from titanium tie rods, aluminum CVD axles, lightened/hardened outdrives, etc.
Thank you Will for the info++
Also Here is a pic from one of our guys ...Looks Great

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Old 08-29-2012 | 01:44 PM
  #8055  
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I'm sure someone listed them somewhere but I've not yet found it.. I'm looking for the hop up part numbers required for the Drake setup.

Does buying the adjustable front pivots add any benefit if they are set to 0 in the setup? Thinking I could skip this for now?
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