Ya that Tekin will flame up if no repaired correctly.

LOSA1754 I believe this is what u are looking for.

Smart man. Skip those altogether as they are a liability in my opinion. Using those up front creates a weak spot on this buggy. Same setup as the stock stuff if running 0's all around. If you take a hit with the front the hinge pin will rip out of these adjustable hinge pin braces and ruin them. The 1.0 versions were a better design in my opinion. Much easier to "spit" a pin with these adjustables with the plastic inserts over the stock braces.

Here is a good rule of thumb I use; unless you can run a carbon front shock tower do not use these! This simply means that you do not wreck hard and your buddies know how to drive. Cheers!

I just got my BCE and got it put together. Question for ya tho since you're here!

My kit came with a washer to raise the motor mount/diff a little off the chassis so the center gear doesn't hit. Threw me for a loop because the gear kept rubbing and binding. Turns out that the washers are wide enough such that it sticks out past the mount and rubs the gear. Essentially it eliminates any of the machined pocket below the gear. I thought it was hitting the chassis, but after I realized it was hitting the washer I dremeled it and all is good.

I was wondering if anyone else reported that issue? Seems like narrower washers are the key, so I'm keeping my eye out for some.

It does NOT rub on the metal gears since those are spaced out from the motor plate side, but the plastic ones have wider gears and sit real snug against the motor plate.

Thanks,
GO

I run them and never " spit" one yet. I like the adjustability though. To each his own though.

For the SCTE they came out with longer hing pins to compensate for the larger angles created by using these. Have they done the same for the eight?

Any here try putting shims between the wheel hex and bearing to remove some slop in the wheel? I think 8mm shims would work.

Yes, Kyosho sells a .1 .2 .3 kit that works the ticket.....BUT be very careful as to How much you shim. If you go too tight you'll blow bearing's left right and center. There's an Acceptable amount of slop that Needs to be there for thing's to function properly.

Mine were the right size so that the plastic spur did not rub but had a helluva time getting the screws to fit through the I.D.!!

Thanks for the tip.

Hi Go:.. Yes we have been trying to find the perfect spacer,
but as you and Will have mentioned, we have a nice small one
but the ID is a pita to get the screw through, and the large
will rub on the plastic gears your way of grinding the edge off
is great.. it will allow good clearance for both gears. Also a little tip is once
you get yours set up, just put a little spec of CA and they will stay right
in place.. Thanks for your guys input.. keep us posted on you track/Racing
updates

Thanks! I'll get a pic up soon. Car ran best it has all season. Admittedly I'm not the best 1/8 driver, but I managed to qual 4th at our ROAR event with the chassis. I'm really impressed, great job.

As a side note, I'm going to start a quest for that perfect spacer. If I find something that works really well for me I'll share.

I'm thinking something like this:
http://www.exotekracing.com/22-22sct...ranny-spacers/

Father in law works at a machine shop. If I can get his ear I was actually thinking of creating basically a single piece hard gasket of sorts to give a nice fit that would be really easy to work with/install

I've got to ask...

Tekno v4 or BCE chassis?

I searched and only found comparisons between Tekno and Losi. Between those two I like how the Tekno sounds but the BCE is about the same price so it's an option...

My 8ight that I picked up used could use a new chassis and right low I'm leaning toward the Tekno because it gives me the option for mechanical brakes, lower cg (compared to Losi conversion, and comes with more stuff so I feel like in getting more for my money haha.

Losi where its at, Mechanical brakes are Not needed what so ever Nor does the Standard "E" layout need to e changed.

If I have some extra time (not likely) I can punch something out in CAD and print it on our high-end 3D printer (material is like ABS). The link you sent would be an ideal solution and is what I could use to model up for the 8ight. As an alternative an expensive mold a waterjet could be used to cut these parts outta a sheet of CF.