http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

1st post, thats the way i always understood it. That hudy manual looks like its been through and back from google translate a few times.

Yeah, I understand what you are saying. I always thought longer = more forgiving and shorter = more twitchy. I went to my alternate source JQ The Guide. here is what it says. Seems to agree with your link. Source: http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide

5.6 Upper Links

The upper links are really valuable tuning aids. Most cars respond well to changes to the upper links. I think it is important to remember that the upper links, eventhough they are at different ends of the car, actually need to be set up so they work together. If the links, front vs. back, are set up very differently, long/short, small angle/large angle, chances are that the cars front and rear ends will roll, and act so differently, that the car feels like it is fighting itself. I try to always keep the links similar, as this makes the car work in the most controllable fashion.

In general, longer links make the car more calm, and gives it more traction, and actually even improves forward bite. Having the links as far in on the shock towers as possible, makes for the most stable car. Raising the link on the tower, has a similar effect of lengthening it, in that it gives more traction.

Short links make a car more responsive, and make it square up better and faster when exiting a corner. It can feel like it has more traction, and ultimately it does, but it is more uneven. The car will have a lot of traction up to a point, and then it will suddenly loose it, spin out or similar, so it won't be as easy to drive. Lowering the link on the tower will have a similar effect, as a shorter link, and will make the car be more responsive, and have less traction.



5.7 Front Upper Link

The front upper link is a good tuning option on most cars. I will discuss a front upper link, not arm, but all of this applies to the cars with front upper arms also. Changing the front upper link changes how the car turns, responds to driver input, and how much traction the front end has.

In general, a long front link will make the car more calm, it will have more traction. A shorter link will make it react and change direction faster.

Lowering the front link on the tower will increase steering into the corner, but can also make the car flip over easier, specially while cornering. Raising the front link on the tower will make the car more stable, less steering into the corner. Going too high, may make it hook suddenly as the car slows down as the car is negotiating the corner.

Lengthening and shortening the link on the tower, or on the hub, has a similar effect. This is a bit of a hard nut to crack, but I feel, that the further in the link is on the tower, the more stable and consistent the car is. The further out the link is on the tower, the more non-linear, and inconsisten the car is, even if the length and angle of the link is kept the same. By nonlinear I mean, that it acts different at different speeds, or if traction changes, pushes, then turns, or similar. It will also roll less and have less traction. On the hub, it seems different, on the hub, it seems like it stays consistent, and the effect is more evident. A long link on the tower or hub is more stable, gives more traction, more steering mid to exit of the corner, and a short link is more responsive and gives more steering into the corner, and less overall traction.



5.8 Rear Upper Link

The rear link I find, is more critical to get right than the front. When trying different rear link locations, and you get it spot on, it feels like the car does everything better. The rear link will mainly determine the amount of traction the car has, and how it slides when cornering.

Lowering the link on the tower, will give the car more steering, as the rear will start sliding more in corners as you turn. It will also square up better when accelerating out of corners. Raising the link on the tower will add traction and reduce steering.

Lowering the complete link gives more traction, but the car seems to maintain more steering, than when lengthening the link.

In general, a long rear link makes the car more stable, have less steering, and be more predictable and easy to drive. A short link gives more steering, and initially the car can feel like it has more traction, but it will lose traction suddenly, instead of a predictable way.

Again, the further in the link is on the tower, the more stable and consistent the car feels, the further out it is, the more non-liner and and inconsistent it feels. The car will roll less and have less overall traction.

A longer link on the hub or tower will give more traction, and less steering, the car will be more stable. A shorter link will give more steering, specially into and mid corner, and the car will square up and accelerate straight better.

Definitely, if you have a very short front link its going to be very twitchy. same for the rear, its going to feel very springy and want to dump over on itself. the longer link is going to be very lazy feeling.

sweet, I just need to figure out how to make my 4x4 have a link that goes to china, lol. grrrr.

I just got done with a ball diff rebuild. Sanded my rings, ceramic balls, nice and smooth again at last. I also did the rear U-Brace mod to see how it feels. I haven't ever given it a try, but hear it makes a noticeable difference. Im looking forward to giving the truck a run on the new setup.

This is just my opinion but when u have a gear diff as I have and I ran about 3 packs through it once u hear the clicking usually its too late. And as the other guy said you need to get more shims but really it should be shimmed before you ever use it. When you tear the tranny apart check the gears and make sure they arent stripped or broken. The clicking sound is the gear stripping and slipping passed the other gears. Go with a ball diff for 29 bucks and you wont be dissapointed.

Anbody have any thoughts on a stock sc10 body where to cut or make vent holes. I want to make some but I dont want to make too many or in the wrong place. Anybody have any good ideas.

How do you set the factory team pads for 1 inch? And if they are glazed over what grit sand paper do u scruff them up with?

I use 320 grit dry/wet to scuff my pads.

When I run my practice body (stock sc10) it's got 6 holes under the windshield and about 8 holes in the rear. The holes are probably 1/2"-3/4" wide and evenly spaced. It works really well

Sounds good

Don't stop at the first post. The rest of the thread goes on to expound on what is right and what is wrong about that first post, which is very misleading.

You can sand them (200-500), flip them and/or scrap them with a razor blade.
My first option is to flip them but if they have already been flipped and I'm in a pinch, I'll use a hobby knife to scrap the glazing off. If all else fails, buy new ones.

I caution anyone when reading that thread. With that said, this is not the thread to debate it and if I wanted to, I would post in it.
Read it and if you like it, follow it. This is the SC10 thread and I try to help others who post in this thread about SC10's.

What do you guys feel is the best for rear toe?
At the inner hinge or the hub?
I have seen it debated with TC cars but not off road
Thanks and God Bless

well there was a really long thread a while back, but I think the outcome was inside. That being said, a lot of guys run the .5 alum hubs.