Man u can try 35 oil in rear and 1 or 2 limiters in rear also. U can also remove one of the washers from under the front ballstud on thee tower as well

I must have forgotten the limiters in the rear. There's 3 of them.

I run on a smooth high bite clay track and run 6 limiters and 2 limiters in rear and my truck dnt push nowhere on the track great off pwr and on pwr steering. In fact I use to over rotate so I had to numb it out a little and get more traction and now it is dialed and has bn for a while now with upkeep and right tires for the conditions

I'm sure anyone who races with me can vouch for how well I maintain my cars.

There are really only three parts where the truck is pushing enough to concern me. First is on the first turn which is a 180 right. Second is a small, higher speed sweeper and lastly there is a 150* turn right after a tabletop which makes the truck swing wide.

Is it bad if I need to keep my trim at either around 49 left or 80 right?

I'm using a savov servo and can't find a good center so I need to use a ton of trim.. Moving it one spline over gets the above results.

I'm using the F servo horn that came already installed on the associated servo out of the box. Savox says to use the servo horns that fit Futaba's.

It takes a lot of force to get the horn off and on and I'm always worried about ruining the servo when trying to adjust it.

Should I get a new servo horn or mess with the turnbuckles or something?

One more question, when finding the FDR, after dividing the gears, what number do I use to multiply? In case I worded that bad for my touring car it's something like: 48/82x2.05

try adjusting your turn buckles to get them equal to each other so that one side isn't longer than the other. Measure the turn buckle between the ends of the ball cups and try to get it as close to each as possible. Also try adjusting the ball the linkage between the servo horn and the bell crank as well. This has to do a lot with getting a perfect "ZERO'd" out steering.. Put the ball cup on either the servo horn 1st or the bell crank(easier if you put it on the bell crank) and then zero out your servo with your radio, make sure that your sub trim is at zero as well. Then turn the ball cup that is not on in or out so that it will fit on the other ball stud with having the wheels straight.

The spline count is the same for both AE servo's, Savox, and futaba's which is a 25. So it being a tight/snug fit is a good thing. You might want to switch out to a aluminum servo horn later but the plastic is fine for now, they just strip out from time to time which is why the aluminum(Racers Edge is my preference).

U can lower ur ride height a little too, it dnt show where ur ft shocks are on the tower, try all the way inside. Lenghten ur wheelbase. Try a littlw toe out in the front no more than 1 deg, stiffen the rear oil a tad, before u make changes check to see if your diff is too tight if so u can push like a tank. And when tuning make one adjustment at a tikme and test to see if headed in the right direction bro n good luck

Ive been having a heck of a time make faster laps up to last night. I run on a huge indoor track. The fast guys push about 23-25 seconds a lap to give you an idea. I was at 28-29 and just couldnt figure it out.

I endup up only doing one simple thing that shaved off 4 seconds a lap average! I put my shocks all the way in at the tower and out up front at the arm, in at the rear. The rest is more or less the same as a lot of you run. I also run an 8.5 Tekin motor.

Question is, I haven't done the u-brace shave and wondered just how big of a difference it makes? I have extras and want to get an idea of just what it does?

Shaving the ubrace and c hubs go together to complete the mod and what it does is help lock in the rear of the truck a tad bit more, it lowers the camcber links in the rear

For the track you run on (awesome track by the way, I've been there once) the rear of the truck will square up quicker and feel like it generates more side bite. Its not so great when the track is low grip because when it does let go it lets go in a pretty harsh manner.

Just iIn case anybody is looking for a CLEAN SC10.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...d-sc10-ft.html

i was wondering if any of you guys run weights in the front of your sc10 to keep the front end down when jumping? i have been racing my 4x4 for a while and when i switch back to the 2wd i have a hard time not looping out over all the jumps....any suggestions??

it did help brings the nose down for me, along with holes in the body to counter the parachute effect

Tip from last week run:
"Always check your wheel nuts, or else you will strip your wheel and/or your hex adapters"

anyone seen this yet? it didn't say that it will fit sc10 but since it's fits b4.1, I think it would.

Avid Triad Slipper Clutch


http://www.avidrc.com/company/news/1...tion-List.html

No weights here. I guess I'm use to the 2wd, the 4x4's feel like the nose is to heavy....
You can try weights, but you can also ease off the throttle on the jump faces.