Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread
#8042
Need some advise here please. I changed my setup to the Mike Truhe Saugus (Hot Rod Hobbies) setup - that is the same track I go to so I thought why not see how it works. That setup calls for 7 front, 10 center and 3 rear diff oil. Now the track was pretty dry and loamy and my tires were not great, but even so with this setup I had trouble keeping the rear end from sliding around.
It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!
It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!
#8043
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 866
From: Pacific Northwest
Just wanted to give a little shout out to rcrenew for their drive pin tool, I bought it last week after hearing about here with good reviews, it works easier than I thought it would, took about 5 or 10 minutes tops, thanks for the tip guys.
http://www.rcrenew.com/tools.html
http://www.rcrenew.com/tools.html
#8044
Need some advise here please. I changed my setup to the Mike Truhe Saugus (Hot Rod Hobbies) setup - that is the same track I go to so I thought why not see how it works. That setup calls for 7 front, 10 center and 3 rear diff oil. Now the track was pretty dry and loamy and my tires were not great, but even so with this setup I had trouble keeping the rear end from sliding around.
It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!
It seems like this setup may transfer too much power to the rear? With power on it was like doing "buggy drifting" around the track. Again maybe my tires were partly to blame but going up this much weight seemed to make the rear slide all over. Please advise any thoughts and what might work better in the center? Since I just rebuilt all the diffs I'd rather not change the front and rear unless I have to right now. Thanks!
Tires are the first thing you need to have for a setup and most important. A bad setup with good tires is better to have. Find out what tires top guys running and go from there. If rear end sliding out on you i would run 7k center and 2k in rear be easier to dive and have more rear side bite.
#8045
Chassis available this upcoming week We do appreciate all of you guys that jumped on board , If you guys get a chance do you mind posting up a good
base set up with Batt info and gearing etc,(track type)
We do not have much in our data base for the E car at this time,
and have been getting many request for set ups ,
I will have the info posted on our new site soon..

BCESPEED L20 E PRO
#8046
Tires are the first thing you need to have for a setup and most important. A bad setup with good tires is better to have. Find out what tires top guys running and go from there. If rear end sliding out on you i would run 7k center and 2k in rear be easier to dive and have more rear side bite.
#8047
Hey Losi E Guys Thank you for the nice words We will have more of the L20 E
Chassis available this upcoming week We do appreciate all of you guys that jumped on board , If you guys get a chance do you mind posting up a good
base set up with Batt info and gearing etc,(track type)
We do not have much in our data base for the E car at this time,
and have been getting many request for set ups ,
I will have the info posted on our new site soon..
BCESPEED L20 E PRO

Chassis available this upcoming week We do appreciate all of you guys that jumped on board , If you guys get a chance do you mind posting up a good
base set up with Batt info and gearing etc,(track type)
We do not have much in our data base for the E car at this time,
and have been getting many request for set ups ,
I will have the info posted on our new site soon..

BCESPEED L20 E PRO

Here is my basic setup for my Losi EP buggy with the BCE chassis:
Diff fluids: 5-7-2
Shocks pistons: Blue CSI
Shock fluids: Losi 60wt front, Losi 50wt rear
Shock springs: Green fronts, Black rears
Battery: Maxamps 4S soft packs
Battery location: All the way forward
Motor: Tekin 1900Kv
Gearing: 15/44t
I use this basic setup for our large outdoor Nitro tracks here in CO. The remainder of my settings are from the Drake Std. setup sheet for this buggy (camber, toe, etc.). I have everything on the market to keep the weight down from titanium tie rods, aluminum CVD axles, lightened/hardened outdrives, etc.
#8052
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,981
I picked up this RTR 8ight E 2.0 for $200 today with a few 4S packs, extra tires, and a 2 extra bodies.

8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr
Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!
Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.
Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!

8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr
Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!
Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.
Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!
#8053
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,120
From: West Palm Beach, Florida USA
I picked up this RTR 8ight E 2.0 for $200 today with a few 4S packs, extra tires, and a 2 extra bodies.

8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr
Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!
Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.
Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!

8-25MMR###5 by nicholask1993, on Flickr
Center diff blew up so I'm going to order a complete from eBay for $30 and have it fully up and running!
Not sure of the servo but it's worth $105 new and isn't a Savox, has a Tekin RX8 that needs to be zip-tied together to prevent it from shutting down (probably loose cap so I should be able to fix it if not it's only $75 for Tekin to repair), and lastly it has a Castle Neu 1800Kv motor.
Picking it up tomorrow and will start my full complete absolute tear down to know exactly what will need replacing... So freaking excited!!!
#8054
Hey Bill,
Here is my basic setup for my Losi EP buggy with the BCE chassis:
Diff fluids: 5-7-2
Shocks pistons: Blue CSI
Shock fluids: Losi 60wt front, Losi 50wt rear
Shock springs: Green fronts, Black rears
Battery: Maxamps 4S soft packs
Battery location: All the way forward
Motor: Tekin 1900Kv
Gearing: 15/44t
I use this basic setup for our large outdoor Nitro tracks here in CO. The remainder of my settings are from the Drake Std. setup sheet for this buggy (camber, toe, etc.). I have everything on the market to keep the weight down from titanium tie rods, aluminum CVD axles, lightened/hardened outdrives, etc.
Here is my basic setup for my Losi EP buggy with the BCE chassis:
Diff fluids: 5-7-2
Shocks pistons: Blue CSI
Shock fluids: Losi 60wt front, Losi 50wt rear
Shock springs: Green fronts, Black rears
Battery: Maxamps 4S soft packs
Battery location: All the way forward
Motor: Tekin 1900Kv
Gearing: 15/44t
I use this basic setup for our large outdoor Nitro tracks here in CO. The remainder of my settings are from the Drake Std. setup sheet for this buggy (camber, toe, etc.). I have everything on the market to keep the weight down from titanium tie rods, aluminum CVD axles, lightened/hardened outdrives, etc.
Also Here is a pic from one of our guys ...Looks Great

#8055
I'm sure someone listed them somewhere but I've not yet found it.. I'm looking for the hop up part numbers required for the Drake setup.
Does buying the adjustable front pivots add any benefit if they are set to 0 in the setup? Thinking I could skip this for now?
Does buying the adjustable front pivots add any benefit if they are set to 0 in the setup? Thinking I could skip this for now?






, 2012 bull dog.