As said before, get a 13t or a 14t max. 13 would be best though.
12t is really low gearing for running on the street, you can go higher. Small steps, not a big jump like 12t to 15t.

If you don't have a fan on your esc, get one.

Does the V3.0 firmware for the LRP SXX TC V2 actually make the motor run cooler as mentioned in the firmware manual?

Also, regarding Mode 2 "Feel/Active Torque Control" in V3.0 firmware, are settings 1 - 3 for the 540 X-12 motors or the 550 X-12L motors or both?

I was running my SC10 4x4 with the LRP SXX TC V2 (w/ V1.5 firmware set @ 1,6,0,0) and the LRP X-12L 4.5 turn motor geared 12/62 and had motor can temps of 170 - 175 F after a 6-8min run...

i think 13 will be as high as i can go she was hot with the 15.

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Someone posted that they also ran the redline 4.5 and what gearing to start with on it.
I found that i have 18/62 on the truck atm which seems a little tall.
Any suggestions?
Running the HW 120 amp speedy with it

I use a 14t in mine with the tekin 4.5 550

back to a 12 tooth my truck likes it better

Cool, thanks WC
I knew it was one of the WCs but not sure which
Will get some pinions around that area then for fine tuning of the rollout then
Truck goes pretty well with the motor
A bit quicker than i was expecting
Anyone use the aluminium rear hubs from ST RC?
Got some i'd like to try but going to run the truck for a race day or 2 to see how it goes and have a point of reference
Got to have some bling

12t for small high bite tracks. I run 14t outdoors with it temping at 155 deg. So maybe get 12-14t pinions

Thought I would share another option with everyone. I am sure this is nothing new to most but just in case. Bear in mind I only have to run 5 minute qualifiers and mains so the 7+ minutes I get out of the shorty is fine. This arrangement is far lighter than the going trend but on both our pavement and outdoor dirt tracks it suits me just fine.

My final weight w/body is 2616.9g or 92.31oz if you prefer. The F/R is 44.9/55.1% with a cross weight of 50.4%. I have been able to get a little closer to a 50/50 F/R by moving the battery forward the final 3/4" but found that a little heaver rear bias works better for me. There is no added weight on here and the springs collars are set equal side to side. When I feel extremely OCD'ish I can get the wedge lower with spring adjustments but that seems to change every time you set the truck on the scales.

In any case if you are looking for a more balanced truck and don't need the extra weight or higher run times, here is an option.

I'm very new to 4x4 and I built my truck and went and ran it and the truck would make a very loud almost clicking noise so i just assumed it was the clicker on the front slipper. so i tightened that as much as i could but it still did it, but it got better. I asked a 4x4 savy racer at my track what it could be and he said the belt could be slipping so i tightened the belt and it got better again but it still occurs sometimes. It only happens once or twice every lap and when it does happen the brakes are fully crammed on and/or hitting a braking bump going into a corner causing the rear wheels to be in the air but the front tires still on the ground, and on the brakes, it makes a the noise loud. any ideas?? I'm racing tomorrow so i'd like to get it fixed if its something that needs to be fixed. Thanks guys!

my novak 4.5 trun 550 dose not like a 15 tooth gear it was hot and the esc was not in the safe zone over 150 on the esc

Looking good Ross!
Im not sure how long those stickers are going to last though!

You may have answered this already but are you running a FT? If not do you have a chassis brace? If it is only really happening under breaking and you do not have a chassis brace it may be due to chassis flex allowing the belt to loosen and skip.