2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-20-2012 | 08:14 PM
#1696
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 277
From: Ohio
I am surprised to see how many people are going with a heavier shock oil. I went with 32.5 in the front and 27.5 in the back and on a hard packed dusty indoor track that is a little blown out it is about perfect.
08-20-2012 | 10:56 PM
#1702
08-20-2012 | 11:15 PM
#1703
You might be able to keep it manageable by using the tekno electri clutch if you want to keep playing with the 2250, and keep the silly top end. Maybe somebody else has a comment about that for larger tracks...for some reason I'm thinking Blair was running a Monster 2200 combo at NorCal Champs (though my memory is bad), so maybe he can chime in about that kind of power relative to NorCal's track.
08-20-2012 | 11:19 PM
#1704
Tech Master
iTrader: (63)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,098
I've asked about motors multiple times talking with KJ and others at NorCal. I was suggested a 1700 would be easier to deal with and still competitive, a 1900 would be a sweet spot, and 2050 would be more than most could use.
You might be able to keep it manageable by using the tekno electri clutch if you want to keep playing with the 2250, and keep the silly top end. Maybe somebody else has a comment about that for larger tracks...for some reason I'm thinking Blair was running a Monster 2200 combo at NorCal Champs (though my memory is bad), so maybe he can chime in about that kind of power relative to NorCal's track.
You might be able to keep it manageable by using the tekno electri clutch if you want to keep playing with the 2250, and keep the silly top end. Maybe somebody else has a comment about that for larger tracks...for some reason I'm thinking Blair was running a Monster 2200 combo at NorCal Champs (though my memory is bad), so maybe he can chime in about that kind of power relative to NorCal's track.
08-20-2012 | 11:23 PM
#1705
If I had issues with too much power, I'd turn down the current limit on the ESC and possibly mess with endpoints on the controller. Those might get you into a usable state while you figure out the best solution that you want to try.
08-21-2012 | 12:58 AM
#1706
Tech Champion
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,100
From: Brussels, Belgium
I wouldn't recommend a motor with too much torque or power on this car.
It's nervous, light, with massive steering. Better go with a reasonnable setup. I would say the sweetspot is around 1800kv in 4S, this buggy isn't made for power freaks IMO it needs the finger to go fast. S. Wartelle which is a good local driver tested it and said it's a car made for pilots, it can be tricky to drive so a too powerful motor wouldn't help at all
It's nervous, light, with massive steering. Better go with a reasonnable setup. I would say the sweetspot is around 1800kv in 4S, this buggy isn't made for power freaks IMO it needs the finger to go fast. S. Wartelle which is a good local driver tested it and said it's a car made for pilots, it can be tricky to drive so a too powerful motor wouldn't help at all
08-21-2012 | 01:02 AM
#1707
I wouldn't turn down the endpoints, that can cause your ESC to overheat.
If the only motor you have is too powerful even with gearing down you can turn down the max power on the ESC. But doing this will also take away your top speed. On big tracks I liked having the high top speed of the bigger motor but the smoother power band of the smaller motor. On the Castle ESC's you can manipulate the throttle curves like you can on the radio but with more options.
#1 is your standard linear throttle curve.
#2 is what it would look like if you applied exponential.
#3 is what I would do with a larger, faster motor. I set the curve options to linear, then click and move the point to around 80-90% max. What this does is allow the motor to feel slower everywhere in the power band, as if you were running a slower motor. But once your trigger hits that 80 or 90 percent mark, you have the top end that the big motor delivers. It kinda feels like a timing boost.
If the only motor you have is too powerful even with gearing down you can turn down the max power on the ESC. But doing this will also take away your top speed. On big tracks I liked having the high top speed of the bigger motor but the smoother power band of the smaller motor. On the Castle ESC's you can manipulate the throttle curves like you can on the radio but with more options.
#1 is your standard linear throttle curve.
#2 is what it would look like if you applied exponential.
#3 is what I would do with a larger, faster motor. I set the curve options to linear, then click and move the point to around 80-90% max. What this does is allow the motor to feel slower everywhere in the power band, as if you were running a slower motor. But once your trigger hits that 80 or 90 percent mark, you have the top end that the big motor delivers. It kinda feels like a timing boost.
08-21-2012 | 03:09 AM
#1709
I wouldn't recommend a motor with too much torque or power on this car.
It's nervous, light, with massive steering. Better go with a reasonnable setup. I would say the sweetspot is around 1800kv in 4S, this buggy isn't made for power freaks IMO it needs the finger to go fast. S. Wartelle which is a good local driver tested it and said it's a car made for pilots, it can be tricky to drive so a too powerful motor wouldn't help at all
It's nervous, light, with massive steering. Better go with a reasonnable setup. I would say the sweetspot is around 1800kv in 4S, this buggy isn't made for power freaks IMO it needs the finger to go fast. S. Wartelle which is a good local driver tested it and said it's a car made for pilots, it can be tricky to drive so a too powerful motor wouldn't help at all
If the guy says the car is a driver's car, it likely is
Paul
08-21-2012 | 05:04 AM
#1710
Well I just finished building the kit and all I can say is WOW! Rarely do I build a kit that goes together this precisely with such outstanding fit and finish.
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
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