2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-21-2012 | 10:59 AM
#1726
Yes, this would work for us as end users to do.
But I was trying to come up with something that wouldn't require more tools than suggested already in the manual, and that Tekno would be able to easily use with future versions of the kit. Even if they included some 1mm shorter screws, they'd be so close in length to the others that the average assembler wouldn't notice that difference when everything else is a much larger change in size.
But I was trying to come up with something that wouldn't require more tools than suggested already in the manual, and that Tekno would be able to easily use with future versions of the kit. Even if they included some 1mm shorter screws, they'd be so close in length to the others that the average assembler wouldn't notice that difference when everything else is a much larger change in size.
08-21-2012 | 11:05 AM
#1727
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 46
I just wanted to return to a prior issue folks found, which I had though I wasn't seeing during assembly, and then found out I was when assembly progressed further. The issue is the rubbing of the front carrier while turning fully, and how it would stick. It had been mentioned that you could ignore this, as it would work itself out, or dremel the carrier down a bit. I decided to take the carriers down a bit, but after I'd done so I thought about it a bit more and dug into the problem.
The reason I hadn't seen it earlier was because it isn't a molded part issue, the issue is that the very end of the screw acting as a pivot rod is sticking out of the end of the mold. This is easy to remedy by simply putting a small spacer/washer on the outside of the arm before putting the screw in, making the threaded end not stick out and not rub. I didn't test all the lengths, since I'd already taken plastic out of my carriers, but I'd bet just a 1mm plastic spacer would be enough thickness to fix this.
The reason I hadn't seen it earlier was because it isn't a molded part issue, the issue is that the very end of the screw acting as a pivot rod is sticking out of the end of the mold. This is easy to remedy by simply putting a small spacer/washer on the outside of the arm before putting the screw in, making the threaded end not stick out and not rub. I didn't test all the lengths, since I'd already taken plastic out of my carriers, but I'd bet just a 1mm plastic spacer would be enough thickness to fix this.
I built my desk and entertainment shelving at home so that you can't see any of the wiring at all.
08-21-2012 | 11:05 AM
#1729
08-21-2012 | 01:13 PM
#1730
Gear down, smaller pinion gear. But....
With the modern brusheless systems setting the EPA on the radio throttle isnt really that big of a deal. They are a 3 phase system that is basically always always switching from phase to phase to power the motor, even at full throttle. If you turn down the throttle epa it just limits how quickly the esc switches from phase to phase.
On the older brushed esc's at partial throttle they would basically be giving the full voltage to the brushed motor which was purely mechanically timed with the brushes and the armature and to give partial throttle it would switch that full power on and off really quickly inside the esc to pulse the full voltage and give the effect of partial throttle. That type of esc is most efficient when you run at full throttle and the esc never "switched on and off" The fets that do the switching get hot. The fets in a brushless system get hot also, but the system is designed to be switched on and off and it does even at full throttle so the efficiency gain from running full throttle on a brushed system is gone on a brushless system.
I still think proper gearing is the best solution, but setting the EPA is not really an issue like it was in the past.
With the modern brusheless systems setting the EPA on the radio throttle isnt really that big of a deal. They are a 3 phase system that is basically always always switching from phase to phase to power the motor, even at full throttle. If you turn down the throttle epa it just limits how quickly the esc switches from phase to phase.
On the older brushed esc's at partial throttle they would basically be giving the full voltage to the brushed motor which was purely mechanically timed with the brushes and the armature and to give partial throttle it would switch that full power on and off really quickly inside the esc to pulse the full voltage and give the effect of partial throttle. That type of esc is most efficient when you run at full throttle and the esc never "switched on and off" The fets that do the switching get hot. The fets in a brushless system get hot also, but the system is designed to be switched on and off and it does even at full throttle so the efficiency gain from running full throttle on a brushed system is gone on a brushless system.
I still think proper gearing is the best solution, but setting the EPA is not really an issue like it was in the past.
Houtz is correct about new and old ESC's, but it is still better to tame the power in other ways before you use the EPA.
08-21-2012 | 01:26 PM
#1731
When i was younger i used to pull out the interior of my car to wire up my stereo systems and neatly run the wires under the carpets. I was always this way. Im 35 now and still havent changed.
08-21-2012 | 01:32 PM
#1732
Tech Champion
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,100
From: Brussels, Belgium
I didn't want to make it sound too impressive 
I like Wartelle more for his passion than his skills, I had multiple occasions to drive with him in a race and I could see on his face how much he likes driving. I find this even more impressive than all his titles
08-21-2012 | 02:11 PM
#1733
08-21-2012 | 03:39 PM
#1738
Tech Addict
iTrader: (44)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 607
From: NE Ohio
We were pitted across the aisle from the Novak guys this past weekend and we looked at how the Active 8 system would mount up in the EB48. It might be possible, but long story short - the Active 8 system is too big. Some major cutting would have to be done, and even then, there's no guarantee it will fit.
I’m a little bummed because I bought the Active 8 based on the dimensions listed on A-main. I’ve only opened the box to take a look at everything and now it seems I’m going to be stuck with a brand new esc that isn’t going to fit. Nothing reflecting at all Tekno, it was the esc manufacture that incorrectly lists the dimensions.
08-21-2012 | 05:56 PM
#1739
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
I wonder if it would be possible to make an inclined esc mounting shelf out of kydex to clear the center driveshaft? Since my buggy is still in transit can someone give me an accurate measurement from the outside of the servo mount to the face of the motor mount. Also check the dimension from the driveshaft to the inside of the side guard.
I’m a little bummed because I bought the Active 8 based on the dimensions listed on A-main. I’ve only opened the box to take a look at everything and now it seems I’m going to be stuck with a brand new esc that isn’t going to fit. Nothing reflecting at all Tekno, it was the esc manufacture that incorrectly lists the dimensions.
I’m a little bummed because I bought the Active 8 based on the dimensions listed on A-main. I’ve only opened the box to take a look at everything and now it seems I’m going to be stuck with a brand new esc that isn’t going to fit. Nothing reflecting at all Tekno, it was the esc manufacture that incorrectly lists the dimensions.
08-21-2012 | 06:12 PM
#1740
