2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-20-2012 | 03:36 PM
#1682
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,181
Very happy with the car after our provincial final RC Pro series race. These are a few notes that hopefully some can find helpful:
1) This car has awesome off power steering. I wanted to plant the rear end a little more. Moving the rear shocks to the outermost hole on the arm did the trick.
2) The stock shock oils I found were too light for a large outdoor track and hot temps (86 degrees). I went up to 42.5f/32.5r (Associated) and was happy with the dampening after that.
3) The car is very light. Mine weighed in at 3350g with a Serpent body and wing, and 4100 Protek pack. I only put 2200mah back in the pack after a 10 minute run so I look forward to trying Protek's 3100mah 2s "sized" 4s pack.
4) I found a 17T pinion to be geared just about right with a 1900kv motor. I would be more happy with a 16.5T pinion.....lol. Maybe Tekno will come out with a 46T spur haha!
5) My lap times were just over a second faster than they were with my Kyosho (nitro) at 38.3 versus 39.4. This is about where I wanted it to be.
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:
- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
1) This car has awesome off power steering. I wanted to plant the rear end a little more. Moving the rear shocks to the outermost hole on the arm did the trick.
2) The stock shock oils I found were too light for a large outdoor track and hot temps (86 degrees). I went up to 42.5f/32.5r (Associated) and was happy with the dampening after that.
3) The car is very light. Mine weighed in at 3350g with a Serpent body and wing, and 4100 Protek pack. I only put 2200mah back in the pack after a 10 minute run so I look forward to trying Protek's 3100mah 2s "sized" 4s pack.
4) I found a 17T pinion to be geared just about right with a 1900kv motor. I would be more happy with a 16.5T pinion.....lol. Maybe Tekno will come out with a 46T spur haha!
5) My lap times were just over a second faster than they were with my Kyosho (nitro) at 38.3 versus 39.4. This is about where I wanted it to be.
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
08-20-2012 | 03:40 PM
#1683
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 761
From: Indianola, IA
Ouch!!! not bad considering the level of hit you described.
i must say it is great to read everyones input about the car and no negativity about tekno or the car(just ways to improve thru trial and error). too many times people come on and bash strait out the gate and blame when they shouldnt.
proud to be part of the tekno tribe!
i must say it is great to read everyones input about the car and no negativity about tekno or the car(just ways to improve thru trial and error). too many times people come on and bash strait out the gate and blame when they shouldnt.
proud to be part of the tekno tribe!
08-20-2012 | 03:54 PM
#1684
I didn't get a chance to look at all the cars at the nats but Danny said that pretty much all the pros were running dual shorty packs in their cars. The pack Danny is running now is basically shorty pack cells inside a standard case. Here's the pack Danny uses.
Holy crap, Danny did you see these packs!? I don't know about ten minutes but at the SDRC races they might work....
Holy crap, Danny did you see these packs!? I don't know about ten minutes but at the SDRC races they might work....
08-20-2012 | 04:00 PM
#1685
Very happy with the car after our provincial final RC Pro series race. These are a few notes that hopefully some can find helpful:
1) This car has awesome off power steering. I wanted to plant the rear end a little more. Moving the rear shocks to the outermost hole on the arm did the trick.
2) The stock shock oils I found were too light for a large outdoor track and hot temps (86 degrees). I went up to 42.5f/32.5r (Associated) and was happy with the dampening after that.
3) The car is very light. Mine weighed in at 3350g with a Serpent body and wing, and 4100 Protek pack. I only put 2200mah back in the pack after a 10 minute run so I look forward to trying Protek's 3100mah 2s "sized" 4s pack.
4) I found a 17T pinion to be geared just about right with a 1900kv motor. I would be more happy with a 16.5T pinion.....lol. Maybe Tekno will come out with a 46T spur haha!
5) My lap times were just over a second faster than they were with my Kyosho (nitro) at 38.3 versus 39.4. This is about where I wanted it to be.
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate! These are the steps I followed:
- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
1) This car has awesome off power steering. I wanted to plant the rear end a little more. Moving the rear shocks to the outermost hole on the arm did the trick.
2) The stock shock oils I found were too light for a large outdoor track and hot temps (86 degrees). I went up to 42.5f/32.5r (Associated) and was happy with the dampening after that.
3) The car is very light. Mine weighed in at 3350g with a Serpent body and wing, and 4100 Protek pack. I only put 2200mah back in the pack after a 10 minute run so I look forward to trying Protek's 3100mah 2s "sized" 4s pack.
4) I found a 17T pinion to be geared just about right with a 1900kv motor. I would be more happy with a 16.5T pinion.....lol. Maybe Tekno will come out with a 46T spur haha!
5) My lap times were just over a second faster than they were with my Kyosho (nitro) at 38.3 versus 39.4. This is about where I wanted it to be.
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
7) Finally, I broke my car horribly while catching the leader of the second triple A main. Two lapped cars were tangled on the face of the large triple on the track. I didn't see them until the last second and hit them HARD! A large crack was heard and the damage is visible in the picture below. Not a reflection of the cars durability as any buggy would be broken after a 35mph hit like that. This ended my chance of winning the weekend in E-buggy but a 4th place finish in the 45 minute nitro buggy A main was the highlight for me!
-Kane
Thanks so much for sharing your shock building method. Perhaps we'll include an alternate method in the instructions. Definitely more than one way to skin a cat. I know, I don't like cats. j/k
.
08-20-2012 | 04:05 PM
#1686
Tech Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,380
From: Norway
I've been using the LRP 65822 2 x 2S Lipo charging/balancing (EH style plug) harness to charge my dual 2S for my Serpent.
You can find it in most European hobby shops and on ebay.
Works great
I've labeled my batteries to ensure I always balance charge the same pair of batteries each time.
Never had a problem so far......balances out my dual Vampire 70C/6800mAh perfect each and every time
Bent
08-20-2012 | 04:09 PM
#1687
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
Tekno - I just went over to Tekin's site and then to Novak's to pull some dimensions.
According to what I read, the Tekin is 2.8" x 1.65" the Novak is 2.8" x 1.71"
Will the .06" difference really make it not fit? The two are almost identical in size and I see everyone running the Tekin with no issue.
According to what I read, the Tekin is 2.8" x 1.65" the Novak is 2.8" x 1.71"
Will the .06" difference really make it not fit? The two are almost identical in size and I see everyone running the Tekin with no issue.
08-20-2012 | 04:18 PM
#1688
Tech Master
iTrader: (72)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,218
From: SAN DIEGO
Well I just finished building the kit and all I can say is WOW! Rarely do I build a kit that goes together this precisely with such outstanding fit and finish.
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
08-20-2012 | 04:35 PM
#1689
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
I've been using the LRP 65822 2 x 2S Lipo charging/balancing (EH style plug) harness to charge my dual 2S for my Serpent.
You can find it in most European hobby shops and on ebay.
Works great
I've labeled my batteries to ensure I always balance charge the same pair of batteries each time.
Never had a problem so far......balances out my dual Vampire 70C/6800mAh perfect each and every time
Bent
You can find it in most European hobby shops and on ebay.
Works great
I've labeled my batteries to ensure I always balance charge the same pair of batteries each time.
Never had a problem so far......balances out my dual Vampire 70C/6800mAh perfect each and every time
Bent
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Align-JST-XH...item25744be7d7
08-20-2012 | 04:52 PM
#1690
Well I just finished building the kit and all I can say is WOW! Rarely do I build a kit that goes together this precisely with such outstanding fit and finish.
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
If I didn't know better, I would think this is not the company's first kit, but rather the latest in a long line of kits that have been almost perfected.
There was no hand fitting of the parts required, and the manual is very simple to understand. I built the shocks according to the manual and had no bleeding or leaking problems at all. The trick is to use a 12mm wrench or socket on the small cap and use your 17mm wheel nut wrench on the large cap and turn until both caps are tight.
I can't wait to get this car on the track tomorrow and do some testing. Thanks guys for designing a great car!
08-20-2012 | 04:53 PM
#1691
Tekno - I just went over to Tekin's site and then to Novak's to pull some dimensions.
According to what I read, the Tekin is 2.8" x 1.65" the Novak is 2.8" x 1.71"
Will the .06" difference really make it not fit? The two are almost identical in size and I see everyone running the Tekin with no issue.
According to what I read, the Tekin is 2.8" x 1.65" the Novak is 2.8" x 1.71"
Will the .06" difference really make it not fit? The two are almost identical in size and I see everyone running the Tekin with no issue.
08-20-2012 | 05:13 PM
#1692
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 46
I figured out my issue with the shocks. It was merely a case of not following directions. I used a wrench to tighten the caps but held the shock body with my bare hand. All I needed was another wrench. I put on my big boy pants and put some muscle into it. Problem solved.
08-20-2012 | 06:38 PM
#1693
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
08-20-2012 | 07:31 PM
#1694
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,298
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
3
Put the fat oring's on the shock collars and the thin on the caps. That might give you some better bladder seal. I haven't noticed any issues with leakage.
I have a lathe and mill and thought about it. What you would do is turn a sleeve to fit the cap out of aluminum. Then you'd slit it down one side with a slitting saw. Then you'd put the cap it the sleeve and clamp that in the lathe chuck. The thing is if you wanted to keep the o-rings you really only need to remove about .25-.5mm (.010" - .020"). That's a lot of work to remove that little bit of material. Just remove the o-ring and be done with it.
BTW: I did use the thinner o-rings on the shock body. The o-ring wound up under the cap instead between the cap and shock body.
BTW: I did use the thinner o-rings on the shock body. The o-ring wound up under the cap instead between the cap and shock body.
08-20-2012 | 07:40 PM
#1695
All this talk of using shorty lipos in the car to save weight. Whats the difference if you just use a regular 4s 3800-4000mah pack instead of the 2x shortys? Maybe being able to move the shortys forward and back for a different weight distribution. But I would think the flatter 4s pack would be a lower COG.
Man I am just tiptoeing on the fence with buying this car. Looks amazing. But, Im afraid i wont have anywhere to run it come October when the outdoor tracks all close for the season. The indoor track around here that was 1/8e friendly closed down and the other one big enough to run them has them running inside with the nitros instead of on electric day.... Choke on smoke
But damn. i want it.
Man I am just tiptoeing on the fence with buying this car. Looks amazing. But, Im afraid i wont have anywhere to run it come October when the outdoor tracks all close for the season. The indoor track around here that was 1/8e friendly closed down and the other one big enough to run them has them running inside with the nitros instead of on electric day.... Choke on smoke
But damn. i want it.