RC10B4.1 FT/WC
08-12-2012 | 08:13 PM
Wildcat -- Go back to the AE Pistons (what the manual states), 24mm Ride Height F/R, Switch to JC Groovy / Double Dee (green) tires, take the C Hub off and go back to the A with 1 washer on a standard brace, take the weight out of the front triangles, add at least 1 washer under the front ball stud, rear lower shock inside position. I also only tried the losi springs on my B4 at hobbytown once and went back to the regular brown/green setup. Never liked how they felt, switched to Kyosho springs (pink F/white R) and they were better, now i run Avid (Red F/Yellow R).
Oh and dont come out of the corner hard onto the straight. you need to roll onto the throttle, especially at CV.
Oh and dont come out of the corner hard onto the straight. you need to roll onto the throttle, especially at CV.
08-12-2012 | 08:14 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 550
From: Tacoma, wa
I assume I am having issues with pistons, oil and springs on my track. The car corners fine, but the lands and bumps make the car feel not very planted. Because the track has some hard landing jumps, I was thinking of going up in oil or spring. But the track is also rutted from the rain, so softer might be better for the corners. I am still diffing out down the straight. Maybe the hole shots are the issue. I can see one wheel rooster and the car hooks if i try to come out of the corner hard into the straight. I can only get to 3/4 throttle with a 10.5. Any thoughts?
Setup.
Front:
32.5 weight oil losi pink piston 3 limiters
orange losi BB spring
inside tower outside arm
camber inside inside.
0 deg toe and -1 camber
23mm ride height
AE Ribs (kit tires)
rear
27.5 oil 2 limiters losi pink piston
yellow losi BB spring
middle hub and inside camber
-1 deg camber
2 deg squat
3 deg toe in
hubs middle
C Hub
shaved brace no washers.
inside top and outside bottom shock
23mm right height
holeshot m3 kit tires.
zero deg rear hubs
worlds chassis
weights
1/4 each f/r triangle
avid rack
1/2 next to receiver near battery
rear AE ballast
Setup.
Front:
32.5 weight oil losi pink piston 3 limiters
orange losi BB spring
inside tower outside arm
camber inside inside.
0 deg toe and -1 camber
23mm ride height
AE Ribs (kit tires)
rear
27.5 oil 2 limiters losi pink piston
yellow losi BB spring
middle hub and inside camber
-1 deg camber
2 deg squat
3 deg toe in
hubs middle
C Hub
shaved brace no washers.
inside top and outside bottom shock
23mm right height
holeshot m3 kit tires.
zero deg rear hubs
worlds chassis
weights
1/4 each f/r triangle
avid rack
1/2 next to receiver near battery
rear AE ballast
08-12-2012 | 08:18 PM
hey man you may want to try raise the ride height first to see how the jumps feel, as you have it now i bet you corner great and with good speed but you may bottom out off of jumps you are very low to the ground so mayb try like 29 rear and 30-31 front, you will still have good steering with this and hopefully less bottom out if any at all if you downside em lol. you may also want to stiffen the rear oil just a tad like mayb 30 and place the shock in on the arm on the rear, this too will help in how the truck soak up bumps as well. idk what diff out means, if you tell me then mayb i can help cause i have had diff probs in the past bro and had to learn how to fix em over and over again the hard way dnt wnt that to happen to anyone else and good luck in ur tuning bro
08-12-2012 | 08:21 PM
hey man you may want to try raise the ride height first to see how the jumps feel, as you have it now i bet you corner great and with good speed but you may bottom out off of jumps you are very low to the ground so mayb try like 29 rear and 30-31 front, you will still have good steering with this and hopefully less bottom out if any at all if you downside em lol. you may also want to stiffen the rear oil just a tad like mayb 30 and place the shock in on the arm on the rear, this too will help in how the truck soak up bumps as well. idk what diff out means, if you tell me then mayb i can help cause i have had diff probs in the past bro and had to learn how to fix em over and over again the hard way dnt wnt that to happen to anyone else and good luck in ur tuning bro
08-12-2012 | 08:21 PM
No, it was the Air Force....I will be back for states in November.
But the weather is a whole lot nicer here. Everyday is about 65-70 degrees. I still like to check the weather in Tucson and Phoenix....get a good laugh when it's 110+.
But the weather is a whole lot nicer here. Everyday is about 65-70 degrees. I still like to check the weather in Tucson and Phoenix....get a good laugh when it's 110+.
08-12-2012 | 08:35 PM
Well, it is supposed to cool way down to 100 by Friday..
08-12-2012 | 09:00 PM
It's only gonna be a cool 114 tomorrow. Yeah, I'll be missing States again this year. It's always scheduled during my play time in the sand!
08-12-2012 | 09:24 PM
Here's how I finally got all of the slop out of my rear wheels. Yeah, I didn't have much, but all this business about tapping screws and whatnot seemed... excessive, and expensive. I figured it just needed the right shim and a simple way to keep the bearings captured.
On the hubs, where the pin goes through, I used a 3/16 axle shim (these are ridiculously thin), then a .030 alum washer, then the hub, then another .030 alum washer, and another 3/16 axle shim. After installing the pin and capture screw back in, there was no slop there. But, the bearing still allowed a little play. So I used blue painter's tape, wrapped it around the outside bearing only, trimmed it up with a razor, then tried to put it back in the hub. I had to peel away tape until the bearing was just able to be crammed back in there... there was only tape on about half of the bearing when I was able to get it to fit.
Now, the only minuscule amount of play, and it is virtually NOTHING, is in the axle pin attaching the rear ARM to the chassis. I could shim this away, I'm sure, but I don't want any binding at all there.
If you try this, and you still have slop, then it's not coming from the hubs/bearings - either you haven't assembled the CVA/CVD correctly, or your hexes are worn out, or your wheels are, or the holes in the arm where the pin goes through are messed up, or.... something!
If I could post a video, I would.. I may, if I figure that out.
But these suckers are rock solid now.
Funny, now the fronts, which seemed pretty good, are awful in comparison. Time to get out the shims....
On the hubs, where the pin goes through, I used a 3/16 axle shim (these are ridiculously thin), then a .030 alum washer, then the hub, then another .030 alum washer, and another 3/16 axle shim. After installing the pin and capture screw back in, there was no slop there. But, the bearing still allowed a little play. So I used blue painter's tape, wrapped it around the outside bearing only, trimmed it up with a razor, then tried to put it back in the hub. I had to peel away tape until the bearing was just able to be crammed back in there... there was only tape on about half of the bearing when I was able to get it to fit.
Now, the only minuscule amount of play, and it is virtually NOTHING, is in the axle pin attaching the rear ARM to the chassis. I could shim this away, I'm sure, but I don't want any binding at all there.
If you try this, and you still have slop, then it's not coming from the hubs/bearings - either you haven't assembled the CVA/CVD correctly, or your hexes are worn out, or your wheels are, or the holes in the arm where the pin goes through are messed up, or.... something!
If I could post a video, I would.. I may, if I figure that out.
But these suckers are rock solid now.
Funny, now the fronts, which seemed pretty good, are awful in comparison. Time to get out the shims....
