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Old 08-11-2012 | 09:00 AM
  #16516  
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Originally Posted by Bondo21d
OK, have a question about using the TLR1073 2mm aluminum trailing spindles. I have those on my buggy and it feels like thee is a ton of play in the front wheels. The entire front end feels kind of sloppy. I know there is a bit in the ball cups, but mostly, I am wondering if anyone has had any issues with a lot of side to side play in those spindles with stock axles and screws?

Also, I have the =1.5 rear hubs. they make the rear wide enough that the lock nuts that are stock do not engage the nylon. Is this normal, or what are people doing?
The play in the front end is most likely from the steering rack. It is ok for it to have some slop but if it is getting to bad just replace the rack and it should clean most of it up. I haven't used the +1.5 mm hexes but if the threads are not reaching the nylon you can try the serrated wheel nuts. That might keep them from backing out.
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Old 08-11-2012 | 09:08 AM
  #16517  
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ok i play in the street do i need to make it to mid motor if i do that i need a new esc i have a mmp with fan and its a tight fit in rear motor lay out.
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Old 08-11-2012 | 10:41 AM
  #16518  
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what is a good servo to run in the car is the savox low profile good choice 1251mg thanks guys
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Old 08-11-2012 | 11:40 AM
  #16519  
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Originally Posted by hitman72
what is a good servo to run in the car is the savox low profile good choice 1251mg thanks guys
I run the low profile Savox and it works great.. It gives you a little extra room as well.
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Old 08-11-2012 | 12:31 PM
  #16520  
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Originally Posted by RShockley
The play in the front end is most likely from the steering rack. It is ok for it to have some slop but if it is getting to bad just replace the rack and it should clean most of it up. I haven't used the +1.5 mm hexes but if the threads are not reaching the nylon you can try the serrated wheel nuts. That might keep them from backing out.
There is definitely some play in the steering rack, so that may need to be replaced. I believe it does have serrated wheel nuts. Thanks for the response.

I should have also been a bit more specific. There is definite side to side play with the axles sitting in the front hubs I had mentioned. Basically it feels like there needs to be a washer or a shim to make the bearings a bit wider to prevent the side to side movement of the wheels. Has anyone seen that?
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Old 08-11-2012 | 02:55 PM
  #16521  
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Hey guys,

Is anyone running any of the HR hop-ups looking at the 5* aluminum casters and the trailing spindles...maybe even the aluminum steering column...???

Thanks
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Old 08-11-2012 | 04:00 PM
  #16522  
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Originally Posted by Bondo21d
I should have also been a bit more specific. There is definite side to side play with the axles sitting in the front hubs I had mentioned. Basically it feels like there needs to be a washer or a shim to make the bearings a bit wider to prevent the side to side movement of the wheels. Has anyone seen that?
Try placing a ball stud washer (~.5mm thick, alum or steel) between the axle screw head and the bearing. This should eliminate all side play in the axle.


Last edited by Mike Mellin; 08-11-2012 at 04:17 PM. Reason: added diagram
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Old 08-11-2012 | 06:16 PM
  #16523  
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who makes the best titanium turnbuckles?
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Old 08-11-2012 | 06:18 PM
  #16524  
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Originally Posted by secretboy
who makes the best titanium turnbuckles?
Lunsford is the standard.
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Old 08-12-2012 | 06:34 AM
  #16525  
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Who makes a good under chassis protector?
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Old 08-12-2012 | 08:52 AM
  #16526  
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So my diff was slipping yesterday so I tried to tighten it 1/8 of a turn. The screw going through the ball diff snapped!

Has anyone had this happen to them?

I bought the buggy used (ran for less than 5 minutes total)...

Thinking that I'll probably go with the gear diff simply because it's less maintenance
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Old 08-12-2012 | 08:59 AM
  #16527  
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
So my diff was slipping yesterday so I tried to tighten it 1/8 of a turn. The screw going through the ball diff snapped!

Has anyone had this happen to them?

I bought the buggy used (ran for less than 5 minutes total)...

Thinking that I'll probably go with the gear diff simply because it's less maintenance
Whenever I buy something used I go through the entire car because you don`t know how well the previous owner took care of it . Get a rebuild kit , build it and break it in correctly and you will be good for a while .
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Old 08-12-2012 | 10:08 AM
  #16528  
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Originally Posted by Briguy
Whenever I buy something used I go through the entire car because you don`t know how well the previous owner took care of it . Get a rebuild kit , build it and break it in correctly and you will be good for a while .
I did that and the diff felt nice and smooth so I left it assuming it would hold up.

Does the rebuild kit come with carbide balls or the super soft "stock" ones?
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Old 08-12-2012 | 10:39 AM
  #16529  
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
I did that and the diff felt nice and smooth so I left it assuming it would hold up.

Does the rebuild kit come with carbide balls or the super soft "stock" ones?
I would buy a Bfast kit , I ran a long time on the stock supposed "soft" diff balls .
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Old 08-12-2012 | 12:38 PM
  #16530  
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Originally Posted by Briguy
I would buy a Bfast kit , I ran a long time on the stock supposed "soft" diff balls .
The Bfast kit doesn't come with a new screw and would cost more than getting a RTR gear diff with my HT discount.

I think I'm going to get the gear diff and run it and in the future once I've dialed in my 22 some I'll rebuild/upgrade my ball diff and see how I like it compared to a sealed gear.
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