1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
08-09-2012, 07:19 AM
08-09-2012, 07:22 AM
You got it man...
08-09-2012, 11:13 AM
To me it depend on your radio. I had the same servo and i trade it cause it did not full lock on the left side and i try everthing to fix that and i could not get it right. My 4pk eta only goes to 120 m11x goes to 150 eta. So i got a futaba 9451 servo and that fix it.
08-09-2012, 11:46 AM
Second its very easy to drive, the long chassis lets a intermediate racer like myself work on tuning a car and becoming a better driver. I started with the B4 and ended up with a very twitchy buggy that felt like it was hard to drive. Almost not even fun. I also broke my fair share of parts. Don't get me wrong each car has its advantages but for me the ease of driving, a very durable buggy and a platform that teaches you how small changes can make a big difference in handling is why I choose a 22.
The platform rocks, since I also have a 22T and a 22 SCT on preorder.
08-09-2012, 12:45 PM
a good driver can win with any buggy. 22b ususlly gets smoked at my track by the b4.1 but thats because the fastest guys run them. but it always goes both ways. i see 22 winning too
08-09-2012, 01:13 PM
I agree with you for the most part but only 4 or 5 guys run the 22. So there are way more B4.1's...
08-09-2012, 03:13 PM
I'MDUMB!!
Okay, stupid question for you guys!! I replaced (or tried to replace) the slow Hitec 965 servo that my buggy came with for a JR9000s servo....when I put the new servo in, the aluminum arm hits the bar coming back from the bulkhead that sits on top of the servo mounts. 
It will turn left just fine, but it won't let it turn right at all. Is there a trick to mounting servos in the 22B or a certain angle the servo horn needs to be at? Any help is appreciated!! Thanks!!! 
It will turn left just fine, but it won't let it turn right at all. Is there a trick to mounting servos in the 22B or a certain angle the servo horn needs to be at? Any help is appreciated!! Thanks!!!
08-09-2012, 03:30 PM
Use the servo shims and shim it so it doesn't hit. The manual will give some recommendations for servo brands but you still might have to vary the shimming slightly.
08-09-2012, 03:53 PM
Okay. It said 0mm shim for JR servos, but I'll play around with it
08-09-2012, 05:02 PM
question got the 25* brass plate and the aluminum front camber holder as well as the aluminum front pivot.....my question is when i take the front end apart will it be as simple as replacing parts or do i need to know something specific?
Thanks
Thanks
08-09-2012, 05:16 PM
direct fit.. but recheck your ride height and you'll be golden
08-09-2012, 09:28 PM
08-10-2012, 10:54 AM
i must say adding the aluminum up front adds some good weight up there can wait to adjust to the track on sunday!!!!
08-10-2012, 09:54 PM
have any of you guys tried the new D3.5 17.5 motor in blinky yet? What gearing did you find it ran best at??
08-11-2012, 08:02 AM
OK, have a question about using the TLR1073 2mm aluminum trailing spindles. I have those on my buggy and it feels like thee is a ton of play in the front wheels. The entire front end feels kind of sloppy. I know there is a bit in the ball cups, but mostly, I am wondering if anyone has had any issues with a lot of side to side play in those spindles with stock axles and screws?
Also, I have the =1.5 rear hubs. they make the rear wide enough that the lock nuts that are stock do not engage the nylon. Is this normal, or what are people doing?
Also, I have the =1.5 rear hubs. they make the rear wide enough that the lock nuts that are stock do not engage the nylon. Is this normal, or what are people doing?