Anyone tried these yet?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Hub-Carrier

They're already tapped for locking onto the hinge pin, use the larger outer bearing and have three different vertical mounting locations for the ball stud. Infinite adjust-ability in hub carrier ball end height. And they are cheaper than the AE units. The question is the fit of the bearings. I agree, if I'm paying $30 for hub carriers I don't want to have to shoe-goo my bearings in and drill and tap holes. I like to tinker but I'd rather have to tinker with the $3.89 plastic GT2 hubs than the $30 aluminum ones.

You are right, I'm not saying they don't produce more traction, but what I'm trying to say is that it is a Band-aide for suspension that isn't adequate. Whether that be that they are not tuned or simply can't be tuned right due to the limitations of current RC shock designs.

I think that there is also a difference in what you can feel, and what actually produces noticably better lap times. For example, I can see the results in terms of lap times when raising or lowering my rear inner ballstud height. But, if I went and changed my front top plate from plastic to carbon, I might feel a slight difference but the differnence is so small that it is negligable.

I agree. For the level of most of the racers and bashers on here asking questions a basic answer is better than a detailed technical answer.

Problem is if you currently use the c hub you'll need access to a mill to use these hubs to get the ball stud in the right location

they dont make a zero degree version. only reason I didnt order some. I was also unsure it was the same as the C hub with no hub washers.

Noob question here. Is anti-squat when you add the mm washers under the front an rear ball studs. If not what is that called?

ackerman question:

less Ackermann
more aggressive steering
harder to drive

more Ackermann
less aggressive steering
easier to drive

Ackermann is a term describing the effect of the inside front wheel turning tighter than the outside front wheel.

More Ackermann means the inside wheel is turning in a tighter arc.
You change Ackermann settings in the RC10B4.1 buggy by moving the connection from the current holes (standard Ackermann) to the lower holes

so looking at the steering column on the B4 from a top view, is less ackerman moving the screws towards the rear? or is it more?

it is the plastic piece under the toe in block

Why is that? You think the top flange surface is higher than the holes on the C hub? That would suck. If its lower, you would just shim up to the level of either the A/B or C hubs.

Yeah, I wasn't thrilled with 1° hubs either. Dropping your hinge pin toe in block down a degree does not represent an equal exchange. Why wouldn't they make these in 0° and 0.5° with some different colors?? Hey! Racers Edge! Throw us a bone here!!!!

less anti-squat
more side traction in corners
more rear traction for slick or bumpy surfaces

more anti-squat
less side traction in corners
more rear lift in jumps

Anti-squat denotes the angle of the rear arms relative to the chassis, when looked at from the side.
0 deg. anti-squat means that the rear arms are flat, parallel with the chassis. 2 deg. anti-squat means the front of
the rear arms are creating a 2 deg. angle to the chassis.

Change anti-squat by placing
shims underneath the front of the rear arm mounts, angling them higher.

Then what is it called when you add washers under the front and rear ball studs? Does it not have a name?

Good question, I would like to know which is which aslo man

thats camber link.
I bought this...great aid: team associated rc cheat sheets from Smashwords

Everything you said is correct.

But I guess I wouldn't say that less ackerman is harder to drive, but I just think of it as twitchier off center. The only section of the track where it is harder to drive I think is usually at the end of the straight because the car is so responsive off-center. This can cause you too turn in too early if you are not used to it, or in really high bite tracks if you turn-in too fast you can traction roll. But everywhere else on the track less ackerman makes the car feel more precise and it is really nice, especially coming onto the straight where the car can keep hugging the pipe on corner exit.

More ackerman, makes it easier to throw the car into the corner and steer from the rear as opposed to having the front do all the work.

On most indoor clay tracks I would suggest running the rear rack location, which is less ackerman. It is definitely an underated tuning option since most people obsess over shocks a little too much.