You need to check ROAR again cus that rule was changed & now you can cut the proper scribe vent locations on the body...

BTW

Don't really need to vent body for West Coast

yea factory marked ones correct ?

i have a ford raptor body and it doesnt have marked holes for the windshield and i put holes in it like almost everyone does.


and regardless, their rules said nothing about this till yesterday.a day from the race.

personally ?
feel its a smart rule change & it makes um happy now we R cut-n & grinding little vent holes for hours ..

4 score and 7 years ago, ROAR only allowed you to cut holes where the body manufacturer scribed lines....which is why Losi put circles in the windows of the XXX-SCT stock body......

Now, if ROAR is letting you cut them where you want, the go for it....

Worst case scenario, I always say (and have argued to a victory) that the edges of the front window (or side windows, but not both) ARE scribe lines.....cut out the whole freaking window and you will have almost no parachute effect.....

Don't cut too much though....I have a body with the front and side windows both cut, and the A pillars don't last long!!!!

you're welcome....

holy smokes... not only can I understand what WC is saying, but I also agree with him!

Shim them from day 1, and the inserts hardly wear enough to warrant the bearing mod....

if you DON't shim them from Day 1, and you have extra bearings of the right size, the bearing mod is a GREAT fix so that you don't have to buy a whole new diff case/diff kit.

4 posts in a row.....man, I must really love to hear myself talk!


Novarossi Challenge in Winnipeg this weekend.... even managed to get Billy Easton from Team Serpent to come spend the weekend with us.

Biggest single class so far is 4x4 SCT.... but only 2 AE trucks, including mine! I'll do my best!

Buggy and truggy was split between intermediate and expert.....otherwise buggy would be the big class..... I think 60% of the buggies and truggies running here are Novas, and more than half of those were modded by the Nitro Jedi @ Clockwork Racing, Neal Smith.

Come check it out!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/canadian...aug-3-5-a.html

Blue
gona have to make a "quad triple post" & fill the whole page for the record .....

Best of luck Blue this wk -n

Thanks Man!

Gotta represent Team Associated!

2wd SCT, I'm the only SC10
4wd SCT, out of 20, there is only 1 other SC104x4
Nitro Buggy....through both Expert and Intermediate, there are 24 entries....only 2 RC8 buggies...

Running an SC10 2wd, LRP Sphere, LRP 8.5 Octa, Savox 1251 servo
SC10 4x4, Tekin RX8 + SC4x 5.5T with Garodiscs and a Savox 1258 servo
RC8.2, Futaba servos, and a Clockwork Racing Buggy mod Novarossi P5XLT

Should be a GREAT weekend!

2wd SCT will be especially fun! It's Manitoba vs. Saskatchewan, with a 3-on-3 grudge match! This is the Banjo Bowl all over again!

This belt any good? Never had an issue with the stocker but kevlar belt sounds awesome lol.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associa...item5199c4e6cc

So I replace the stk washers under the sun gear with the xray washers and do i also remove the washer on the outside of the diff between the bearing and the diff like Wild Cherry said or no? Haven't built the kit yet so do I need to do the shim mod now or wait till the diff wears in? Steering rack I heard was weak and should be upgraded. any thoughts on this or no. Gonna be running a JR9100 servo in it

If running .5mm take out the outside washer. Otherwise run .3mm with it in.

You'll feel if it's to tight or a bit loose, build it dry, do it up and pull and push on the outdrives while turning them to see if there is slack or loads of friction. Shim accordingly, with or without outdrive shim if necessary.

On the building of the trans case the manual shows one way and the video on the associated site shows the idler gear and diff gear in opposite of the manual. Which way should it be or does it not matter. Thanks for the response to my questions. Very appreciated

no prob. I'll let you guys know how it works out. Maybe even get you WC to buy one LOL

I was having that issue, exotek chassis but it was inside the receiver case. Took it out, put it on top the receiver case and no issues afterwards.


For the flotek body, do you guys cut out those front two recessed areas on the hood of the body? I am wondering if that would help with the nose up issue I have on this one jump. catching too much air there.