What the heck is that?

Forever Alone

I am sure you will have fun and enjoy the experience. And get a tee shirt. lol

wild cat the harder springs in the rear help becouse the rear is rolling to much soft and hard dont mean shit if the ballints is off i have blue f spring on the rear of myn i let one of the buggy guys dive it at the track 2 days ago and he siad it drove like his buggy

if i could get the slipper to be consistant all my problems wood be salved

I thought my truck felt better with blue fronts in the rear. But everyone at the track told me I needed to roll more in the corners and to take them off, so I did, but i dont think it was better, maybe worse.

That's because this truck naturally feels like you driving a 2wd. It's the only 4x4 that feels like it. it's not your spring combo

Better than many with no respect ...

not my 1st big race many over gosh the 20 years ive been doing this. fun is what its all about.

it has nuthing to do with it being like a 2wheeler that is only becose of the decupld stilper and the clicker balints is balint if you take your car and take a long rod and put it under you car and move it tell the car balintes on the rod and mark that point that is the balints point now that the body off use a pointed tool to press on that point from the top of the chasee if both the front and bake tuch the grond at the same time it is balintsed if not the part that tuches first is to soft or the other end is to hard you dont tune the cornering with springs thats what roll bars are for and roll center

I think there are a few people that have tried the aluminum differential and for the most part the feedback has not been very good. I think there is an old post from symnicon (or something like that, I don't remember his name) and he said it was okay.

Against the recommendation of many I gave the aluminum differential a try. The main reason was to reduce the number/frequency of differential rebuilds. Specifically, to reduce the leaking. I ran about 6 packs through the first time and the screws started to back out of the diff. I didn't get enough thread lock on them. I rebuilt it and applied more thread lock. I ran about another 8 packs through and the diff started to get notchy even though the screws were not coming loose. I don't remember how much I shimmed it, but I'll look. I did shim it more than the stock .02mm.

After running the 8 packs through it barely leaked so that was promising, but the fact it started to become notchy wasn't so promising. I’m headed to the track tonight and didn’t want to risk an issue with it so I put a regular differential back in. I may try the aluminum again.

HUH??

if i had the camra i would show you

old guy are you runing any waght in you truck and are you using stick or sadle pac 540 or 550 al this make a diferints on the balint my truck is about 45f/55/ all most 50/50 so if you look at the botom of the chase there are 2 holes the mount the esc tray and in the midle is a mold mark my balints point is at the mold mark press on the mold mark from the top and the springs compress = front and rear with stock springs the rear will tuch first

evil check your sale page