huh? I thought he went short in the rear.

I tried kinwalds setup, it had too much steering for me.

Not running the 8 mm mod, 2 mm spacers right now, LHS does not have the 12 mm ball studs, Blue front spring in the rear, rear toe is 3-3, 1-2 degree of camber in

Have you tried the long wheel base in the rear?

It distributes power front to back as a differential would, it does not slip as a slipper would.
That's why the scte has so much more punch or drive out of a tight corner leading up to a triple. The scte is not slipping, its putting 100% of the power somewhere.
You can adjust how loose your diff is (like going to a thinner fluid in a gear diff) or tight it feels (like going to a thicker diff fluid) with the number of pins in use.

Have had the C-Diff for months and the balls look new still. I pull it to clean & relube every couple of drives or so. Takes about 10 minutes.

I have seen more benefit from it on an outdoor track compared to the super tacky indoor clay that I drive on. But there was a huge difference to me. It was almost like driving a different truck and I had to get used to how it drove, took me a couple pacs of slower lap times and then I was running two seconds faster from the past few weeks of that tracks configuration 25 second average time to a 23 second average time.

Oh yes, anybody tried Brian kinwalds setup yet?? I believe the setup sheet may be missing a technical note or two...
Camber links too long to work if you are running the 8mm mod. Screwing too far into the ballcups, pushing into center, causing ball cups to bind and not move freely while on stud...
I discovered this when trying to adjust ride height, suspension was binding and not moving freely.
We found you either need a shorter link. Cut it or fork over some $$ for shorter ones.

Quick question, is it a bad thing if the front wheels are putting down more power then the rear? ;-)

I just cut about 2mm off of each end of the rod...good 2 go

yeah im over here at ocrc most of the time.. i dont think i need the center diff.. will the coupler do the same thing?

it definitely looks funny, lol.

no, not the same thing. The exotek ALWAYS put power to the front, on the rear changes with the slipper. There is no transition of power back and forth. All it does is allow the front to pull the rear, instead of the rear pushing the front.

I didnt actually run into this problem which leaves me wondering if I missed something. I did like the set up as I ran it at WCRC and it worked well for me. But the binding and not moving freely on the ballstud on the camber links is something I didnt notice

I noticed it on one side of the truck. I must have slightly more camber on that side.

anyone? lol

If you used the standard rear camber rod for the back and adjusted the ball ends to fit as the set-up show's ?

Check inside the ball cups, will show a small round dent on the inside where the camber rod punch though ....

Solution

buy shorter camber rod or trim & some new ball cups ....