My servo horn got destroyed after my first pack. Track is rough and jumps are big so its no surprise. The plastic nuts on both front and rear shock towers are crazy. I didnt even put them in. I went straight to stainless steel.

Does anyone know where I can get an alu servo steering linkage? I tried one servo horn, but with the locknut, it gets in the way of the front chassis brace.

OK, for the latest and greatest info about the Serpent buggy, search on posts from these users:

- me (duh!)
- Frank L (super duh!)
- weavty1 (like omg duh!)
- porkchop (rip)

If I missed you, please forgive me!

yeah, the stock servo horn is not hardcore enough, the Hot Bodies one, is perfect! There are pics in this thread, not that long to search through and find examples of nutz used.

_

Thanks Frank L. for the response.

Appreciated.

Nog.

The O ring behind the large internal gears of the diffs are seated because of the washer, when I'll install the new gears that do not require the washers, won't it get in trouble with the details of the gear (on the reverse side) ?

Hope I am clear enough

Nog.

They might be like the Losi ones that are flat on the back side. (no cavities), that way nothing gets hung up on the o-rings.

I agree and cannot tell you how much I appreciate all of the information that is in this thread. I'm getting my kit on Monday and am very excited to get started on building. I know that the information in here will be invaluable so again, thank you.

I actually have a document on my computer of stuff I have been copying from this thread to keep in mind when I'm building. As an aside why is there not a feature on this forum (or is there and I don't know about it?) which allows you to save specific posts for later reference. Like thread subscriptions but for just one post. I would love a feature like that.

Oh yeah A HUGE +1 on an alum servo horn. I stripped 2 or 3 of the plastic ones. Wish I had gone alum from the start. http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/ sells the alum steering linkage but the horn is all that is needed. The Serpent and Hot Bodies both work nice.

On another note, my new Orion 2100kv motor showed up today, this thing looks nice. Much better build quality then my Tekin 1900. Nice durable looking posts. My posts on all my Tekins broke. And the end bell appears to be held on by screws, instead of pressed and glued like the Tekins.
The real test comes on the track, can't wait to run some laps

Im in love with my Serpent!!

Orion's are super smooth motors. Now the screws that hold downs the end bell have been known to back out and cause the can to rip apart from the end bell. I have had this issue my self as well as 3 other local guys. I would take all the screws out and put thread lock. The other solution would be to get a 3mm tap and put a 3mm x 2.5mm crew. The stock screws are way to thin for the abuse they take.

Thanks ! make a lot of sense.

Why is there a difference between building a Truggy diff and a Buggy diff ?
The buggy diff (on the right) the oil is filled just over the shafts and the Truggy diff (on the left) the oil is filled just over the gears.
Which way is the right way ?

Why do guys use the v2 rear carriers? What's the difference?

The V2 front and rear hubs have bigger bearings on the outside. Standard 8x16s which hold up much better than the previous flanged 8x14s.

A short update of the "impossible" modification.
The esc is still in one piece.
The esc without fan is at maximum 160F after 20 min.
It works perfect with a "ordinary" servo arm in alu.
Very clean layout with low CG.
The battery trays can be run very "cutout" when using a alu brace
and works pretty good with a "shaved" original "lid".
The race ready weight is 3489grams (7.68pounds) Yes, a couple of options as well... ;o)


What more can be said. A very good car thats as durable as the Mugen one. With better handling